Kuhn Global 'Death Star II'

<div class='quotetop'>(Hand Solo @ Jul 9 2006, 10:59 AM) [snapback]1277291[/snapback]</div>
Then it becomes a matter of artistic preference and a question for Kurt if he wants his build 'bass-ackwards' or as it appears in film.

Kurt?

[/b]


Hmmmm... I would prefer it the same as the Studio Model,.. but I will defer to artist license on this one. Maybe take a poll. What does everyone think on this matter?

A.) Orientation as seen in the film

B.) Orientation as the actual Studio Model

I look forward to reading the results...
 
Here's why I voted for film orientation and maybe PH will agree with me:

Almost everyone you'll eventually show the KuhnStar to who has SEEN ROTJ at least once will say, " Hey man? Why is that ball bass-ackwards? " :p
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Hand Solo @ Jul 10 2006, 01:50 AM) [snapback]1277589[/snapback]</div>
Here's why I voted for film orientation and maybe PH will agree with me:

Almost everyone you'll eventually show the KuhnStar to who has SEEN ROTJ at least once will say, " Hey man? Why is that ball bass-ackwards? " :p
[/b]


I do agree...

Normally I go for the full on studio model reolica, mounting joints, port covers, extreme weatheing and all...

This one -- eh, few people outside our circle know it was flopped, and would -- in fact -- scratch their heads...

Alternative: Build as it WAS built, and display in in front of a really big mirror. ;)
 
^ Possible. Still will invite questions. Maybe that's no big deal and my own bias is showing.

Bottomline is that no matter how I or anyone else feels, I WILL be building it to Kurt's preferences and specifications.

We'd both like very much to have as many others weigh in with their opinions on this project as well, nevertheless.

So please, anyone reading who is interested....don't clam up. Let us know what you think.

Thanks.
 
Here's a thumbnail of how I'm planning the armature construction, lighting and cooling.

KuhnStarIIsm.jpg


Link to full size drawing.

The light box will be concealed by the deck details. At first, I was thinking along the lines of having a section of these removeable to change out the CFL, but then I hit upon the idea of having the Superlaser dish itself act as the access.

CFLs last a long time and...I will be able to experiment with different wattages by changing out different brightnesses as necessary. Cooling will be accomplished by a muffin fan installed in the light box. Ventilation holes will be concealed throughout the deck structures. 'Exhaust ports', anyone? :D
 
Kewl... I appreciate the effort you placing into Mr. Hand (Mr. Han...DUDE..lol)...lol.

Maybe the rolling base can be made to look like the planet Endor so as not to see the wheels? (you can fix it... your dad is a TV repair man...lol). Sorry,.. just jumped back a bit to the first Sean Penn days...lol.

Quick question... does anyone have an image of what the OTHER SIDE of the DS II looks like?
 
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Maybe the rolling base can be made to look like the planet Endor so as not to see the wheels?[/b]

Yes. We order TWO plexi hemispheres for sure then. And at Christmas time, you can use a tree skirt.. :D

A cheaper alternative is for me to clad the base with sheet material and give it some kind of 'Industrial Boilerplate' look.

If we go with the Endor motif, I can reverse-paint the inside of the hemisphere like an art-neuveau lampshade. Maybe light that as well.

It's your call.
 
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Quick question... does anyone have an image of what the OTHER SIDE of the DS II looks like?[/b]

This last is VERY important for two reasons:

1. I need to know how much plexi I will need to order. Whether one or two hemispheres for the KuhnStar itself and possibly a third for the base.

2. I want to replicate, as close as possible, the breakup pattern of the outer hull-shell. The image of Bill George is helpful for the southern hemisphere, but the northern hemisphere is still a bit of a mystery. Detective work with existing references are a help, but any images of the back of the station will reduce my margin of error significantly.
 
I just scanned in a quick 'surface block' test I did on a piece of cardboard.
The cardboard is roughly 7 inches by 4 inches and the surface detail is approximately the size it will be on the actual model.

The colors aren't final and the details were done rather hastily. First I painted the base coat, then masked off for the darker blocks. Then I removed the masks.

Using a steel ruler and a dental scribe, I scribed off the darker gray to reveal the base color underneath. I then added pencil lines using the same ruler and then used weathering pastels to give tone variation.

The final product is will be much more carefully done, but I'm very happy with these preliminary results. I KNOW now without a doubt that I can not only do this...but I can DO IT WELL and have it look as it should.

KuhnStarsurfaceblocktestsm.jpg


Link to full resolution scan.

I know this works because when I view it from a distance or zoom out on this scan, I've achieved the required scale effect.

Again, this is ONLY the first surface test.
 
Thank you.

It's a very useful test for a couple of reasons:

1. It shows that these results can be achieved with simple techniques.

2. It gives us an idea of the level of detail your Death Star will have. Your requirement is that people need to be able to see fine detail from an inch away. Well, that's the basis I'll be working under for the whole project.

I put this test together in about an hour and a half. Most of that was waiting for the paints to dry.
 
Yup... detail is everything. As I have always stated... right up your alley.

OK Bob.... now it's time ...for you... to go... on vacation. ;)

Rest fast. Have fun.

ENJOY my friend.
 
I'll see you all in a couple of weeks. Then it is time to GET IT ON.

You know? I look at that test and I'm tempted to go into Photoshop and comp in a whole bunch of TIE fighters flying in formation. :D
 
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