Well I know there was a thread already started on this subject, but all the pics are gone. Since I had to destroy my blaster to get a replacement from being defective. I thought I could post some pics and pointers about the gun. Although I have to give thanks and credit to Sidewinder, and others for their very useful posts!
First put some tape around the barrel tip, to prevent damage. You may even want to put some tape, or cardboard in between the plate behind the barrel also. Then use pliers, and or screwdriver to pry the tip away from top section
The front section will pull away with needle nose pliers, just be sure to put tape over the flat section outlined in red. The blue outlines are where the glue has been applied
You need a flathead scewdriver, wraped with some tape to prevent damage, and pry in between the top and bottom section. do not pry from the inside edge! The side of the top section will crack!
After some wiggling and pring in an upward motion, you may or may not hear a snaping noise. This is where the parts are seperating, or breaking!
If you look in the back of the top and bottom section, you will see it is glued in place. There are also pegs from the middle of the bottom section, that glue into the top half as well. These are indicated in red!
You have to be carefull, and pay attention to the wires, they are of a small gauge, and they will snap very easily, when taking the gun apart.
The inside electronic's are held in place with an easy to remove glue ( more like a glue gun was used ). Here are some pics of the inside and disassembly.
Top half, switch facing you
Oh! I loved this! they twisted the wires together, no soldering!. Then wraped it with masking tape!
The front Led is held in place with removable glue. The plastic Led holder can be replaced with a metal one....It would look alot better!
Remove the glue (outlined in red) from the top of this piece, and you can remove the trigger. Which is basically, plastic and a spring. The ammo count switch is glued on top of the trigger (outlined in blue)
Removeing the circuit board is easy. It is held in by removable glue, just watch out for the lens, and lens cover. Once again the wires are of a small gauge, so they can break very easy! You also have to be carefull not to crack the board getting it out. So remove all glue first!
The battery discharge problem can be easily fixed by jumping a wire between Sw1, and Sw2 on the circuit board. Then just run the switch between the battery and circuit board! Easy fix!
For some reason they put the switch between the leds, turning them off and on. But, the power was still going to the circuit board, causing the batteries to go dead! So buy bridging the switch wires together, this completes the circuit. Now a switch is placed between the board and the batteries, causing all power from going to the board when turned off. Then when the switch is turned on, the power flows to the circuit, and we have light!
Here's a pic of where the wire's are jumped on the board. The yellow line indicates where the wires would be jumped.
Wireing the switch between the batteries. Be sure to add a little extra wire, you may need putting it all back together.
Well that's about it! Bare in mind I would not have taken this apart, nor tried to fix it. If I did not get a replacement! so that's why I layed this all out. Maybe someone can use the info.
That being said, Don't cry to me if you pry your gun apart, and screw it up!!! That's on You!!!!
Oh! I almost forgot! You guy's would'nt want to see it in pieces would you?
Well...O.k.
There ya go! and please don't P.M. me about giving you the broken pieces, cause that gun no longer exsists.........
Or does it?
Lets just say I'm good with glue, the right putty, and paint...not tryin to brag...but their's no way I was going to throw those pieces in the trash!
Hopefully, someone found this helpfull! Sorry for bad grammer and spelling, but I was in a hurry to post, and well, my grammer sucks!
Oh! and in a few weeks I may (MAY!) do some pricing on machined Barrels, and front plate pieces. I just have to see what time provides me.
First put some tape around the barrel tip, to prevent damage. You may even want to put some tape, or cardboard in between the plate behind the barrel also. Then use pliers, and or screwdriver to pry the tip away from top section
The front section will pull away with needle nose pliers, just be sure to put tape over the flat section outlined in red. The blue outlines are where the glue has been applied
You need a flathead scewdriver, wraped with some tape to prevent damage, and pry in between the top and bottom section. do not pry from the inside edge! The side of the top section will crack!
After some wiggling and pring in an upward motion, you may or may not hear a snaping noise. This is where the parts are seperating, or breaking!
If you look in the back of the top and bottom section, you will see it is glued in place. There are also pegs from the middle of the bottom section, that glue into the top half as well. These are indicated in red!
You have to be carefull, and pay attention to the wires, they are of a small gauge, and they will snap very easily, when taking the gun apart.
The inside electronic's are held in place with an easy to remove glue ( more like a glue gun was used ). Here are some pics of the inside and disassembly.
Top half, switch facing you
Oh! I loved this! they twisted the wires together, no soldering!. Then wraped it with masking tape!
The front Led is held in place with removable glue. The plastic Led holder can be replaced with a metal one....It would look alot better!
Remove the glue (outlined in red) from the top of this piece, and you can remove the trigger. Which is basically, plastic and a spring. The ammo count switch is glued on top of the trigger (outlined in blue)
Removeing the circuit board is easy. It is held in by removable glue, just watch out for the lens, and lens cover. Once again the wires are of a small gauge, so they can break very easy! You also have to be carefull not to crack the board getting it out. So remove all glue first!
The battery discharge problem can be easily fixed by jumping a wire between Sw1, and Sw2 on the circuit board. Then just run the switch between the battery and circuit board! Easy fix!
For some reason they put the switch between the leds, turning them off and on. But, the power was still going to the circuit board, causing the batteries to go dead! So buy bridging the switch wires together, this completes the circuit. Now a switch is placed between the board and the batteries, causing all power from going to the board when turned off. Then when the switch is turned on, the power flows to the circuit, and we have light!
Here's a pic of where the wire's are jumped on the board. The yellow line indicates where the wires would be jumped.
Wireing the switch between the batteries. Be sure to add a little extra wire, you may need putting it all back together.
Well that's about it! Bare in mind I would not have taken this apart, nor tried to fix it. If I did not get a replacement! so that's why I layed this all out. Maybe someone can use the info.
That being said, Don't cry to me if you pry your gun apart, and screw it up!!! That's on You!!!!
Oh! I almost forgot! You guy's would'nt want to see it in pieces would you?
Well...O.k.
There ya go! and please don't P.M. me about giving you the broken pieces, cause that gun no longer exsists.........
Or does it?
Lets just say I'm good with glue, the right putty, and paint...not tryin to brag...but their's no way I was going to throw those pieces in the trash!
Hopefully, someone found this helpfull! Sorry for bad grammer and spelling, but I was in a hurry to post, and well, my grammer sucks!
Oh! and in a few weeks I may (MAY!) do some pricing on machined Barrels, and front plate pieces. I just have to see what time provides me.
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