Aztek Dummy
Well-Known Member
looks just right to me
Kudos to you, sir
Kudos to you, sir
Kit of the USS Daedalus NCC-129?
- Thread starter SteveNeill
- Start date
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SteveNeill
Sr Member
Thanks you guys.
Steve
Steve
JP Modelworks
Active Member
It's a great size, if you can get this to production, I'd like to get one!
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Molds start this weekend.
Steve
Steve
Umm...
Yes and no...
CV-6 was NOT an Essex Class ship. It was the second Yorktown Class Carrier. 3 were built -- CV-5 USS Yorktown, CV-6 USS Enterprise, and CV-8 USS Hornet. Ironically, only the Enterprise is gone. The other two vessels exist largely intact as wrecks. Only a matter of time and money before an expedition finds the CV-8... CV-5 has already been located.
(Yes, I know CV-8 hasn't been found and photographed but seeing the condition of her sistership now it isn't beyond reason that ship's hull AND island could be in one piece, too.)
CV-9, USS Essex, was broadly similar but still a different and significantly larger design from her Yorktown Class predecessors. Only these ships survived in service past World War II because the pre-war designs were considered too slow (CV-3 USS Saratoga) or too small to be worth modernizing (CV-6 USS Enterprise).
I never said the Daedalus to TOS Enterprise lineage wasn't obvious. What never made sense to me was saying the Refit was the same ship (if something is 95-100% rebuilt is it REALLY the same vehicle???) let alone suggesting the revised TNG timeline and this business of saying NX-01 and NCC-1701 were of the same Trek universe.
Agree to disagree with me on some points, but please read what I wrote more carefully!
feek61
Sr Member
Agree to disagree with me on some points, but please read what I wrote more carefully!
Sorry, I was drunk when I wrote that, lol. But you are in error, the Enterprise was the only "Yorktown" class to survive the war (I did mistakenly say it was "Essex" class) intact. Both of the other only two "Yorktown" class carriers; the original "Yorktown" (CV-5) and "Hornet" (CV-8) were both lost early during the war and were rebuilt as "Essex" class carriers. I hardly consider them "surviving" but if you do as a wreak on the bottom of the sea floor that's your choice (but it's like saying the "Titanic" survived). In any event my original statement that the Essex class carriers that were comisisoned bared little resemblance to the ships they became by the end of their life (can you say angled flight deck?) is completely valid. That was my only point. Perhaps you should read my comments more carefully and try to comprehend the meaning of what I am expressing. It's the point that matters; sorry if I got a few facts wrong. That happens at my age! lol Fact is it's a frickin' TV show!
On another more pleasant note; I'm looking forward to an update on this project!
Sorry, I was drunk when I wrote that, lol. But you are in error, the Enterprise was the only "Yorktown" class to survive the war (I did mistakenly say it was "Essex" class) intact. Both of the other only two "Yorktown" class carriers; the original "Yorktown" (CV-5) and "Hornet" (CV-8) were both lost early during the war and were rebuilt as "Essex" class carriers. I hardly consider them "surviving" but if you do as a wreak on the bottom of the sea floor that's your choice (but it's like saying the "Titanic" survived). In any event my original statement that the Essex class carriers that were comisisoned bared little resemblance to the ships they became by the end of their life (can you say angled flight deck?) is completely valid. That was my only point. Perhaps you should read my comments more carefully and try to comprehend the meaning of what I am expressing. It's the point that matters; sorry if I got a few facts wrong. That happens at my age! lol Fact is it's a frickin' TV show!
On another more pleasant note; I'm looking forward to an update on this project!
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SteveNeill
Sr Member
Got my silicone today and 50 pounds of ultra cal 30 and some wet clay. I hope to start the molds this Sunday. I have next week off so I should be able to get them all done. Randy at Voodoo FX is working on the lighting. Hoping to hear back from Acreation about the decals.
Steve
Steve
brandomack
Sr Member
Rob's probably crazy busy with wonderfest.
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Didn't think of that. Thanks Brandon.
Steve
Steve
Steve,
Out of interest of NOT monopolizing and debating with guys who don't understand my writing (I think he's gotta stop writing when he's drunk),
I want to ask -- in all honesty -- how are YOU?
I hope in spite of all the craziness that things are fine.
Best wishes for your wife, too.
On another note, how different do you think The Motion Picture could have been if Matt Jefferies had stayed attached to the Star Trek revival project?
It's sort of like imagining what could have happened with Star Wars if Ralph McQuarrie had been hired by another company and couldn't stay with LucasFilm for the duration, or if George Lucas had begun believing too much of his own hype early on... I think that McQuarrie made a tremendous difference to those films. I've seen his pre-production paintings and his Star Wars (original film) work is the most interesting. The work for the first film set in place the other two much more than many people realize I think. Tons of things unused for the first film got picked up in the latter two. A LOT more than most people know.
Don't know if Trek fans really fully understand what Jefferies' importance to Star Trek was. The basics of his designs still remain through the spin-offs even if a lot of us don't care for the way other people have re-cooked or elaborated on those designs...
P.S. -- Last but not least, the Daedalus model does look nice!
Out of interest of NOT monopolizing and debating with guys who don't understand my writing (I think he's gotta stop writing when he's drunk),
I want to ask -- in all honesty -- how are YOU?
I hope in spite of all the craziness that things are fine.
Best wishes for your wife, too.
On another note, how different do you think The Motion Picture could have been if Matt Jefferies had stayed attached to the Star Trek revival project?
It's sort of like imagining what could have happened with Star Wars if Ralph McQuarrie had been hired by another company and couldn't stay with LucasFilm for the duration, or if George Lucas had begun believing too much of his own hype early on... I think that McQuarrie made a tremendous difference to those films. I've seen his pre-production paintings and his Star Wars (original film) work is the most interesting. The work for the first film set in place the other two much more than many people realize I think. Tons of things unused for the first film got picked up in the latter two. A LOT more than most people know.
Don't know if Trek fans really fully understand what Jefferies' importance to Star Trek was. The basics of his designs still remain through the spin-offs even if a lot of us don't care for the way other people have re-cooked or elaborated on those designs...
P.S. -- Last but not least, the Daedalus model does look nice!
SteveNeill
Sr Member
George we are hanging in there. Wife has stage four cancer. Tough to beat. She’s in treatment at City of Hope. Best there is. But we are both staying on track. As they say, “Damn the photon torpedoes, full steam ahead.”
As for you question. Abram’s so called Star Trek is the best answer . Jefferies would have never designed such a garbage scow with clown feet for nacelles.
IMO JJ’s Star Trek was an act of total want and disregard for anything Roddenberry. Right down to his making history to be the first to leave off Gene’s “Created By” credit he has always had at the “beginning” of all ST productions. Gene’s was at the end credits that no one see’s anymore. Not to mention Gene’s time line being wiped out.
I knew Gene and worked for him. He didn’t deserve that. Enough said.
The molds will start tomorrow as I’m finishing the Blockade Runner for Fuse Nova today and it ships. I have the whole week off to work on Daedalus.
Steve
As for you question. Abram’s so called Star Trek is the best answer . Jefferies would have never designed such a garbage scow with clown feet for nacelles.
IMO JJ’s Star Trek was an act of total want and disregard for anything Roddenberry. Right down to his making history to be the first to leave off Gene’s “Created By” credit he has always had at the “beginning” of all ST productions. Gene’s was at the end credits that no one see’s anymore. Not to mention Gene’s time line being wiped out.
I knew Gene and worked for him. He didn’t deserve that. Enough said.
The molds will start tomorrow as I’m finishing the Blockade Runner for Fuse Nova today and it ships. I have the whole week off to work on Daedalus.
Steve
SteveNeill
Sr Member
wrong thread
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SteveNeill
Sr Member
wrong thread
Last edited:
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Back to the Daedalus project most of the day was spent running around town picking up necessary items.
Some nice smooth press board to cut up and mount the individual master parts to. Nuts and bolts for the case molds. Styrene strips to extend the edges of the masters. EM 210 layup water based clay for the case molds.
And I picked up a vacuum pump and a pressure pot converted into a vacuum chamber. An old friend of mind had it on hand a just gave it to me! Talk about lucky me. The one I looked at two days ago was 600 bucks.
At this point you are probably wondering what a case mold is. We made plenty of these at the studios as it was the best way to do two things. Save silicone, and make and even thickness, smooth silicone mold.
This is how it works. You mount your master to the flat surface. I tack glue them in place to be later removed while keeping them inside the mold (this helps with doing the cores). Once mounted you build a smooth even thickness of water based clay over the master. What you envision here is the eventual silicone mold jacket. You also use half rounds and make a nice set of keys around the base. Later these will be used to capture the core.
The clay should be built up at the top in a cylinder. Like a volcano spout. This is where the silicone will get poured in.
Now you mix up the Ultracal 30 which is a tool stone over very hard plaster. You build it over the clay and down on to the base. You make a flange all the way the way around the base.
Once the tool stone sets up you drill holes through the flange and through the wood it’s all mounted to. These will be for those bolts.
Next remove the tool stone mother casing and clean all the clay off the masters.
Next mix your silicone and brush a coat on the part. Put the mother mold casing back on and bolt it down. Pour the silicone into the open hole up top until you fill the mold.
When you open this mold the facing side of the mother mold is all smooth and even, the mold jacket is of an even thickness. About ¼ inch will do.
Tomorrow I’m starting the actual molds so you’ll see better what I mean. But after you see this you’ll never do brush up molds again. This gives you real control. And saves you money.
As you can see the parts count on this kit will be low. They are all clean and ready to star molding.
More tomorrow,
Steve
Some nice smooth press board to cut up and mount the individual master parts to. Nuts and bolts for the case molds. Styrene strips to extend the edges of the masters. EM 210 layup water based clay for the case molds.
And I picked up a vacuum pump and a pressure pot converted into a vacuum chamber. An old friend of mind had it on hand a just gave it to me! Talk about lucky me. The one I looked at two days ago was 600 bucks.
At this point you are probably wondering what a case mold is. We made plenty of these at the studios as it was the best way to do two things. Save silicone, and make and even thickness, smooth silicone mold.
This is how it works. You mount your master to the flat surface. I tack glue them in place to be later removed while keeping them inside the mold (this helps with doing the cores). Once mounted you build a smooth even thickness of water based clay over the master. What you envision here is the eventual silicone mold jacket. You also use half rounds and make a nice set of keys around the base. Later these will be used to capture the core.
The clay should be built up at the top in a cylinder. Like a volcano spout. This is where the silicone will get poured in.
Now you mix up the Ultracal 30 which is a tool stone over very hard plaster. You build it over the clay and down on to the base. You make a flange all the way the way around the base.
Once the tool stone sets up you drill holes through the flange and through the wood it’s all mounted to. These will be for those bolts.
Next remove the tool stone mother casing and clean all the clay off the masters.
Next mix your silicone and brush a coat on the part. Put the mother mold casing back on and bolt it down. Pour the silicone into the open hole up top until you fill the mold.
When you open this mold the facing side of the mother mold is all smooth and even, the mold jacket is of an even thickness. About ¼ inch will do.
Tomorrow I’m starting the actual molds so you’ll see better what I mean. But after you see this you’ll never do brush up molds again. This gives you real control. And saves you money.
As you can see the parts count on this kit will be low. They are all clean and ready to star molding.
More tomorrow,
Steve
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Silicone Rob. No stick.
Steve
Steve
SD Studios
Well-Known Member
Looks awesome. Ready to buy TWO!
What about the littly spikes for the bussard caps? What size hemis are those? If you are casting them in resin, I may buy those separately and light them.
Thanks for doing this kit! It was much-needed!
What about the littly spikes for the bussard caps? What size hemis are those? If you are casting them in resin, I may buy those separately and light them.
Thanks for doing this kit! It was much-needed!
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