Smiling Demon
Sr Member
I have to ask is mine one of those that went out today?
Kit of the USS Daedalus NCC-129?
- Thread starter SteveNeill
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brandomack
Sr Member
OK. The first 9 kits went out today including yours Brandon.
Look for them later next week. There's a CD in there that has a word file I'm now not sure many of you can read except those that have Word 2007. So if this is the case email me and I'll send you the file in the old formatt or PDF. Mostly the CD has lots of pictures hints and things to do and not to do. But know insulting, annoying, time eating instructions.
Round two will go out the around the end of this month. Resin is on order, more domes, decals and window masks.
Thanks again for all your support guys.
Steve
Anytime, Steve. Thanks again for producing such a kickass model!
Brandon
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Brandon you are very welcome. And to the smiling Demon that's a big 10/4.
Steve
Steve
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Be glad you still work. I had to start all this to keep afloat after the studios put me out to pasture. 
Steve
Steve
robn1
Master Member
SteveNeill
Sr Member
I'm busy currently with another large Seaview build that's an Radio Controlled model for a customer. I hope in the next few days to find the time to do a green screen gage and video effects in Lightwave.
My next project is for me. I'm going to finish up the Monogram Voyager I started 12 years ago or more. Got all the upgrade stuff here and a board I'm getting from Voodoo.
Thinking about the next kit while I work on her. Still have my Big E to mold but ran out of money for now. I also have my 66 inch Disney Nautilus I'm slowing making and RC model.
Steve
My next project is for me. I'm going to finish up the Monogram Voyager I started 12 years ago or more. Got all the upgrade stuff here and a board I'm getting from Voodoo.
Thinking about the next kit while I work on her. Still have my Big E to mold but ran out of money for now. I also have my 66 inch Disney Nautilus I'm slowing making and RC model.
Steve
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Glad to hear it got there and you're happy.
I see by the emails I'm getting from Fedex many have been delievered. Good.
If you find that you can't read that word file here it is in print for you to copy and print:
These Aren’t Instructions.
Remember, you never read them anyway
Building the Daedalus is pretty easy. And I’d never insult you with confusing instructions. That would slow you up and kill all the fun. Your building table is chomping at the bit and ready to go anyway. So start building! How is that for a change?
The real hard part is the windows. I found it best to drill them out as wide as possible and file out the rest. I also found if you make them over sized, bigger than 1/8 square, you can later use the included masks over the epoxy filled window, so when your primer and paint you will remove the masks to find a perfectly formed window. Not like my messy one’s in the pictures.
Be sure to tape the back of the windows and fill from the front with 30 minute epoxy. Be careful and later flat sand the windows flush to the surface. When you clear coat the model they will be shinny again. Or at least clear.
You will also find some small bubbles here and there. Some parts may be warped such as the nacelles. I found this too when building the two models I built for Doug and myself. But I found it easy to correct them with a heat gun and when pressed against a flat surface they were straight again.
All resins have a memory. And when heated they will return to their original shape. I found even more so with the white Alumilite. That material reforms very easily. So don’t panic if you find a bad warp. Even a hair dryer should work easy on the white Alumilite.
Even though I didn’t use mold release on these castings but rather baby powder to relieve bubbles, wash the parts in warm soapy water. You know this of course.
You will encounter some shrinkage. I found some on the ball halves but used a thin strip of Styrene around the join which helped a lot in blocking the light leaks and evening up the two parts. If you have a selection of styrene strips don’t be afraid to use it to clean up things. In the pictures you will find the exact sizes I included. You will also find in the kits some strips of styrene corrugated that I used on the ball top and bottoms. This can be used if wanted to clean up that area more easily as detail that small seems to attract bubbles. It will decrease the ID but very little.
When I assembled the second model I found attaching the array to the lower secondary hull, the neck and the lower half of the ball the easiest way to assemble and lay in the lights. See the pictures for how I got them aligned.
Be sure to drill through the soft aluminum in the neck through the pylon slots. Also you’ll want to push some through the pylon tunnels to force out any clay left behind I used to keep resin out with.
You can build an internal armature if you want. I did one with and one without. They have been both sitting for some time now and sill no sign of drooping. Additionally when lining up the nacelles, attach them first to the pylons and then use that heat gun to set them. Heat the pylons and twist them by hand. When they cool down they will hold the alignment.
For the Bussards I used 6, 3 mm bright flashers and 220 ohm resistors. See the pictures on this disc. The rest you can order from Model Lighting_Lighting Kits_Sound Effects_Models_Props_Animatronics tell Randy I sent you.
I used epoxy, medium and thin CA on the kit. Epoxy where I needed time. 5 minute was best. 30 minute where you need more time to align.
You guys have all built garage kits before or what the heck are you doing here? But if you haven’t, may I point you to the replica prop forum for the assistance of myself and other talented people there that know how to turn these lumps of resin into a fine model: Movie Props, Costumes and Scale Models | the RPF
And the thread on this model: http://www.therpf.com/f11/kit-uss-daedalus-ncc-129-a-114026/
Have fun and if you have to contact me for anything from advice to getting a replacement part.
U812@socal.rr.com
Steve Neill
I see by the emails I'm getting from Fedex many have been delievered. Good.
If you find that you can't read that word file here it is in print for you to copy and print:
These Aren’t Instructions.
Remember, you never read them anyway
Building the Daedalus is pretty easy. And I’d never insult you with confusing instructions. That would slow you up and kill all the fun. Your building table is chomping at the bit and ready to go anyway. So start building! How is that for a change?
The real hard part is the windows. I found it best to drill them out as wide as possible and file out the rest. I also found if you make them over sized, bigger than 1/8 square, you can later use the included masks over the epoxy filled window, so when your primer and paint you will remove the masks to find a perfectly formed window. Not like my messy one’s in the pictures.
Be sure to tape the back of the windows and fill from the front with 30 minute epoxy. Be careful and later flat sand the windows flush to the surface. When you clear coat the model they will be shinny again. Or at least clear.
You will also find some small bubbles here and there. Some parts may be warped such as the nacelles. I found this too when building the two models I built for Doug and myself. But I found it easy to correct them with a heat gun and when pressed against a flat surface they were straight again.
All resins have a memory. And when heated they will return to their original shape. I found even more so with the white Alumilite. That material reforms very easily. So don’t panic if you find a bad warp. Even a hair dryer should work easy on the white Alumilite.
Even though I didn’t use mold release on these castings but rather baby powder to relieve bubbles, wash the parts in warm soapy water. You know this of course.
You will encounter some shrinkage. I found some on the ball halves but used a thin strip of Styrene around the join which helped a lot in blocking the light leaks and evening up the two parts. If you have a selection of styrene strips don’t be afraid to use it to clean up things. In the pictures you will find the exact sizes I included. You will also find in the kits some strips of styrene corrugated that I used on the ball top and bottoms. This can be used if wanted to clean up that area more easily as detail that small seems to attract bubbles. It will decrease the ID but very little.
When I assembled the second model I found attaching the array to the lower secondary hull, the neck and the lower half of the ball the easiest way to assemble and lay in the lights. See the pictures for how I got them aligned.
Be sure to drill through the soft aluminum in the neck through the pylon slots. Also you’ll want to push some through the pylon tunnels to force out any clay left behind I used to keep resin out with.
You can build an internal armature if you want. I did one with and one without. They have been both sitting for some time now and sill no sign of drooping. Additionally when lining up the nacelles, attach them first to the pylons and then use that heat gun to set them. Heat the pylons and twist them by hand. When they cool down they will hold the alignment.
For the Bussards I used 6, 3 mm bright flashers and 220 ohm resistors. See the pictures on this disc. The rest you can order from Model Lighting_Lighting Kits_Sound Effects_Models_Props_Animatronics tell Randy I sent you.
I used epoxy, medium and thin CA on the kit. Epoxy where I needed time. 5 minute was best. 30 minute where you need more time to align.
You guys have all built garage kits before or what the heck are you doing here? But if you haven’t, may I point you to the replica prop forum for the assistance of myself and other talented people there that know how to turn these lumps of resin into a fine model: Movie Props, Costumes and Scale Models | the RPF
And the thread on this model: http://www.therpf.com/f11/kit-uss-daedalus-ncc-129-a-114026/
Have fun and if you have to contact me for anything from advice to getting a replacement part.
U812@socal.rr.com
Steve Neill
Aztek Dummy
Well-Known Member
Steve,
Got mine today as well. Muchas Thanks! I thought the baby powder was a nice touch, certainly better than the smell of some resin kits I've seen. LOL
I do notice some warpage, but I chalk that up to the incredible heatwave we've been having. I can't imagine it was much cooler in transit. I will lay the parts out in the conditioned air for a few days to see if they snap back to shape before I get too concerned.
thanks again,
Lou
Got mine today as well. Muchas Thanks! I thought the baby powder was a nice touch, certainly better than the smell of some resin kits I've seen. LOL
I do notice some warpage, but I chalk that up to the incredible heatwave we've been having. I can't imagine it was much cooler in transit. I will lay the parts out in the conditioned air for a few days to see if they snap back to shape before I get too concerned.
thanks again,
Lou
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Lou just flat sand all the straight edges and then use a heat gun. They'll go back. One of the nice things about the white Alumilite is it has more flex and can be forced straight to fit when assembling the two halves.
And yes no mold release was used other than the powder. This will go along way to keeping the paint where it belongs. Additionally the powder does act as a release judging by how the molds are holding up so far after 20 runs.
Have fun with it.
Steve
And yes no mold release was used other than the powder. This will go along way to keeping the paint where it belongs. Additionally the powder does act as a release judging by how the molds are holding up so far after 20 runs.
Have fun with it.
Steve
SD Studios
Well-Known Member
Got my two kits yesterday, Steve. Thanks!
Great work!
Bravo Sir.
Bravo!
Great work!
Bravo Sir.
Bravo!
Aztek Dummy
Well-Known Member
Steve,
Do you have a resource you can share for the 4 pin connector you used to attach the ship to the pole? it looks to me like a microphone jack, is it that simple? are they easy to get?
thanks
UPDATE: It only took a little looking to see that these are available at Radio Shack. Sorry to have taken up your time. Nothing to see here..Move along, move along...
Do you have a resource you can share for the 4 pin connector you used to attach the ship to the pole? it looks to me like a microphone jack, is it that simple? are they easy to get?
thanks
UPDATE: It only took a little looking to see that these are available at Radio Shack. Sorry to have taken up your time. Nothing to see here..Move along, move along...
Last edited:
Smiling Demon
Sr Member
I am kinda jealous that you guys have your kits already!!!
Just kidding, mine should be here today. I hope!!!!
Can't wait to get it and get started on it.
Is there another easy alternative for lighting other than VooDooFX?
Thought about going with one of the NX lighting kits and just replacing the blue LEDs for the nacelles with clear or just hide them inside the nacelles.
Any suggestions?
Kenny
Just kidding, mine should be here today. I hope!!!!
Can't wait to get it and get started on it.
Is there another easy alternative for lighting other than VooDooFX?
Thought about going with one of the NX lighting kits and just replacing the blue LEDs for the nacelles with clear or just hide them inside the nacelles.
Any suggestions?
Kenny
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Thanks guys and Kenny yes you can do that. There are a lot of ways to do it. Personally I like my Bussard effect best. And I bet one of you figure out how to get the motorized cage in there,
Steve
Steve
Smiling Demon
Sr Member
Steve, I love your buzzards but I am LED illiterate.
SteveNeill
Sr Member
The above These aren't instructions and the pictures will tell all. Just 12 3 mm 3-5 volts flashers, 12 220 ohm resistors. You can get this stuff from Randy. The pictures show what I did. Very simple.
Steve
Steve
Smiling Demon
Sr Member
Got my kit today and I see what you mean about the warping.
I have never dealt with this type of resin before. I thought it would be more rigid.
Should be fairly simple to straighten though. I am excited about this model to say the least!!
Kenny
I have never dealt with this type of resin before. I thought it would be more rigid.
Should be fairly simple to straighten though. I am excited about this model to say the least!!
Kenny
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Lately the 1/350 Enterprise from Polar was warped. The Anigrand Star Destroyer was very warped. The Randy Copper Blockade runner was warped. This seems to be typical of garage kits and even some styrene kits.
The kits when I sent them out had no large warps or problems I could fine and I bet that goes for the kits I built for customers. But send them through the mail and things seem to happen then.
Kenny go to your local hobby store and get a 19 dollar heat gun used for Monocoat covering on RC airplanes. Heat the parts up on a flat surface after you flat sand the edges and they go back. Sorry about the warpage.
Steve
The kits when I sent them out had no large warps or problems I could fine and I bet that goes for the kits I built for customers. But send them through the mail and things seem to happen then.
Kenny go to your local hobby store and get a 19 dollar heat gun used for Monocoat covering on RC airplanes. Heat the parts up on a flat surface after you flat sand the edges and they go back. Sorry about the warpage.
Steve
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Here's a crappy little test I did tonight. I'll try again tomorrow. I need to fix the lighting and flagging and block more green screen spill on the model. I'm having to use far too much spill suppression.
The background was done in Lightwave and one I had on hand that doesn't match the angle. But I just wanted to see if I could pull it off and with a little more planning and work I think I can. Hard though with a nearly white model that wants to pick up the green.
Steve
YouTube - 1/350 Daedalus model green screen test‏
The background was done in Lightwave and one I had on hand that doesn't match the angle. But I just wanted to see if I could pull it off and with a little more planning and work I think I can. Hard though with a nearly white model that wants to pick up the green.
Steve
YouTube - 1/350 Daedalus model green screen test‏
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