Kermit the Frog here! V2 finished. v1 and v2 patterns posted!

Your work is incredible! I’m about to start my journey of building a kermit, will there be more patterns to come? I love the look of V2 but love the legs on V1, and I’m not too sure how I’d mix the two patterns together as I don’t have much sewing experience.
You're so kind, thank you! There will be more patterns to come! I'm working on a Beaker build right now that I have to figure out before Thanksgiving, and then I'll come back to Kermit to organize and post the v2 patterns. I also need to figure out the v3 patterns before Christmas (which will be a blending of v1 and v2) and will post those as well, probably around the end of the year.

And if it helps you, I had absolutely no experience in sewing or puppet building before I started this thread. If you want to learn about sewing and puppet building while you wait for me to post the v2 and v3 patterns, I'd recommend checking out Puppet Nerd's YouTube channel. I watched every video of his. I also highly recommend all of the videos and live recordings from Swazzle Production's channel as well. Both of those channels helped me learn so much about the basic and even semi-advanced concepts of puppet building and sewing, and really gave me the confidence to start this journey.
 
I'm still going to swear the chest build is muppet Alien seed pods. It is now stuck in my memory from that one chest only picture.

IMG_3456.jpeg


If ever you have a set of chests sitting around and a finished kermit, you have the making of "Muppets vs Alien". But, as the creative director behind this nightmare crossover, it would be Pepe in the pod:

Pepe_the_King_Prawn_(Muppet).jpg


And Gonzo as the fully grown Alien. They await your decision:

Gonzo-and-Pepe-enter-the-Muppets-Haunted-Mansion--3250402877.jpeg


We can skip the face hugging and chest bursting for the sake and future sanity of our young audience.
 
Hey everybody, just an update. I was planning to compile and post my v2 patterns last week but unfortunately the multiple power outages and fires all around me in LA kinda put a stop to that- though in hindsight working on it might have taken my mind off of things. Thankfully I ended up not needing to evacuate, and my heart breaks for my friends/coworkers/strangers that lost so much.

Things have calmed down around me, so hopefully I'll post the v2 patterns this weekend!

Also, I'm not sure if I'll be able to post the v3 patterns. I totally forgot to take pics of the resulting puppet before I gave it away so I don't want to post patterns to a puppet you can't see. I might still make a v3 for myself and let it go if v4 comes out better (already have plans for v4).
 
Hey everybody, just an update. I was planning to compile and post my v2 patterns last week but unfortunately the multiple power outages and fires all around me in LA kinda put a stop to that- though in hindsight working on it might have taken my mind off of things. Thankfully I ended up not needing to evacuate, and my heart breaks for my friends/coworkers/strangers that lost so much.

Things have calmed down around me, so hopefully I'll post the v2 patterns this weekend!

Also, I'm not sure if I'll be able to post the v3 patterns. I totally forgot to take pics of the resulting puppet before I gave it away so I don't want to post patterns to a puppet you can't see. I might still make a v3 for myself and let it go if v4 comes out better (already have plans for v4).
Glad to hear you're okay! The pictures coming out of LA right now are just heartbreaking.
 
Hey everybody, just an update. I was planning to compile and post my v2 patterns last week but unfortunately the multiple power outages and fires all around me in LA kinda put a stop to that- though in hindsight working on it might have taken my mind off of things. Thankfully I ended up not needing to evacuate, and my heart breaks for my friends/coworkers/strangers that lost so much.

Things have calmed down around me, so hopefully I'll post the v2 patterns this weekend!

Also, I'm not sure if I'll be able to post the v3 patterns. I totally forgot to take pics of the resulting puppet before I gave it away so I don't want to post patterns to a puppet you can't see. I might still make a v3 for myself and let it go if v4 comes out better (already have plans for v4).
Hay Bk85, we were in a similar situation here in Australia a couple of years ago. Really devastating stuff, so we all feel for you and your fellow Californians. Please stay as safe as you possible can and take care.
 
I had some spare time last night and was able to compile my v2 patterns into a single doc. These are scaled to a 38 mm eye. Since the neck opening dimensions are a bit wider than the v1, you might need to make some adjustments if you decide to mix and match the head/body so that there is enough fleece to match up to the other part. Also, in case you want to make a full body puppet- the leg patterns from v1 should still work on this one as the body is a similar size, just a bit taller/shaped differently.

Heads up that the pattern is sized for 11x17 paper, so you might need to make adjustments for a normal home printer, just remember not to scale (unless you want to). Also attaching my updated eye and palm plate .stl files used for this pattern.

Enjoy!!!
 

Attachments

  • bk85 Kermit V2 Final Patterns Tabloid 11x17.pdf
    1.4 MB · Views: 254
  • Palm Plate v2.stl
    70.4 KB · Views: 127
  • 38mm eye screw v2.stl
    767.9 KB · Views: 97
  • 38mm eye dome v2.stl
    702.1 KB · Views: 101
I had some spare time last night and was able to compile my v2 patterns into a single doc. These are scaled to a 38 mm eye. Since the neck opening dimensions are a bit wider than the v1, you might need to make some adjustments if you decide to mix and match the head/body so that there is enough fleece to match up to the other part. Also, in case you want to make a full body puppet- the leg patterns from v1 should still work on this one as the body is a similar size, just a bit taller/shaped differently.

Heads up that the pattern is sized for 11x17 paper, so you might need to make adjustments for a normal home printer, just remember not to scale (unless you want to). Also attaching my updated eye and palm plate .stl files used for this pattern.

Enjoy!!!
Just in time! I'm about to finish up a cookie monster build before I start on Kermit.
THANK YOU!!!!
 
Just in time! I'm about to finish up a cookie monster build before I start on Kermit.
THANK YOU!!!!
PICS AND LINK!! PICS AND LINK!! (imagine me with my picket sign wandering back and forth in front of this convo) Hey and howdy. Would love to see the process pics. Any chance of you starting a quick rpf thread with current build?
 
Oh nice!! Was that you that just posted the Cookie Monster pattern on FB Muppet Makers? I have it saved to my files to try out one day
PICS AND LINK!! PICS AND LINK!! (imagine me with my picket sign wandering back and forth in front of this convo) Hey and howdy. Would love to see the process pics. Any chance of you starting a quick rpf thread with current build?
Yep that's me! The pattern is still a work in progress, but I'd love to do a properly printable PDF package like Kermit's.
I thought I'd be done with cookie monster by now but the new year's been throwing a lot at me, so progress is slow. I'll for sure do a build thread later today but here's the rough pattern I have so far if you're interested
 

Attachments

  • CookieMonster.pdf
    377.6 KB · Views: 65
  • PXL_20250116_211600584.jpg
    PXL_20250116_211600584.jpg
    6.2 MB · Views: 61
PICS AND LINK!! PICS AND LINK!! (imagine me with my picket sign wandering back and forth in front of this convo) Hey and howdy. Would love to see the process pics. Any chance of you starting a quick rpf thread with current build?
Also if you're not already in the Muppet maker's FB group I'd highly recommend joining, lots of great info over there
 
I had some spare time last night and was able to compile my v2 patterns into a single doc. These are scaled to a 38 mm eye. Since the neck opening dimensions are a bit wider than the v1, you might need to make some adjustments if you decide to mix and match the head/body so that there is enough fleece to match up to the other part. Also, in case you want to make a full body puppet- the leg patterns from v1 should still work on this one as the body is a similar size, just a bit taller/shaped differently.

Heads up that the pattern is sized for 11x17 paper, so you might need to make adjustments for a normal home printer, just remember not to scale (unless you want to). Also attaching my updated eye and palm plate .stl files used for this pattern.

Enjoy!!!
Did we already cover fleece favorites? If it is back in the thread somewhere, I am willing to go back and look.
 
Did we already cover fleece favorites? If it is back in the thread somewhere, I am willing to go back and look.
Funnily enough, not in my thread. I added something to ECLs the other day as there were a couple of posts about it. Now, I do want to flag that I am nowhere near an expert in fleeces. I'm just a very opinionated dude :lol:


For the one v2 puppet that I made, I used the Frog Fuzzelle again but after using F3 for my v3, I'm not the biggest Fuzzelle fan anymore. The color was close but not close enough but even dying my own I'd still prefer the F3. The fuzzelle is very dull and has a knit backing that is just a bit too loose. If you sew too close to the edge, you run the risk of unraveling the fabric a bit. Fuzzelle is still a great option though!

The F3 has a much tighter knit that I really love. The pile is also denser than Fuzzelle and it dyes beautifully. It has a shine that is similar to the Malden Mills fabric that has been used for Kermit since the late 70s until it runs/ran out since it hasn't been made in a while.

Nylafleece is just ok. I didn't jump in to the game until way too late to get some OG Antron fleece or the first couple of variations of Nylafleece but from what I've heard, the quality now is nothing near what it used to be. It used to be much more similar to the original true Antron fleece which was slightly fluffy and had a mix of normal and shiny fibers (was probably the same fiber it just caught light in a more complex way). It's also so thin. I also think this has it's purposes as it does things that neither F3 or Fuzzelle can do, like the pilling that you see in early Kermits. It's just that Georgia Stage has not put in the work or the money to get a supplier that can make it like the guy they bought the rights from. They say that "the fiber isn't made anymore". Well, then make it?! so Nylafleece is now just a step above polar fleece in terms of appearance to me, personally.

That being said, they all have their roles!! I loved using nylafleece when I made Beakers nose. It stretches beautifully and I like the duller look for his specific nose, even though I used F3 for his head. Sometimes the F3 is a bit too shiny so I would use fuzzelle when I need the look of the F3 but want it to be dull. Nylafleece would be used when making an older Kermit or something because that is the only one that can pill, or when I need something SUPER stretchy to wrap around a complex shape without having to make a complex pattern.

Here's my post that I put in ECL's thread to keep a record of it here as well:

Just to jump in regarding the F3 fleece, I love it!! It's my favorite of the 3 and very similar to the Malden Mills fleece used on Kermit from the late 70s until the supply ran out (though Kermit's current makers, Puppet Heap might have stock that they are still able to use). It's slightly shinier than the Malden Mills fleece, but much better than the very matte/dull Fuzzelle. It also has a tighter knit on the back of it than the Fuzzelle, making it much easier to sew with as you can get much closer to the edge than you can with Fuzzelle. It can be purchased by the yard from Dharma Trading, but it does only come in white and needs to be dyed yourself. That being said, the owner recently suggested that he's looking for additional distribution partners and hopes to eventually offer some additional colors. I was using Fuzzelle originally but after using F3, I'm never going back. And it's MUCH more affordable!!

Here's a post in my thread comparing a piece of an actual 80s/90s Kermit, with the Fisher Price Kermit hand puppet from the late 70s that used the same Malden Mills fleece, and factory dyed Fuzzelle: MM vs FP vs Fuz.

I just found out that I never posted about this in my build thread (I could have swore I did), but I also tried dying F3 and comparing it to the piece of Kermit that I have and here is what they look like in 3 lighting conditions. The F3 is the larger piece.

IMG_2118.JPG
IMG_2119.JPG
IMG_2120.JPG
 
Funnily enough, not in my thread. I added something to ECLs the other day as there were a couple of posts about it. Now, I do want to flag that I am nowhere near an expert in fleeces. I'm just a very opinionated dude :lol:


For the one v2 puppet that I made, I used the Frog Fuzzelle again but after using F3 for my v3, I'm not the biggest Fuzzelle fan anymore. The color was close but not close enough but even dying my own I'd still prefer the F3. The fuzzelle is very dull and has a knit backing that is just a bit too loose. If you sew too close to the edge, you run the risk of unraveling the fabric a bit. Fuzzelle is still a great option though!

The F3 has a much tighter knit that I really love. The pile is also denser than Fuzzelle and it dyes beautifully. It has a shine that is similar to the Malden Mills fabric that has been used for Kermit since the late 70s until it runs/ran out since it hasn't been made in a while.

Nylafleece is just ok. I didn't jump in to the game until way too late to get some OG Antron fleece or the first couple of variations of Nylafleece but from what I've heard, the quality now is nothing near what it used to be. It used to be much more similar to the original true Antron fleece which was slightly fluffy and had a mix of normal and shiny fibers (was probably the same fiber it just caught light in a more complex way). It's also so thin. I also think this has it's purposes as it does things that neither F3 or Fuzzelle can do, like the pilling that you see in early Kermits. It's just that Georgia Stage has not put in the work or the money to get a supplier that can make it like the guy they bought the rights from. They say that "the fiber isn't made anymore". Well, then make it?! so Nylafleece is now just a step above polar fleece in terms of appearance to me, personally.

That being said, they all have their roles!! I loved using nylafleece when I made Beakers nose. It stretches beautifully and I like the duller look for his specific nose, even though I used F3 for his head. Sometimes the F3 is a bit too shiny so I would use fuzzelle when I need the look of the F3 but want it to be dull. Nylafleece would be used when making an older Kermit or something because that is the only one that can pill, or when I need something SUPER stretchy to wrap around a complex shape without having to make a complex pattern.

Here's my post that I put in ECL's thread to keep a record of it here as well:

Just to jump in regarding the F3 fleece, I love it!! It's my favorite of the 3 and very similar to the Malden Mills fleece used on Kermit from the late 70s until the supply ran out (though Kermit's current makers, Puppet Heap might have stock that they are still able to use). It's slightly shinier than the Malden Mills fleece, but much better than the very matte/dull Fuzzelle. It also has a tighter knit on the back of it than the Fuzzelle, making it much easier to sew with as you can get much closer to the edge than you can with Fuzzelle. It can be purchased by the yard from Dharma Trading, but it does only come in white and needs to be dyed yourself. That being said, the owner recently suggested that he's looking for additional distribution partners and hopes to eventually offer some additional colors. I was using Fuzzelle originally but after using F3, I'm never going back. And it's MUCH more affordable!!

Here's a post in my thread comparing a piece of an actual 80s/90s Kermit, with the Fisher Price Kermit hand puppet from the late 70s that used the same Malden Mills fleece, and factory dyed Fuzzelle: MM vs FP vs Fuz.

I just found out that I never posted about this in my build thread (I could have swore I did), but I also tried dying F3 and comparing it to the piece of Kermit that I have and here is what they look like in 3 lighting conditions. The F3 is the larger piece.

View attachment 1896586View attachment 1896587View attachment 1896588
Just to add, they all hide seams really really well but I think that the F3 hides seams the best of the 3
 
I'll chime into agree with the "Nylafleece is just okay", and it's nice to confirm that there was indeed a quality drop at some point as that's been my experience with the batch I got for my Piggy replica. I built a Kermit in 2020 using Nylafleece and for that build I had no issues using sharpie to mark the foam, the Nylafleece was thick enough that it completely hid the sharpie once it was sewn on. Piggy though, the sharpie was super visible underneath the fleece, and I had to redo those pieces with a disappearing ink marker. I think the duller Nylafleece will work better for Piggy, but for my next Kermit I think I'll give the F3 fleece a try.
 
Hey all! I’ve been trying to make a replica Kermit for a bit now, I actually happened to follow the ECL Build Bible that KO made and then stumbled upon this and decided to switch gears last minute after ripping Kermit’s head apart because I wasn’t happy. Wondering if you guys have any tips on sewing the arms and the legs to the body? Thanks!
 
Hey all! I’ve been trying to make a replica Kermit for a bit now, I actually happened to follow the ECL Build Bible that KO made and then stumbled upon this and decided to switch gears last minute after ripping Kermit’s head apart because I wasn’t happy. Wondering if you guys have any tips on sewing the arms and the legs to the body? Thanks!
Hey coidbepdic ! I love that you're making a Kermit! I kind of went over it in Post 48 but I'm about to hit that step on my current Kermit build. I'll make sure to take some better pics or a video for you! In the meantime, I hope this helps:

Basically it's just a ladder stitch for attaching the arms and legs. This helps give you a pretty invisible seam at the connection point. Since you already started your build, you've possibly already encountered the ladder stitch but in case you haven't here's a good video showing it off (ladder stitch is at 2:47). Attaching the arms and legs is really the only time I use the ladder stitch, preferring either the baseball or the whip stitch for the rest of the build. I really only use a machine for sewing the lining.


You definitely want the legs stuffed all the way to the top before attaching to help give some shape to the point of connection, the arms don't really need to be fully stuffed at the top (and shouldn't since the real one has about a 1/2 inch or so gap between the stuffing and shoulder). The legs attach in a circle shape and the arms are in a flat oval. I tend to trace an appropriately shaped guide on the body using a purple disappearing ink fabric marker (totally optional but it really helps me). This really helps when you're in the middle of the stitch and trying to make sure the shape and placement are correct. I will sew a few stitches, pull it tight, sew a few stitches, pull it tight, etc. Also, you want the fleece at the connection points of the arms and legs to roll inwards ever so slightly as you start so that it naturally folds inward as you sew/tighten. To help this, I actually knot the thread onto the fleece of the arm/leg finishing with the needle and thread being pushed through to the outside of the fleece about 1/8 down from the fabric edge. Then start stitching. Also, doubling up the thread or using a thicker thread can help so that it doesn't snap as you're tightening.

It's definitely tricky to get them to look good but if you have a non-permanent guide line, use fine stitches (about 8-10 per inch), keep pulling taught every few stitches, and go slow, it starts to come together. Here's a quick drawing, though I a definitely not a good artist by any definition.

BK85 attach arms and legs.jpg
 
Hey coidbepdic ! I love that you're making a Kermit! I kind of went over it in Post 48 but I'm about to hit that step on my current Kermit build. I'll make sure to take some better pics or a video for you! In the meantime, I hope this helps:

Basically it's just a ladder stitch for attaching the arms and legs. This helps give you a pretty invisible seam at the connection point. Since you already started your build, you've possibly already encountered the ladder stitch but in case you haven't here's a good video showing it off (ladder stitch is at 2:47). Attaching the arms and legs is really the only time I use the ladder stitch, preferring either the baseball or the whip stitch for the rest of the build. I really only use a machine for sewing the lining.


You definitely want the legs stuffed all the way to the top before attaching to help give some shape to the point of connection, the arms don't really need to be fully stuffed at the top (and shouldn't since the real one has about a 1/2 inch or so gap between the stuffing and shoulder). The legs attach in a circle shape and the arms are in a flat oval. I tend to trace an appropriately shaped guide on the body using a purple disappearing ink fabric marker (totally optional but it really helps me). This really helps when you're in the middle of the stitch and trying to make sure the shape and placement are correct. I will sew a few stitches, pull it tight, sew a few stitches, pull it tight, etc. Also, you want the fleece at the connection points of the arms and legs to roll inwards ever so slightly as you start so that it naturally folds inward as you sew/tighten. To help this, I actually knot the thread onto the fleece of the arm/leg finishing with the needle and thread being pushed through to the outside of the fleece about 1/8 down from the fabric edge. Then start stitching. Also, doubling up the thread or using a thicker thread can help so that it doesn't snap as you're tightening.

It's definitely tricky to get them to look good but if you have a non-permanent guide line, use fine stitches (about 8-10 per inch), keep pulling taught every few stitches, and go slow, it starts to come together. Here's a quick drawing, though I a definitely not a good artist by any definition.

View attachment 1908084
Hmmmmmm. Do you think it’s possible to cut holes for the arms and legs on the fleece pattern and whipstitch from there? (before you slip on the fleece on the foam body) Or would that make it look weird? I was thinking of doing it this way but I have no clue if it’s a good idea or not. Also thanks for all the advice!
 
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