JUst picked up a CC x-wing, just a quick question

Gigatron

Gigatron

Sr Member
Hey gang,

like the title says, I just finally snagged a CC x-wing after years of trying (thanks again, Chewie15 :cool).

I have a bunch of hi-res pics from the Red 3 filming model that's on tour. So here's the question; is that an accurate model to copy (i.e. was it altered after filming) or would dvd screen caps be better? For reference, I also have the HD versions saved to my DVR.

The reason I ask is that the Red 3 model's cockpit doesn't look like the other's that I've seen painted up around here (at least color-wise).

To date, this is going to be the largest model I've ever built and painted (which you would think make it easier), so I really need to do this kit justice.

I have read most of the threads around here (at least the ones that still have pics in them) and have read JDH's/blockhead's website a dozen times since I found out I was finally getting a kit. It seems like everyone has their own take on how to paint it up.

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Fred
 
I havent gotten to painting mine yet but I found that getting the fuselage to fit flush together took some work. Soaking in hot water and then weighting them down on a flat surface overnight flattened them up for a better fit.

And the hyperdyne lighting kit is to die for.
 
Fred, I've found that technique matters far less than results. Use the techniques that work for you. If you like how it's looking then you're on the right path!

Don't obsess over color choices either. I don't! I look at references, screencaps and the like. I get in the ballpark of how I think they should look based on averaging and taking into account how lighting, film stock, compositing, monitor adjustments on my end, and how variations in paint colors from the very same company as well as my own perception of color can affect what I see. Everyone perceives color differently. I learned that truth during the time I worked developing film and making prints in a photo lab.

Yes, larger models are actually harder to detail for scale than smaller ones! This one is heavy; some things might frustrate you, but building these IS a fun experience.

One thing I do, if I have any doubt as to the stress a join is going to take, is to reinforce the mating surfaces with steel pins and epoxy although that's not technically necessary.... I tend to overbuild as I'm a carpenter first and a modeler second! It never hurts to add metal to a model where you think it will need it.

Best advice? Take your time! Enjoy yourself and don't get intimidated by anyone else's builds... There's a lot of us who can't wait to see what you do with one of these.

Have fun!
 
Yeah what Bob said, its your first, so have a little fun and take your time.
Putting the extra effort and research can make any CC/Salzo look just killer!
It also depends on what Red 3 your going to replicate, the studio ANH mini, or the 4ft model.
These are two totally different animals, but to replicate the 4ft, just check out Monsieur Tox (Juliens) and REL (Rich's) builds, they both portray this bird amazingly!
As for colors, depends again on what your painting, Floquil, Pollyscale and Tamiya all do colors that will fit your needs, Floquil being the best choice,but harder too come by (at least here in England).
Primers again are a matter of preference, but i went for a matt black base overcoated with gloss white.
This was then rubbed heavily with fine steel wool, but that fitted into how i wanted my model to look like, paint yours how YOU want it to look!
Good luck with the build, and were always here to help along the way, not letting other builds intimidate you is a good piece of advice, just have a ball and use your reference well.

bests.......lee
 
Thanks for all the advice, guys :thumbsup.

I really can't wait to get going on this kit. I just started working on a 1/48 P-47D Thunderbolt Razorback, so it may be a few weeks. But it'll give me time to organize referrence material and make some decisions.

Once I get started, I'll try to make a photo log of the build.

-Fred
 
Ok, one more question. I was just lining up the kit to see if there was any warpage when I noticed this odd discrepancy

PICT0001copy.jpg


Is the bottom half supposed to be that much wider than the top half? If not how do I fix it? If I can't fix it, then what?

Please advise.

Thanks,
Fred
 
Gigatron said:
Ok, one more question. I was just lining up the kit to see if there was any warpage when I noticed this odd discrepancy

PICT0001copy.jpg


Is the bottom half supposed to be that much wider than the top half? If not how do I fix it? If I can't fix it, then what?

Please advise.

Thanks,
Fred
Click to expand...
It is suppose to be that way
 
Thanks, guys :D

After I posted that, I started digging in old, old threads. I finally found a picture that showed these things from the top. Utnil then, I had never noticed a step in the fuselage.

It's odd the things you can miss if you don't know what to look for.

On another note, did these kits come with instructions? I really have no idea where some of the smaller greeblies go. Maybe somoeone has an instruction sheet, or know of online instructions. That would be really helpful.

Thanks,
Fred
 
Be careful how the wings are mounted on those blocks too, they need to mount all the way forward. I have seen one or two out there mounted full aft.

And R2 unit needs a little lift to be screen accurate. He rides alittle low otherwise.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the tips, CD.

How is everyone else attaching the wings to the blocks? I was thinking of drilling holes and using some threaded rod and 2 part epoxy to pin them on.

I'd love to hear any other building tips from those with the experience.

-Fred
 
Gigatron said:
Thanks for the tips, CD.

How is everyone else attaching the wings to the blocks? I was thinking of drilling holes and using some threaded rod and 2 part epoxy to pin them on.

I'd love to hear any other building tips from those with the experience.

-Fred
Click to expand...


KGrt52.jpg


Steel pins in the 'foils and sockets in the wing blocks with brass sleeves.
 
Gigatron said:
Thanks for the tips, CD.

How is everyone else attaching the wings to the blocks? I was thinking of drilling holes and using some threaded rod and 2 part epoxy to pin them on.

I'd love to hear any other building tips from those with the experience.

-Fred
Click to expand...

If this model is never going to move you CAN get away with using just CA glue. I dont recommend it but the first one of these I built back in the day I did not pin the wings and never had a problem with them.

When I sold it to a guy in France he did the same thing and has not had any problems either.

So you can just glue them but pinning is worth the extra time.

Greg

BTW it is good to see that people are still downloading those videos. Makes me all warm and fuzzy.
 
For longevity's sake, I'd pin them. CA embrittles with age and is much less resistant to sheer stress. It's very resistant to pull stress, however... but sheer stress is a constant factor where heavy S-foils put constant strain on the join at the wing blocks.

I agree with Greg. It's worth the extra time to pin the joins.
 
Even if I weren't pinning them, I'd go with 5 minute, 2 part epoxy. CA is waaay to brittle for my liking. Only time I use it in modeling is for attaching photo etched parts to a kit.

-Fred
 
As Lee said there are 2 models of red 3. The 2 ft and the 4 ft (probably you get ref of this one that's why the cockpit is not the same).
The painting is completely different, if you go for the 2 ft, use the Lee's method, gloss white coat over a black primer coat. If you're going to replicate the 4ft paint scheme, gloss white is not necessary, only white over a black coat.
Here 2 pics of mine : http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h203/monsieurtox/?action=view&current=x-wing73.jpg
http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h203/monsieurtox/?action=view&current=x-wing77.jpg

I agree with Bob, more is always than less... I did not add pins but big screws with bolt (but that's the same result) and I used CA and 2 parts expoy to glue them. Just CA should work as stated Greg, but just to be sure... And if you move it a lot (exhibitions etc...) It's better for durability !
 
Does anyone have any suggestions for the tubing that can be seen in the full size cockpit during DS trench run scene?

I was thinking of handwinding some different diameter copper wires, but if anyone knows of some premade tubing, that would probably be easier.

Thanks,
Fred
 
Gigatron said:
Does anyone have any suggestions for the tubing that can be seen in the full size cockpit during DS trench run scene?

I was thinking of handwinding some different diameter copper wires, but if anyone knows of some premade tubing, that would probably be easier.

Thanks,
Fred
Click to expand...

Don't do that.... simply obtain a front or rear main seal at an auto parts store. The springs inside are perfect for hoses. Guitar cable works well for the smaller diameters. The problem with wound copper wire is that it looks like wound wire, especially when bent or formed around corners.

No... you need springs!
 
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