Judge Badge First prop build...Need some advice on mold making


New Member

I know others on here have done this project already, but I figured it would be an easy project for a first time build. I have never done anything like this before, but have always wanted one of these badges since I saw movie made in 1995. What really made me take the leap is a new bar opened in the Dayton area called ProtoBuild Bar. They have a bunch of 3D printers, electronics build space, and the world largest claw machine.

So I whipped up the model, and they printed it out for me.

IMG_0661.JPG IMG_0662.JPG
Here is how it came out. Now my intent is to use this as a master for a silicone mold so I can produce several of these for family members. After I got home I started doing more research on the mold making process and I am now wondering / concerned if this will work.

This pic shows that when I created the 3d model I separated all the objects by 1/32 space. I did not however contemplate how deep the valleys would be between these objects. I do not know if the silicone will be able to get down into the valleys. Will this work for making a silicone mold or did I just blow $40?

Any help would greatly appreciated.

Thank You.


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Active Member
That'll work for a silicon mold. You could even cold cast it with bronze powder to make it look like a screen used badge.


New Member
Thanks Nixon. I was really concerned about the areas above and below the "M." I found stuff about the cold cast and I am definitely going to do that. Do you have an opinion on manufacturers, Smooth-on vs Alumilite?

I'll keep you up to date.


Well-Known Member
When doing a silicone mold over this and you are not pressure casting, your pouring technique will be vital. I would use a lower viscosity silicone. Look at Mold Star 20T (if you choose to use us)... easy to use, flows nice, degasses itself. You will want to mix the silicone deliberately but not whip it... double mix it in two clean containers then when you go to pour it, pour it from a high distance into the lowest part of the mold box in a long thin stream... allow the silicone to flow over your piece naturally... by doing this, you will have the silicone push the air as it flows over your piece.
Cold casting tutorial:
After having done a lot of these badges, I can say that your best friend would be to add some draft in the valleys for ease of molding. Pressure casting would be king in this case. Not only will you have a better mold to work with, but the silicone itself will be more solid as the majority of air within the mold will be evacuated. I cold cast all my badges, but be careful, the powder will also make the resin thicker and therefore, harder to flow within the valleys and gaps. If you make a new 3D model, I would suggest making the gaps wider as well.


New Member
Beaker--I have been looking heavily at Smooth-on product line. Do you work for Smooth-On? When I'm looking for a product and I want a lower viscosity do I want a higher or lower cps #.

MisterXero--Yea I wasn't really thinking when I made the model. With each 3D print being $40 bucks I'd like to try and press one with this piece. I don't have the funds for a pressure casting system at this time. I'm only planning on doing 3-4 total castings. Forgive me, but what do you mean by "drafts." Are you meaning to fill the Valley's? This idea intrigues me, but now the question would I what to use.

Thank you for your in sites and suggestions


Sr Member
Forgive me, but what do you mean by "drafts." Are you meaning to fill the Valley's? This idea intrigues me, but now the question would I what to use.

Thank you for your in sites and suggestions

Simply put, "Draft" means angles on the 90 degree verticals. Like this:


Instead of straight vertical walls, you angle them so the rubber comes out easier.


New Member
I'm wondering what 3D program you're using? I'm building a badge is 3D Studio Max just like this but it says "Banjo" in the name area.
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