Issues with Tomenosuke OG Edition blaster

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timschiro01

New Member
Has anyone had any issues with the cylinder not properly rotating when the trigger is pulled? I just received my OG Edition blaster and the cylinder only rotated 2 or 3 times, then stops. I have to eject it, turn it by had, then put it back in only for it to only turn 2 or 3 more times. The mechanism seems to be working and it doesn’t look like there’s anything broken or worn away on the cylinder, so I’m not sure what’s causing it. This is my first Tomenosuke, so I don’t know if this is a common issue or not.

I’m hoping there’s a simple fix because I really don’t feel like exchanging it

Thanks in advance everyone!
 

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Trooper_trent

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It's pretty common. There have been different solutions to fix it from simply oiling the mechanism with gun oil (worked for me) to putting a tiny shim in that puts back pressure on the cylinder so it's tighter against the back plate (the tolerances are a bit loose since it's plastic and a toy). Also having the shells in the cylinder for added weight seems to help some people.
 

ecl

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
On the one I used to have, the big screw–although most people used the other knob– on the opposite side of the cylinder would 'catch' on the cylinder from inside, if screwed in too far. The screw also sort of would turn on its own, loosening and tightening from the vibrations of the moving cylinder. At the time it took me a while to figure out just what was happening. Probably not what's happening on yours, but this was a quirk with my build; not sure if this affects every piece.
 

Trooper_trent

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
On the one I used to have, the big screw–although most people used the other knob– on the opposite side of the cylinder would 'catch' on the cylinder from inside, if screwed in too far. The screw also sort of would turn on its own, loosening and tightening from the vibrations of the moving cylinder. At the time it took me a while to figure out just what was happening. Probably not what's happening on yours, but this was a quirk with my build; not sure if this affects every piece.
Ahh! yes I forgot about that one.
Also, you want to watch really closely to see what's happening. Is the tooth coming out when you pull the trigger but it's just not grabbing the cylinder every time? then you need to somehow adjust the cylinder so it is closer and catches better.
Or is the tooth not coming out each time? that's a problem with something in the mechanism sticking and probably something as simple as gun oil will fix it.
 

timschiro01

New Member
Ahh! yes I forgot about that one.
Also, you want to watch really closely to see what's happening. Is the tooth coming out when you pull the trigger but it's just not grabbing the cylinder every time? then you need to somehow adjust the cylinder so it is closer and catches better.
Or is the tooth not coming out each time? that's a problem with something in the mechanism sticking and probably something as simple as gun oil will fix it.
Thanks for all the advice! The tooth is coming out every time, but I think it just isn’t always catching. I was looking to see if there was a way to adjust the cylinder but I didn’t see anything. Do you know if there are any instructions anywhere for that? A google search didn’t turn up anything
 

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timschiro01

New Member
On the one I used to have, the big screw–although most people used the other knob– on the opposite side of the cylinder would 'catch' on the cylinder from inside, if screwed in too far. The screw also sort of would turn on its own, loosening and tightening from the vibrations of the moving cylinder. At the time it took me a while to figure out just what was happening. Probably not what's happening on yours, but this was a quirk with my build; not sure if this affects every piece.
Thanks for the tip! I gave it a shot but it looks like it doesn’t go all the way through to the chamber on this model. I still loosened it just to make sure, but no luck
 

BADsnack

New Member
Has anyone had any issues with the cylinder not properly rotating when the trigger is pulled? I just received my OG Edition blaster and the cylinder only rotated 2 or 3 times, then stops. I have to eject it, turn it by had, then put it back in only for it to only turn 2 or 3 more times. The mechanism seems to be working and it doesn’t look like there’s anything broken or worn away on the cylinder, so I’m not sure what’s causing it. This is my first Tomenosuke, so I don’t know if this is a common issue or not.

I’m hoping there’s a simple fix because I really don’t feel like exchanging it

Thanks in advance everyone!
hey there, So if you take the left cover plate off. the one with the sight attached to it. Watch your cylinder as it spins....see if its rubbing the barrel if you know what I mean. The barrel sticks in to the inside of the frame to come as close as possible to the cylinder. so when fired as little debris escapes that gap. it might be rubbing. These kits are not real firearms and not crafted with the same amount of detail. They are model kits essentially so these things happen. no ones life depends on it LOL.

It could be anything from a weird tooth on the ejector. The hand turns the ejector and rotates the cylinder......Start where I previously mentioned and just go through the process of elimination. Hope that helps!!!
 

timschiro01

New Member
hey there, So if you take the left cover plate off. the one with the sight attached to it. Watch your cylinder as it spins....see if its rubbing the barrel if you know what I mean. The barrel sticks in to the inside of the frame to come as close as possible to the cylinder. so when fired as little debris escapes that gap. it might be rubbing. These kits are not real firearms and not crafted with the same amount of detail. They are model kits essentially so these things happen. no ones life depends on it LOL.

It could be anything from a weird tooth on the ejector. The hand turns the ejector and rotates the cylinder......Start where I previously mentioned and just go through the process of elimination. Hope that helps!!!
It does seem like the barrel may be rubbing against the cylinder! I don’t really see a way to adjust this though. Is there a way that I can move the cylinder back away from the barrel? Or would this require sanding down the barrel?
 

Trooper_trent

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
you can sand it back BUT make sure that doing that is not going to make it worse! The barrel pushing against the cylinder is what pushes it back enough for the tooth to grab it. if you sand the barrel back, then the cylinder will be looser might make it so that the tooth can't grab it at all.

Also make sure the screw that mounts the trigger guard (which also hold the cylinder in ) is tight so there is minimal wiggling. that can also help it press back towards the tooth better.
 

BADsnack

New Member
It does seem like the barrel may be rubbing against the cylinder! I don’t really see a way to adjust this though. Is there a way that I can move the cylinder back away from the barrel? Or would this require sanding down the barrel?
It would be easiest to probably start with the base of the cylinder. Since you can remove the cylinder to work on it. The barrel has that metal insert in there if you look inside. When you swing the cylinder out, you can see. I imagine you have seen the little metal piece inside the barrel in there. That's why I say the cylinder is probably your best bet. You could start with the barrel inside there, if you don't want to possibly mess with the finish of the cylinder. So that choice is yours. If oil isn't helping, I would try sanding it down a bit then testing, sanding, testing....etc. So, sand it flat a bit then try to polish it up a bit. Some 2000 grit sand paper would give a nice smooth finish. The smoother the better. It might wear the black off the bottom of the cylinder by doing this. but that's nothing a little paint wouldn't fix if it bothered you. If it turns out just to give it a worn-out look, maybe keep it ya know? The real prop is WORN OUT bigtime....and looks super good that way.

Before you start, obviously check a few things just to make sure it is actually the issue. This is actually a pretty common issue......but just to be sure check everything.

Check your cylinder crane arm screw that goes in the front. The crane arm is what the cylinder rotates out on....or swings out on. The screw that holds that arm in should be checked to make sure its not loose. I've also heard that simply putting in the dummy rounds makes it rotate properly. The added weight gives it some momentum when rotating and fixed that issue. Mine rotates no problem when empty or rounds inserted. But some have seen this with theirs.

Make sure the hand is pushing up properly with each trigger pull. Make sure the rod that screws through the cylinder is tight. That rod, if loosened and taken off is what will allow you to remove the cylinder altogether.

Another way to check to be sure where the friction is coming from.....is to pull the trigger slightly to free the cylinder. Spin the cylinder with your fingers and try to feel which end the friction is on. Which side do you feel resistance coming from....firing pin side, or the barrel side.....make sense? That might help identify where the main issue is.

Anyway, I know this was long so I hope all this ends up helping! Any other questions, ask away I'll help as best I can!

~Bryan
 

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