Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

I guess you won't find much help with this attitude, writing in capslock and all that.

Lots of info are in this thread. You can also find tutorials on youtube and on arduino forums.

You'll find help here but only if you come with precise questions and not "I want to do this and that, do it for me please, thanks, bye". (and I know, I asked many questions and pretty sure I'm a pain in the butt sometime ^^).

Electronics require to take your time understanding the basics. I had no idea how a transistor works a few month ago and now I've designed my board (50mm x 13mm)

i.png
 
DevilFlash said:
I guess you won't find much help with this attitude, writing in capslock and all that.

Lots of info are in this thread. You can also find tutorials on youtube and on arduino forums.

You'll find help here but only if you come with precise questions and not "I want to do this and that, do it for me please, thanks, bye". (and I know, I asked many questions and pretty sure I'm a pain in the butt sometime ^^).

Electronics require to take your time understanding the basics. I had no idea how a transistor works a few month ago and now I've designed my board (50mm x 13mm)

http://uploads.oshpark.com/uploads/project/top_image/Q3gLcwUk/i.png
Click to expand...


you could also put ALL components on the BOTTOM side.. and have ONLY the leds on the top..

for a cleaner/smoother appearance.. no wires in front..or resistors..etc



similar to mine (as I believe thats what your after..with the same shape/approach?)

Ironman_eyeCircuit_v1.jpg

IM_eyeCircuit_pics_-005_sized.jpg

IM_eyeCircuit_pics_-006_sized.jpg


IM_eyeCircuit_pics_-001_sized.jpg

IM_eyeCircuit_pics_-003_sized.jpg

IM_eyeCircuit_pics_-004_sized.jpg



I like this approach as it makes the eye circuit more or less 'stand alone'... can be used/controlled by any micro controller you want
 
Yeah, it's my first board and I've still a lot to learn. I wanted something simple so I put everything on the same layer (still have to figure how to associate component to layer...I'll look on specialized forum or eagle tutorials) and keep most of the board used by the LEDs. I've still 40mm used only by LEDs, I guess it's enough for the eye socket (mine is 60mm wide so with diffusion, it's enough).

Next time I'll try a more elaborate board (same shape as the eye, leds on one side and the rest on the bottom,...) but I wanted to test, still a bit anxious with the results I'll receive. I'd be happy if the board works, will try other designs if it works. One step after the other! :) That's the way to learn (from the mistakes ^^).

Are you using 1206 or 0603 smd LEDs? I send you a message concerning the brightness of the SMD LEDs and what you would advice to take, maybe that could interest other people here.
 
in Eagle.. when you have a part selected.. CLICK your mouse wheel.. it will 'mirror' he part to the opposite layer.. and you can drop it there..

I do the same 'trick' when routing... click mouse wheel.. and it will AUTO add a via for you..and continue the trace on the opposite plane..

I think I used 1206 leds..

but it was a quick test board.. and to be honest I dont think I calculated in the transistor 'drop' in voltage when doing the resistors.. (so it may be a bit on the dimmer side?)

still have several blank pcb's left to use/play with/sell.. (Might add a voltage regulator on the next version)

I think it goes by MCD rating for brightness of leds? I usually grab color packs off of ebay..

or digikey when I need 100+ of any given color at a time.
 
I searched ebay for LED and yeah, for brightness it goes by MCD. But sometimes you have no information on this. It only says "super bright". And you can find super bright LED with 450 MCD - 2000 MCD - 3000 MCD. All of these are labelled "super bright" so it's more or less a guess game ^^

The standard superbright LED (3-5-10 mm) are 8.000 - 10.000 MCD in general.

In fact, I often curse the seller on ebay. :) It often misses either the brightness value either the color temperature (warm or cold white).

Thank you for the hints to swap components on bottom layer! I'll post a picture of the eye when everything's done.
 
guess game = correct.

especially on Ebay.. doesnt matter really.. could be mis-labeled/or just plain old WRONG specs listed anyways..
 
Hi everyone! First I'm sorry for my bad english but I'm french :D
Good job for the clear tutorial but I have a problem. I realize the pattern exactly as described in post 1 with exactly the same component exept the servo motor, i use this one : BMS-616MGplusHS Super Strong Servo (Mos-FET) for buggy 10.2kg / .12sec / 46.5g and my problem is that when push the button nothing happens, the LED stay ON but the servo does not move, no movement, nothing. I'm pressing the button several times but nothing happens.
I have no idea what could be my problem :( that is why I ask you for help!

Thank you in advance :)
 
post pictures of your set-up..
not what you THINK YOU DID.. but what is actually wired up in front of you. :)
 
well its hard to tell but ...

1.) I dont see how your powering this? where is the battery set-up?
2.) it LOOKS as if you are trying to power the servos from the +3.3v pin on the Arduino?
3.) looks like both +3.3v & +5v are connected form Arduino to breadboard?


Did you read this thread? or follow any of the diagrams posted?
If you had you would know everyone keeps saying DO NOT POWER THE SERVOS from the Arduino..
you need to power your Arduino....(through whatever..battery pack Im assuming since its going into a prop)
you also need to power the SERVOS form said battery pack.. (ensure you regulate the voltage source down to around 4.8v-6v depending on your servo needs)

there is also NO resistor on you led? (not good)..

in the end you'll use more than 1 led anyways.. so working out how to use a transistor to toggle/fade them is probably best..

I keep saying it.. "I" personally think the first post has MIS/BAD information.

1.) no resistor on the led(s)
2.) powering servos from +5v line from Arduino..

not to take away from the OP (7Sinzz)..

but he started this thread as a 'tutorial'.. but really it was a post for help/discussion..
he didnt know very much about Arduino or there other stuff until the thread start getting other people sharing/helping out... 'making it a community Q/A tutorial' more or less..

they info has varied and has touched on many personal projects as well as general answers/help/info...

Im not sure how valid any of that stuff is, if it going to be updated with the best practices posted here.

IMHO.. my suggestion is to follow one of the other posts/code/diagrams here..
 
I use a 7.4V 2200mAh Lipo battery for power.
The servo is connected to the +5 v, the photo was taken at an angle that's why we believe that is connected to the 3.3v.
I tried several code from this thread, and the one working the "best" is the one memebr's. The LED perfectly fade, but the servo does not move (maybe as you said i must power them aside) and I have removed the power wire (pin +5 v) for the LED turns ON, my button does not seem to have any effect.
Anyway thank you for you're answer, what code / diagrams you advise me to get out of this situatiuon?
 
Try to modify the value for maximum and minimum range of the servos in the code. Very few servo can effectively turn from 0° to 180°.

Memebr did a really good work on his code but there's always things to tweak (code is personnal and will vary for every servos/setup/...). Maybe try min-max value as 20-160° or so. Give it another try. Double check the setup (don't mix analog and digital pins, check in the code if the pins used are the same as on the breadboard,...)

XL97 got the rest covered.
 
your servo might need more current that the Arduino can provide.. (I hope you didnt burn it out)

you need to power the servo with +4.8v - +6v (depending on your servo) from a regulated source, NOT the Arduino board..

look at this:
IronMan_circuitLayout_xl97.jpg


(ignore the switch wiring.. as that is where myself & memebr's wiring differs....and the code also supports those differences)

the Arduino is NOT powering anything... it only has signal/control lines going to specific components..

*make sure you regulate the +7.4v battery before going to the servo's.. you'll probably burn them up..

(follow the diagram) :)
 
Ok! I'm back! So I followed your diagram XL97 (I just have not put the following items: .33 UF and 0.1UF because I do not have them at all) and I used the code memebr modify Devilflash (on facebook ) and here the result:
- the LEDs are less bright
- the button respond well but the activation of servo frequency is too random, indeed basic LEDs will be ON but the servo will be activated in a period that can varied between 1 second and 10, and I say ONE SERVO because only one move, the second is in the open position and do not want to close.
I have to "force" manually into position close, and only has this condition the servo moves to the open position once supported the first servo button.
(If pictures needed i'll edit my post)
 
always post pics. :)

hmmm.....not sure..

servos:

one may be broken (internally)..gear perhaps?

do you have the ALL gnds connected.. battery/Arduino/servos?

leds:
what value resistor are you using on them?
is the voltage regulator a +5v one?

do you have transistors? in the circuit?
 
Last edited:
dentingleopard said:
ok lets forget about the sound and the feet but is there any way just to turn the lights on and off with a powering up and down fx
Click to expand...

you say no sound.. then what power up/down FX are you talking about?

I'm sure almost anything can be arranged.. depends on your time, motivation and funds.. :)
 
gbmaster137 said:
ok, so this is how i have everything wired up, i've quadruple-check times 100 and everything is correct

View attachment 229954

and im using the light flicker code, haven't change anything in the code and this always happens

http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCW4tSi0L9g&feature=youtu.be
Click to expand...


I still DO NOT see you powering the servos from the battery??

I see a USB plugged into Arduino powering THAT..??

and I see you (again) having +5v and GND -from- Arduino powering the rails of the breadboard..
if that is the case.. it is (again) wrong.

battery pack >>>>> +5v regulator >>>> servos.

the only wires you should have coming from the Arduino are the signal/control lines...

2-switch
5-led (which has no resistor,...still)
10-servo1
11-servo2

Im not sure why youre NOT doing what everyone keeps telling you to do?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

NakedMoleRat
D23 Iron Man motorized faceplate helmet.
Replies
1
Views
317
KSKS
KSKS
paxtoprime94
Idea for Iron Man Suit that you can step right in/out of
Replies
1
Views
464
renaissance_man
renaissance_man
paxtoprime94
“FABRIC” IRON MAN SUIT? (Fabric-covered foam?)
Replies
2
Views
556
Kolin86
Kolin86
H
Wolverine’s Dog Tags
Replies
0
Views
242
Howlett76
H
Marthony
Iron Man 2020 build - motors for shoulder gears please!
Replies
0
Views
245
Marthony
Marthony
Back
Top