Informal Poll about OWK Ep1 Saber project

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Darth Lars

Master Member
I wouldn't do anodized aluminum. If I did aluminum, It would be raw and buyers would paint it.
The emitter rings and the black grip both slide into outer shrouds, and if the black paint is too thick, it might get scratched and/or not fit inside. (I know this from putting together my own OWK Ep1 saber ...)
Paint on aluminium can get scuffed off quite easily, especially if primer is not used. Primer for aluminium needs a freshly sanded surface to bite, so it can be a bit tricky to do.
By having the black parts in black plastic or black-anodised aluminium to begin with, you'd avoid this problem.
 

eethan

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I wish I could, but my stunt saber has some damage to the pommel and and the seam had some misalignment when they pulled it. There's too much shrinkage and distortion with each molding, it would be impossible to get consistency in the castings that would work with a machined aluminum sleeve.
The reason why I do delrin is to get as close to the original material as possible while still maintain a high degree of machining accuracy. It actually gets us closer to the original then a resin casting off one would ;)
thank you for the detailled explaination, that's nice to read.
I will put my vote too then and go for mixed materials :)
cheers for another great future offering from you to the community
 

parfaitelumiere

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
delrin and aluminum,this way, no paint needed like the run you made several years ago, but with inner mod to avoid the weird assembly using 3/8" threaded rod.
I think you should be able to keep original assembly design, like original prop, but making a hollow core, the inner aluminum part can be a partial tube and the delrin part can be opened on the aluminum covered side; leaving a lot of room inside.
You can make twofronts, one withhole for 7/8" or 1" blade other with a real 1"1/2 washer and 3/8" clear part in middle for light effect, all ok same accurate emitter design, only the washer would be different.
it means as example a 1"1/4 inner diameter to put one or other.
 

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teecrooz

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here are some pictures of the aluminum and delrin run from years ago.

I need to replace the o-ring, but as a display piece, it’s amazing.

B47542F5-D270-455C-979A-B4A327B289A1.jpeg
C7A6AE3C-8F62-4444-A2F6-657052AD795F.jpeg
96A050A7-74F7-49AC-91BC-1BA5633AA65F.jpeg
2721B943-237F-46C4-BD84-F16BF25E3C6E.jpeg
574795E3-9175-4F23-A686-48B89C3C24C0.jpeg
EB199AF5-30BF-43B1-AE78-2131DA1D7D32.jpeg
971D4877-8432-48AC-B73C-5A8E704386FC.jpeg
3FFDE9A4-EB70-4404-A4D4-C3BD53809CD8.jpeg
 

xl97

Master Member
after the machining... looks like the powder coating on the pommel. (y)

* still not as hard (easily scratched) as AL.. but looks good.
 

teecrooz

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
after the machining... looks like the powder coating on the pommel. (y)

* still not as hard (easily scratched) as AL.. but looks good.

I agree, anodized aluminum would hold up better as an FX saber. People will likely be assembling and disassembling and sparring. Delrin is more brittle and would scratch easier than aluminum. Since I’m not doing any of those things, I’m fine with the more accurate material over a robust material, but I understand why people would want them. It does make more sense for an FX.
 

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