I need one more Sabacc credit, please help.

[greenmachines]

No go on finding an 8 by 11 grid with already folded sides so back to the previous plan of making one from perf stock. You just need the hole measurements.

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

I found this on eBay. Looks about the right size but silver, could not find any brass. The grid pattern is 8 squares wide by 11 long, with the corners cut out to just 2 squares wide at 3 deep on each end. I may have to order this (now that I have a job again, corporate America sucks when when your in administration) and do some backyard electroplating.

3/8 SQUARE HOLE ON 1/2" CENTERS PERFORATED METAL 16 GA.- STEEL--- 6" X 6" | eBay

3/8" SQUARE HOLE ON 1/2" CENTERS. 16 GAUGE--PLAIN STEEL COLD ROLLED.

www.ebay.com

I know this goes against the hardcore ethos of the boards of tracking down the exact model of the smallest things, but I would settle with getting this and using that to make the prop. It's such a minor thing, that I'd even embellish it further to suit my own tastes.

 

[division 6]

This is another type of credit/item used as a stake in the lodge is the "cage crystal token." I've included a photo of the official props used in Solo.

The materials used were 16ga plain perforated steel with 3/8" on center squares. Cutting and bending it is pretty easy and straightforward. I then heat-stained it as well as brass-coated it with a brass wire brush wheel while still hot. Lastly, I used a corrosive solution used in scale modeling to simulate rust deposits and brushed off the excess residue when dry.

The base is a wooden block cut to size and stained/painted black and top-coated with a gloss varnish. The screws are M10 1" button-head torx screws with M4 washers. There are two more sizes of this token represented on the Sabacc table. One that's one square grid wider, and one that's a grid narrower. All three also have the screws/washers on the longer sides instead of the shorter ends. I went with the one pictured at the exhibit.

Now, the crystals were where I really didn't know which route to take initially. First, I wanted to grab a bunch of rocks, mold them, cast a whole lot in resin, paint them up, and be done with it. I didn't wanna deal with seams or detail-less faces on the rocks. Being a geologist, I also had a few red-colored minerals in mind but most are either expensive or just don't fit the bill in appearance. Ultimately, I decided to grab a handful of white marble gravel from the front yard and gave them a nice base coat of Rustoleum Apple Red, then dry brushed some magenta/pinkish mid-tones, and orange highlights with Vallejo paints. The dry brush step really dials down the satin finish of the base coat and makes it look like a natural mineral and not paint.

Looking at them side by side, I think it turned out great.

Post #333 in the credits and coinage thread.

 

[NakedMoleRat]

This is correct. Your original picture is a stamped/punched and custom flat steel. The corners were not cut afterward, they were included in the original punch. The gold color is a treatment chemical used on many non-stainless steel parts to partially waterproof them, "Zinc Electroplate" (not galvanized). The reason I say the corners were not cut from a larger sheet is because there are no grinds to clean up what would have been removed. It is a totally clean, custom die cut. Like this sketch....

View attachment 1824881


The sides were then folded down. The original metal is just a standard silverish sheet steel with the added coating that yellows it. If not made specifically for this project, it is a parts cage for electronics that may otherwise be fragile. But without a doubt, it is a die-cut flat steel sheet that has been zinc electroplated and then bent or bent then electroplated.

This is what the chemical treatment looks like on a bolt:

View attachment 1824882


I am looking for a ready made version on mcmaster-carr

Wow, and thanks so much.

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

I know this goes against the hardcore ethos of the boards of tracking down the exact model of the smallest things, but I would settle with getting this and using that to make the prop. It's such a minor thing, that I'd even embellish it further to suit my own tastes.

That’s not the ethos of this board. This board was was built on not only people locating camera flashes to build lightsaber hilts but also those going out and cutting their own from sink pipe. The desired replication of a prop or costume within this community is different for each person. While some people may want to locate the exact item in order to make an on screen exact replica, the other value of finding the real part is having the correct data if you do decide to replicate the item or at the very least have the information of what is accurate so you know to what aspects you wish to deviate from. In many cases, I prefer to save what might be a costly found item and go for a replica made using a real item. The other pro of finding the real item is that it might be easier and cheaper than going through a replica process. But that not to say you can’t scrap all of that and just eyeball a photo and come up with a replica. This board values the insight, creativity, determination, and genuine love of real and replicated costume and props.

 

[TJJohn12]

So, doing a bit of Google-fu, I stumbled on cage fish feeders. I haven't found the exact same model yet, but both the scale and designs feel like this might be the right route to head down to figure out the original prop's found object:

EDIT - other names for these could be "method feeder"

 

[Halliwax]

So, doing a bit of Google-fu, I stumbled on cage fish feeders. I haven't found the exact same model yet, but both the scale and designs feel like this might be the right route to head down to figure out the original prop's found object:

EDIT - other names for these could be "method feeder"

View attachment 1824944


View attachment 1824945​

Wow!

 

[NakedMoleRat]

So, doing a bit of Google-fu, I stumbled on cage fish feeders. I haven't found the exact same model yet, but both the scale and designs feel like this might be the right route to head down to figure out the original prop's found object:

EDIT - other names for these could be "method feeder"

View attachment 1824944


View attachment 1824945​

They don’t look big enough. Just doing a quick hole count.

 

[greenmachines]

They don’t look big enough. Just doing a quick hole count.

8 holes by 11 holes, rectangle, prior to cutting out the 3x3 sections on each corner, is what you are needing to match from what I can see of the original.

 

[vanrk]

You can purchase these Steel perforated sheets in most hardware stores (normally come in 20inch x 10inch sheets), so it just needs to be cut to size and filed down. The black block under it appears to be of Resin material and the screw fixings are round ended Torx screws. As for the stones, although though they are red in color (making you think Sandstone) they have a slight glassy shine to it. Possible red quartz pieces.

 

[NakedMoleRat]

Here is my finished credit.

I got a 6 x 6 piece of the perforated metal. Cut it to size and bent it. And since I was flushing out my tankless water heater anyway, I threw it in the bucket and let the vinegar tarnish and age it.

I pulled a few rocks out of my landscaping and painted them red. I got a also wood block and some screws and washers. This project cost me about $25 in supplies.

 

[greenmachines]

Here is my finished credit.

I got a 6 x 6 piece of the perforated metal. Cut it to size and bent it. And since I was flushing out my tankless water heater anyway, I threw it in the bucket and let the vinegar tarnish and age it.

I pulled a few rocks out of my landscaping and painted them red. I got a also wood block and some screws and washers. This project cost me about $25 in supplies.


View attachment 1836976View attachment 1836977

solid work!!

 

[NakedMoleRat]

Thank you.