how to simulate or duplicate rivets?
- Thread starter takevin
- Start date
franz bolo
Sr Member
Some people use those small plastic eyes.
FB
FB
I used thumb tacks and small round-headed nails on my Boromir shield. I don't know it that would work for your project...
PM Firefox31- he knows some place that sells micro rivets to the model train guys by the thousands.
-Sarge
i'd be very curious about those links for some 1/35 scale rivets.
0.8mm diameter round holes computer cut into vinyl stencil material (which is thicker than normal vinyl and less adhesive). Spread some bondo or 5 minute epoxy into the holes - make sure there's no resin left outside the holes otherwise the rivet will get pulled off when you remove the vinyl. Also to make sure the cutter cuts a perfect circle this small the curve is drawn as an open arc of 540 degrees i.e it goes around 1 and a half times.
This is 1/32nd scale BTW
This is 1/32nd scale BTW
star-art
Sr Member
You, sir, are a genius! :eek That's precisely the sort of solution I've been searching for quite some time to find. (I am interested in making models of old style steel bridges where I need to make beams out of thin plastic and/or metal stock but need a quick and easy way to apply hundreds and hundreds of tiny rivets all at one time on each assembly.) Thanks very much! 
:thumbsup
:thumbsup
That's an awesome solution Jon!
Thomas
Thomas
Saw an ad for these in Tamiya Model Magazine:
http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html
raised details bonded to decal film. The treadplate and rivets might come in handy.
I might see if my epoxy and vinyl stencil trick works on decal film...
http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html
raised details bonded to decal film. The treadplate and rivets might come in handy.
I might see if my epoxy and vinyl stencil trick works on decal film...
Firefoxm31
Sr Member
Takevin,
To help I would need to know what kind of rivet head are you looking to reproduce and what diameter?
good "ole' trick" on the bondo rivet method.....there's others as well using the same process or simular and a certain glue as well, Vario USA used to offer a kit for this for their simulated rivets on helicopter fuselages(think Airwolf). Another method is transfering the rivet heads. The oldest method for round head rivets is 5 min epoxy. This of course is a freehand application and there are variations of this as well...
Sincerely,
Will
To help I would need to know what kind of rivet head are you looking to reproduce and what diameter?
good "ole' trick" on the bondo rivet method.....there's others as well using the same process or simular and a certain glue as well, Vario USA used to offer a kit for this for their simulated rivets on helicopter fuselages(think Airwolf). Another method is transfering the rivet heads. The oldest method for round head rivets is 5 min epoxy. This of course is a freehand application and there are variations of this as well...
Sincerely,
Will
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Don Jarr
Active Member
Hi m8
I have just built a 1:20th scale 1950 ish small cargo boat, and to simulate the 7000 or so rivets on the steel hull I used the heads cut off panel pins, then drilled the hull and inserted each one in place. (They actually look ok once painted.) As this was a wooden hull there was the depth to put the pins in. However I now plan on building a Engle Nautilus, but it needs lots of mods to get it screen accurate, and one of them is the 15000 odd rivets on the hull. For this I plan to use a thin metal stick with rounded end and dob epoxy resin on. (pendind scale to the thickness of the stick.) This is because the hull is fibreglass and if sanded with 2000 grade wet and dry sandpaper the epoxy will stick really well. As this is also going in the water you have to be carefull as a lot of the static model solutions for rivets don’t stand up to the water that well.
A couple of pictures of my riveted hull.
Don
I have just built a 1:20th scale 1950 ish small cargo boat, and to simulate the 7000 or so rivets on the steel hull I used the heads cut off panel pins, then drilled the hull and inserted each one in place. (They actually look ok once painted.) As this was a wooden hull there was the depth to put the pins in. However I now plan on building a Engle Nautilus, but it needs lots of mods to get it screen accurate, and one of them is the 15000 odd rivets on the hull. For this I plan to use a thin metal stick with rounded end and dob epoxy resin on. (pendind scale to the thickness of the stick.) This is because the hull is fibreglass and if sanded with 2000 grade wet and dry sandpaper the epoxy will stick really well. As this is also going in the water you have to be carefull as a lot of the static model solutions for rivets don’t stand up to the water that well.
A couple of pictures of my riveted hull.
Don
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KarlBud420
Well-Known Member
The picture links are pretty much broken, but trust me, this was an extremely impressive effect on a sub and it seems very fast and looks good:
http://www.therpf.com/showpost.php?p=311368&postcount=53
Bruce
http://www.therpf.com/showpost.php?p=311368&postcount=53
Bruce
GoldCylon1
Well-Known Member
That is some great work. Love the detail.Hi m8
I have just built a 1:20th scale 1950 ish small cargo boat, and to simulate the 7000 or so rivets on the steel hull I used the heads cut off panel pins, then drilled the hull and inserted each one in place. (They actually look ok once painted.) As this was a wooden hull there was the depth to put the pins in. However I now plan on building a Engle Nautilus, but it needs lots of mods to get it screen accurate, and one of them is the 15000 odd rivets on the hull. For this I plan to use a thin metal stick with rounded end and dob epoxy resin on. (pendind scale to the thickness of the stick.) This is because the hull is fibreglass and if sanded with 2000 grade wet and dry sandpaper the epoxy will stick really well. As this is also going in the water you have to be carefull as a lot of the static model solutions for rivets don’t stand up to the water that well.
A couple of pictures of my riveted hull.
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Darth Clouds
Well-Known Member
Hi,
1. Maybe you can check this site.
http://micromark.com/
2. Or you can try historex, I believe they have metal punch so that you can make micro nuts, bolts etc. from styrene. But I heard the metal punch is quite expensive and may go blunt after some usage so you may need a few of them if you decide to go this route.
Good luck to your project and may it bring you enjoyment in life.
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I am currently working on a project and need to simulate full size (1/2"-1/4) rivet heads. I was thinking of using craft beads, but so far can only find faceted ones. I also saw those googly eye things (that FranzBolo mentioned) and thought they would work, except I wouldn't want my prop to sound like a marracca when shaken. Has anyone used these before, and if so, is there an easy way to keep the inside part from moving around, other that removing it? I need several hundred and that would be rather time consuming to have to remove them.
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