How do you get an Ivory color resin?

[RelicMaker]

Hey guys, I was wanting to get all of your expertise in getting an ivory or meerschaum color resin. This is for the National Treasure Pipe project I'm doing. So, keep that in mind for it's color.
Tell me step-by-steps, measurements of die's to resins, Smooth-On or a better resin, etc...

I know Smooth-On has off-white resin, but I'm afraid it may be too off-white.

I'd appreciate your help on this.

Thanks,
Brenton

 

[exoray]

Alumilite's regular resin is pretty damn close to that color right out of the bottle... Maybe a little white pigment to tone it down, but it's close to bone/ivory...

 

[juno]

Have you seen Alumilite's off-white?

I think with an appropriate wash it would look like a good ivory.

Hehe -- that's what I get for running around the house looking for my bone folder to take a pic with an alumilite piece. Anyway, it's dead on to bone. Smooth-on is much darker.

 

[Hellclaw 01]

I asked a friend about this a short time ago in regard to another project. He is a professional moldmaker/caster. Here is the advice I got.

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Use Smooth On's colorcast series with pigments to achieve the color your looking for.

If you use raw resin, the urethane will likely yellow with age. Using pigment will give you better and longer lasting control over the color[/b]

 

[replicaprops]

I have your answer TASK from smooth -on, I used it and it looks like ivory

 

[Jedirick]

Any smooth-on resin in off-white will give a meershaum like look. Of course a meershaum pipe yellows with use and age. part of the art of owning a meershaum is getting it to age evenly or so that particular releif detail of the carving is better shown.

Smooth-on's white resins actually have a whitener in them and do not do well with tints whereas the off-whites are intended to be used with tints.

 

[FOURTH AMIGO]

If it were me, I'd go with Smooth On's 325, and their "So Strong" tints. The 325 works well and is made for tinting. It is a transparentish ambery color, and doesn't change color as it cures, so it is much easier to match your colors. All the lower 300 series resins change color from liquid to solid,so it is more difficult to match and takes alot more tint. A squirt of white and a tiny bit of yellow and maybe brown should get you close, of course it will take some experimentation. Depending on how well you set up/make your molds(ie fill time , venting and if you are pressurising your casts) will determine your resin. If you can get them filled quickly the 325 will do fine, if it takes you a little while, you may want to go with the 326, it has more work time. Good Luck.
Dave