Help with gluing clear styrene

[Oxnard montalvo]

Apologies if this is in the wrong thread, took a punt on this one as it's a general modelling enquiry...

I'm making some clear 'optical memory' chips to be used in a scratchbuild of the ST:TMP Tricorder. I want to sandwich a printed acetate design between two clear bits of styrene (I'll be using clear CD jewel case as I'm a cheapskate!). Can any wiser heads suggest the best glue to use for the whole thing to remain clear and not fogged? The chips will activate a switch which will shine an LED through them so I need them to remain clear, in order to pipe the light through the edges of the chip to the outside of the prop...

Thanks in advance any advice is greatfully received.....

 

[JNordgren42]

I'd probably try a clear epoxy based resin with a long setting time. Something like Alumilite Amazing Clear, it's formulated for casting, but I'm guessing it would hold flat surfaces together well. I'd personally do everything oversize, cut to final size once cured, and then sand and polish the outside surfaces. You may need to run a test or two to make sure the resin doesn't have a negative effect on the acetate and ink or toner though (bleeding, running, etc.).

Amazing Clear Cast Plus

Industry-leading UV resistance clear epoxy with a brilliant high-gloss durable surface. This clear epoxy is UV Stable, food safe, FDA compliant and easy to use.

www.alumilite.com

 

[KevinD]

PVA glue dries clear.

 

[PB Props]

In addition to the above suggestions, you could look at Canopy Glue - good for plastics, dries clear, no residue and its also fairly shock resistant.

 

[Madhatter]

Testors also do a specific clear glue as well aptly named "clear part cement"

 

[Rogviler]

Another suggestion: G&S Hypo watch crystal cement.

 

[Oxnard montalvo]

Thanks for all the suggestions! I tried a prototype earlier today with clear UV resin that we had hanging around and that has worked perfectly. Just waiting on the acetate now before I can continue. Should I do all three layers at the same time, or fix the acetate in place, cure it and then add the outer layer? Will I lose any clarity by doing it in two steps rather than all three layers at once?

 

[Bondo Fett]

WeldOn 16 for acrylics sounds like the stuff for you. Totally clear, slow set, and works with styrene and other plastics. Sort of goopy like the old Testors plastic cement. Sand/polish the edges after you bond the layers like JNordgren42 suggested. Find it at Amazon or Tap Plastics.

 

[star-art]

Glues are highly likely to run or get where you don't want them. If the design permits, you might consider using a clear adhesive tape along hidden edges. 3M makes some very useful tapes that can be as thin as just 5 thousandths of an inch. Some are "Very High Bond" (VHB) which means over time they may never let go.