Help reguarding primer on resin kit

[Jedi Dade]

If your primer is not "grabbing" even after washing - applying the base color on top is a recipe for disappointment. Self etching primer - a primer that will chemically "dig" into the surface to attach itself is the way to go.

As for the clear coat I've had great success with Tamiya clear coats... the Acrylic ones from Krylon and such tend to yellow over time (really bad effect if the paint is a light color like on Trek models). I've never had that happen with the Tamiya products. just a FYI.

Good Luck!

Jedi Dade

 

[GF]

Big Question! If I use self etching primer will it etch threw my currently applied primer?

If not I will need to strip down the primer, it comes off way too easily,
I scraped off the primer by barely touching the surface with my nail.

This is the 38" Super Star destroyer and it's fully assembled, there's a ton of fine detail. I stripped a few models in the past using Easy Off with succes but never on a model of such fine concentrated details, on a positive side this primer will come off with very little effort, also the edges of the model are very thin, will Easy off warp or weaken the fine details or should I use something else?

GFollano

 

[Treadwell]

It's not going to etch through the current primer. You need to strip off the first attempt.

 

[MustangGTR1]

It's not going to etch through the current primer. You need to strip off the first attempt.

I use that type of primer all the time, it will not hurt a thing. You will need to be outside when you shot it, because it has a wicked smell. Also you may want to, if all else fails try Bleech White for tires to clean it. I have been using it for many years as well...Kev :rolleyes

 

[Treadwell]

I use that type of primer all the time, it will not hurt a thing. You will need to be outside when you shot it, because it has a wicked smell. Also you may want to, if all else fails try Bleech White for tires to clean it. I have been using it for many years as well...Kev :rolleyes

So you're saying the etching primer will not only bond to the primer already on it, but work its way through that original unbonded layer and bond them both to the resin?

I'm no chemist or anything but that doesn't sound possible to me.

 

[MustangGTR1]

So you're saying the etching primer will not only bond to the primer already on it, but work its way through that original unbonded layer and bond them both to the resin?

I'm no chemist or anything but that doesn't sound possible to me.

It should with our a problem. It will not eat into plastic like what you think. It was made for metal and fiberglass, where you really have a slick surfface.
They also make a plastic sealer coat as well, this can also be gotten at most auto stores. It goes on clear and helps seal the surface.
When I build, I never use anything but auto paints. Also remember when you use paint out of a can, it is a softer paint then what you would airbrush with. It has to stay soft to come out of the can, or it would harden in side...Kev :wacko

 

[Gigatron]

Also remember when you use paint out of a can, it is a softer paint then what you would airbrush with. It has to stay soft to come out of the can, or it would harden in side...Kev :wacko

Ummm, what in the world is softer paint? The paint hardens when the carrier/solvent is allowed to evaporate (air exposure). Since the paint inside the can is under high pressure and is airtight, it would take years for the paint inside the can to dry out, since there is always going to be minimal carrier/solvent loss when you spray.

Aerosol automotive paints are lacquers mixed with a proportionate solvent (to keep it from clumping) and a liquid propellant, kept under extreme pressure to keep it that way (hence the Warning: Contents under pressure; Do Not puncture can, labels). The difference between the aerosol paint and the touch-up, brush on paints, is the lack of an aerosol propellant in the touch-up paint. Otherwise, same stuff.

-Fred

 

[GF]

So you're saying the etching primer will not only bond to the primer already on it, but work its way through that original unbonded layer and bond them both to the resin?

I'm no chemist or anything but that doesn't sound possible to me.

That's exactly what I would like to know. What self etching primer brand you recommend? it won't hurt to try on a small section. Maybe what MustangGTR1 meant by "softer" is thinner paint.

GFollano

 

[franz bolo]

Which Krylon Primer did you use??

The Grey is the best for me!! I have terrible results with the white!!

FB

 

[GF]

Which Krylon Primer did you use??

The Grey is the best for me!! I have terrible results with the white!!

FB

Krylon Grey primer, I use it regularly without any problems but didn't work well on this resin kit.

GFollano

 

[MustangGTR1]

Krylon Grey primer, I use it regularly without any problems but didn't work well on this resin kit.

GFollano

As to the softer paint, it can be under pressure but still softer. I worked with auto paints for 12 years. The new style of paint you can not even put in a can due to the kicker. Spray can paint just dont get as hard. It also will not hold up on a car outdoors like gun shot paint will.

Now to the primers. I use for a basic primer, Dupli-Color and thier Filler Primer as well. It comes in white,black,red,grey,yellow and green, ( if you can find the last two colors). I also use Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter. Also Primer Sealer as well. Dupli-Color makes the self eching primeras well, it is green. I have tried Bulldog adhesion promoter, which you can find at Wal-Mart. The draw back to it to me, is you have to shot your paint in a certain amount of time..
Also remeber when using a primer, the color of the primer will and can make a difference in the color of the paint. When I say this I mean, it can make the base coat look lighter or darker to a degree.
I have a very old 1/48 scale B-24 I try paints out on all the time, you may want to try the same thing on an old kit..Kev :$

 

[GF]

Ok successfully just stripped down the entire model using Easy Off, it worked very very well, the model is now ready to receive a new coat of primer, I will try out Dupli-color self etching primer, will let you guy's know how it works out.

Thank you!
GFollano

 

[vaderdarth]

GF, I also highly recommend duplicolor self etching primer. I've never had a problem with it. It is very difficult to get a primer to adhere properly to aluminum parts.........this one does it nicely. Sticks to resin like a charm.

Dave

 

[GF]

I want to thank everyone for your help,

The Self Etching Primer worked like a charm. I successfully stripped the model using Easy Off then used SEM Etching Primer. What a difference!
I will never use that Krylon crap again on resin kits

GFollano

 

[MustangGTR1]

I want to thank everyone for your help,

The Self Etching Primer worked like a charm. I successfully stripped the model using Easy Off then used SEM Etching Primer. What a difference!
I will never use that Krylon crap again on resin kits

GFollano

Krylon is made more for wood and plaster and crafts. It is good for certain things but not really good on resin, you need something that will bite a little..Kev :lol

 

[MustangGTR1]

Krylon is made more for wood and plaster and crafts. It is good for certain things but not really good on resin, you need something that will bite a little..Kev :lol

Oh, and by the way, gald it worked for you..Kev :thumbsup