Help a UK newbie?

[BritishCosplay]

Hello everyone

I am going to build a helmet,using pepukura, as a practice for my main cosplay but i need some help

I have no idea what to use for resin.However for bondo im using isopon p38,which is a polyester filler.What do i use for resin? Im so confused lol.

I also see people on youtube completing the fiberglass and resin section then creating a mould around there product. What is the purpose for this? Do i need too do it?

What kinds of paints do i use? I want to give mine a worn and torn look,likes its been in war.

Can someone just run me though the process,step by step, starting at the resin/fiberglass/filler stage then ending affter the painting stage.

 

[IcedJemz]

Im doing nmy first pepakura project too. I am also using isopon p38 which i believe is our closest thing to bondo. For the resin, i use fastglas car repair kit - got it in halfords. Came with fibreglass mat, resin, hardener, mixers and a crappy paint brush.

I think ppl use molds around so they can use things like silicone and plastic filler to make a cast of their item - thats what i presume anyway.

I believe ppl use acrylic spray paint - primer first, then add base colour, detail etc. You can add battle damage after like scratches, dirt, blood etc.

What ive done so far is used fast glas resin all over my pepakura to coat it. Let it dry. This strengthened it and sealed the glue bonds. Then i cut the fibreglass mats into strips, and one by one, applied these to the inside of the helmet by placing it where i wanted and soaking the mat with resin till the mat is stuck and flush with the inside. This makes it strong.

Im at the filler stage so applying small amounts in areas to raise up the grooves to a level surface, then sanding down to smooth. I need to apply another couple of coats. Alot of it is fill, sand, fill, sand, fill sand. Im learning this myself!

Theres plenty of experienced makers on here though who will be more thorough

 

[BritishCosplay]

So the resin goes on the outside and inside?

When you put the fiberglass strips on the inside what do you put over it? Would you p38/bondo the inside as well?

 

[erikv]

I do a layer of resin inside and out before I apply the fiberglass on the inside. I then apply the filler on the outside before sanding and sanding and sanding
You can see some build up pictures on my facebook page www.facebook.com/DiscoveryPropsCosplay i'm doing an NCR helmet just now. make sure you get the fiberglass sticking to the inside surface, try to avoid air bubbles in between as you may well sand through and need to fill these.

 

[BritishCosplay]

I do a layer of resin inside and out before I apply the fiberglass on the inside. I then apply the filler on the outside before sanding and sanding and sanding
You can see some build up pictures on my facebook page www.facebook.com/DiscoveryPropsCosplay i'm doing an NCR helmet just now. make sure you get the fiberglass sticking to the inside surface, try to avoid air bubbles in between as you may well sand through and need to fill these.

So once ive put fiberglass on the inside do i leave it? or wouuld i use filler on the inside too. How do you get the metal and rust effects on your helmet? thats sweet

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Im doing nmy first pepakura project too. I am also using isopon p38 which i believe is our closest thing to bondo. For the resin, i use fastglas car repair kit - got it in halfords. Came with fibreglass mat, resin, hardener, mixers and a crappy paint brush.

I think ppl use molds around so they can use things like silicone and plastic filler to make a cast of their item - thats what i presume anyway.

I believe ppl use acrylic spray paint - primer first, then add base colour, detail etc. You can add battle damage after like scratches, dirt, blood etc.

What ive done so far is used fast glas resin all over my pepakura to coat it. Let it dry. This strengthened it and sealed the glue bonds. Then i cut the fibreglass mats into strips, and one by one, applied these to the inside of the helmet by placing it where i wanted and soaking the mat with resin till the mat is stuck and flush with the inside. This makes it strong.

Im at the filler stage so applying small amounts in areas to raise up the grooves to a level surface, then sanding down to smooth. I need to apply another couple of coats. Alot of it is fill, sand, fill, sand, fill sand. Im learning this myself!

Theres plenty of experienced makers on here though who will be more thorough

What type of paper do you use. I saw alot of US people use 110 pound. I think thats about 300gsm here right?

 

[erikv]

I use 300 GSM card stock, it wont feed into my printer without a little help pushing down on it one sheet at a time as it feeds. The card is much easier to work with as thinner paper warps more as you glue and when you resin it.
I don't generally use filler inside unless it's needed.
With the paint, after priming I used a base colour and then dry brushed metalic silver on the exposed metal parts. Then a black wash, most of which you wipe back off. I then used a rust paint dry brushed over the exposed metal.

 

[BritishCosplay]

I use 300 GSM card stock, it wont feed into my printer without a little help pushing down on it one sheet at a time as it feeds. The card is much easier to work with as thinner paper warps more as you glue and when you resin it.
I don't generally use filler inside unless it's needed.
With the paint, after priming I used a base colour and then dry brushed metalic silver on the exposed metal parts. Then a black wash, most of which you wipe back off. I then used a rust paint dry brushed over the exposed metal.[/QUOTE/]

So if i wanted to make it look like the ncr ranger on the cover of Fallout New Vegas what would you suggest

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I use 300 GSM card stock, it wont feed into my printer without a little help pushing down on it one sheet at a time as it feeds. The card is much easier to work with as thinner paper warps more as you glue and when you resin it.
I don't generally use filler inside unless it's needed.
With the paint, after priming I used a base colour and then dry brushed metalic silver on the exposed metal parts. Then a black wash, most of which you wipe back off. I then used a rust paint dry brushed over the exposed metal.

So if i wanted to make it look like the ncr ranger on the cover of fallout new vegas what would you suggest

 

[IcedJemz]

I used 100gsm which has been fine for me, and had no trouble with warping after resin had been applied.

But yeah, resin on the inside and out, fiberglass mat on the inside. Filler on the outside only.

When you sand, have some different grit sand paper handy. Im using 80-100grit to get the majority of the filler off. Once i level it off properly after a couple of layers of filler, il use the less harsh grit paper to smooth it more. Im only on layer one of filler though at the mo

 

[BritishCosplay]

I used 100gsm which has been fine for me, and had no trouble with warping after resin had been applied.

But yeah, resin on the inside and out, fiberglass mat on the inside. Filler on the outside only.

When you sand, have some different grit sand paper handy. Im using 80-100grit to get the majority of the filler off. Once i level it off properly after a couple of layers of filler, il use the less harsh grit paper to smooth it more. Im only on layer one of filler though at the mo

Oh ok.I heard of a method where when you think your done sanding you using a black basecoat then sand it and the arrreas where there are still sand needs more filler

 

[IcedJemz]

Yeah ive seen people prime between layers as it shows up imperfections and areas that they've missed

 

[blue2k]

P38 is a terrible filler. Mainly used for huge gaping holes. Try to get some Upol, or Upol gold. Try not to use a terrible resin like Davids Fast Glass as well. Epoxy is nice, but takes about 24 hours to cure, but you could also order some regular polyester resin from ebay or something.

 

[IcedJemz]

P38 is a terrible filler. Mainly used for huge gaping holes. Try to get some Upol, or Upol gold. Try not to use a terrible resin like Davids Fast Glass as well. Epoxy is nice, but takes about 24 hours to cure, but you could also order some regular polyester resin from ebay or something.

Why is UPOL better? Just curious

 

[blue2k]

Why is UPOL better? Just curious

It's higher quality filler, much more creamier and easier to manipulate. The P38 is quite coarse and "sandy". P38 is designed to fill huge gaps, not finishing work.

 

[IcedJemz]

It's higher quality filler, much more creamier and easier to manipulate. The P38 is quite coarse and "sandy". P38 is designed to fill huge gaps, not finishing work.

Hmmm i may have to try some... Although money is awkward at the mo. Maternity pay sucks!!

 

[blue2k]

It isn't that expensive. I suppose it depends on how much you need. You can also try Upol Easy 1, or Upol Flyweight. Try ebay for a bargain, sometimes people will buy more than they need.

 

[mattycsi]

I'm with blue2k, upol is a much better filler. It is easier to work with both on application and sanding. It is generally cheaper in the long run, a 2ltr tub is about £16, whereas p38 is about £10 for 670ml.

 

[Pro Mod]

Upol Smooth 7 is my filler of choice.
Looking on line the prices vary dramatically for the same product - £22.95 to £58.24, both had free p+p which is important as its a heavy product.
Make sure you buy spare hardener, as I've never got through a 3.5 litre tin with just the one supplied.
Car repair suppliers should be able to help with all your needs.