Here's where I plan on getting my Brass:
Brass Shotgun Shells | Shop Brass Shotgun Shells at Buffalo Arms
They have multiple gauge, here soon i plan on taking the measurements of the rounds in the paper plans over to BassPro and compare the gauges, then order a box of that gauge if the ones i have don't match up...
There are multiple nice things about the brass on that site:
1 - the hulls are completely bare, no disassembling live rounds
2 - The hulls are stamped with markings, they aren't BPRD, but for me it doesn't matter that much
3 - the space for the primer is also empty, so dropping something like a BB or a small bearing in there can simulate a primer
4 - they are long enough you can easily cut them to exact needed size
What do you mean you don't have access to sand cast? It's a pretty simply DIY project, you can get plans online for electric, propane/lng, and waste oil fueled furnaces. I'm going with electric myself because it's cheaper per hour than the other 2 methods and i have a 220 line on my patio leading to the central AC unit i can tap into and install a plug... Most of the LPG/LNG and Electric furnaces can melt up to and including bronze without any added equipment, a waste oil furnace with an electric blower can melt iron...
You can pretty much learn exactly how to do the casting straight from youtube, there's a channel on there from myfordboy who has a 38 part series on sand casting using a homemade propane furnace, and his blog tells how to make it with dimensions and everything...
I haven't started my own thread, because with yours started i felt it wasn't necessary until i actually start the entire process... Which I might just do some threads detailing my own experiences now that i know others might benefit...
My thought on the tracer round was to make the bullet from clear resin, and since the brass from the shell doesn't have a primer pin, i would fashion a plug for the pin hole, then on the day of dress up, i would use a syringe to extract fluid from a green glowstick, and inject it into the round via the primer pin hole, then plug the hole, maybe seal with some bees wax just to make sure the hole is sealed and presto, flowing liquid tracer rounds...
For the holy water i was going to do something similar, place the dry objects in the round before i seal the clear bullet, then inject water or mineral oil (water could eventually corrode the brass) into the round via the primer pin hole and then glue a bb into the primer spot and make sure it's sealed...
For the normal rounds, i was just going to cast them...
Conflicting issues... The handle seems to be done wrong... not like horribly wrong, but looking at the actual prop there is a curvature to the metal frame leading into the handle behind/below the trigger that on the prop makes the gun more ergonomic.
also, from looking at the very bottom of the handle, you see there's a metal plate held in by a nut that has the ring... well in truth, that is there because the handle is a solid piece of wood. This was pretty common for old guns, and it would have a construction similar to how a sword handle is attached to the hilt and blade. The handle frame would have, essentially a tang for lack of a better term, with a threaded rod welded that leads through the bottom of the handle, that plate serves as both an washer for the nut and a spacer to make sure when the nut is tightened it makes a solid and stable connection...
When i start my build thread, i will show and explain more i think...
Also, you will notice that the papercraft version has the sight rail a little taller than the prop, meaning there's a little more space between the barrel and the rail, but honestly, it's not THAT big of a difference... though when i do some measuring for the gauge of the round it might make a difference...
