Hellboy pepakura bust - new technique - wax release agent

Blaxmyth

Sr Member
Some time ago I posted a thread for a Hellboy bust. http://www.therpf.com/f11/hellboy-pepakura-full-sized-bust-free-download-184834/ The links are still OK.

Anyway, I’ve just fibreglassed it today in one marathon session. Luckily it’s mid-summer here, so curing the resin and rondo was easy, as the bust is way too big for my curing cabinet.

This is the largest item I’ve done using the wax-release technique that someone posted about a couple of years ago. Basically, it takes advantage of the fact that rondo shrinks after it sets. Start by stiffening the pep with two coats of resin on the outside, then gently rub on some Carnuba wax on the inside, straight onto the card. After the wax has dried off a bit, you apply a good coat (two is better) of rondo on the inside. It will harden and then shrink. It doesn’t shrink much - say about 3mm across the width of a helmet-sized pep.

Because Hellboy is larger than life-sized, I used three large paper cups of rondo – about a litre in total, rotating the mould by hand, then finishing it off outside in the mobile, solar-powered Ford Telstar curing cabinet – the inside gets to 40 degrees Celcius (104 Fahrenheit) with the windows wound up! (Yes, I know – nasty fumes… It’s not being used at the moment and the fumes go away after a day or so with the windows open.)

After that I laid fibreglass cloth inside, at least two layers all over, with some chopped up cloth mixed with resin and plastered into some of the sticky-out bits like his ears, chin and pony-tail.

By the time the fibreglass was cured, you could actually feel where the rondo/fibreglass had pulled away from the card. It was just a matter of slicing the pep open and pulling it off in chunks to reveal a clean rondo surface. The wax seems to leave very little residue on the pep and what there is will easily sand off. Now all I have to do is add a relatively light coat of Bondo and sand it to remove some of the facets. I’m aiming for the Mignola-look so won’t round it too much.

Hopefully I’ll get it done in time for my son’s birthday later this month. Thanks for looking.

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Looking great! And wow... the shed is looking nice. Maybe you should come around and help me clean up my mess!

I'm looking forward to seeing how this gets finished!
 
Definitely looking good. Nice to see that when the Rondo bog dries, it shrinks, so making the removal of the glassed card much easier. Must try this out with my Tie Fighter helmet Pep when it is finished.

Nick K
 
Wow! Great Stuff! I'm rather new to the RPF, please excuse my ignorance in advance.. When you print out these files does it depend it the file if it remains shared off or is that corrected through sanding etc? You've got quite the collection. Keep it up!
 
Hi XSixxX

Not quite sure what you're asking, sorry, but this method is quite a bit different to the conventional method. Most people stiffen the outside with some resin, then strengthen the inside with fibreglass, followed by sanding off high spots and applying repeated thin coats of bondo to the outside. The pep card remains in the build and is largely covered by the bondo. My new method (which I didn't invent, but I can't remember who it was I got the idea from) treats the pep as a disposable mould which is removed once the interior rondo and fibreglass has set and shrunk.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions, please ask away and I will do what I can to help.

It might also be useful to check out Stealth's videos on YouTube - excellent!

Regards!
 
Blaxmyth - Being new to the forums I wasn't sure what the technique was called (Pepakura) and I looked it up and watched a few video's last night. Sorry if my question was jumbled or came out wrong, but I think I got my answer last night while watching an Iron Man Helmet build.

Essentially when you piece together the Pepakura files from paper and make your mold it comes out with edges etc. In the video it showed him smoothing out the edges to make them rounded off etc.

Are you going to leave your Bust with the angular edges? I like the look, I was just asking. If done in a Comic style ie Base colors, Darker base of that orig colors for shadowing etc, it would be a pretty neat piece.


Sixx
 
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Aww man that's pretty awesome. Now I have something else to try out, should I ever get back into the garage to use bondo n Fiberglass.
 
I'm going to leave some of the angularity and hard edges, but will round the vertical facets on the jaw, etc, to approximate the look of a Mike Mignola drawing. My son is going to paint it, and I think he's planning to use the comic style of shading as you describe.

Are you going to leave your Bust with the angular edges? I like the look, I was just asking. If done in a Comic style ie Base colors, Darker base of that orig colors for shadowing etc, it would be a pretty neat piece.

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Red Dwarf and Xaosbringer - thanks for your kind words!
 
hello,

what is rondo please ?
no traduction in google.

Rondo= Bondo (polyester filler) mixed with polyester resin, the result can be 'flowed' about to essentially rotocast.

I'm going to leave some of the angularity and hard edges, but will round the vertical facets on the jaw, etc, to approximate the look of a Mike Mignola drawing. My son is going to paint it, and I think he's planning to use the comic style of shading as you describe.



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Red Dwarf and Xaosbringer - thanks for your kind words!

That thing IS huge... :thumbsup
Probably in the grand scheme of things not a big difference, but do you think there'd be any benefit to gluing the tabs on the outside surface of the pep? I'd heard of this being done before on rotocast pieces, but I've never tried it myself.
 
Yeah, I keep meaning to put the tabs on the outside, but it just seems a bit weird... ;) I'm presently working on a complete redo of my trooper torso armour, and might try 'reverse tabbing' on that. Will post a thread when it's done. Must also finish Hellboy when I get some spare time - it was due to have been given to my son back in January!

Probably in the grand scheme of things not a big difference, but do you think there'd be any benefit to gluing the tabs on the outside surface of the pep? I'd heard of this being done before on rotocast pieces, but I've never tried it myself.
 
Yeah, I keep meaning to put the tabs on the outside, but it just seems a bit weird... ;) I'm presently working on a complete redo of my trooper torso armour, and might try 'reverse tabbing' on that. Will post a thread when it's done. Must also finish Hellboy when I get some spare time - it was due to have been given to my son back in January!

Very cool, I don't think the difference would be too great, but who knows? I know what you mean about the weirdness of switching tabs too. I can't even stick to cursive or print when writing a letter, I jump between the two; I'd end up with a pep with tabs on the inside and the outside everywhere :lol
 
yes I see, if I understand well the sealant is catalyzed apart and mixed it has the same catalyzed resin. time implementation should be very short and the peak exotherm must be very high. see withdrawal.
If it's just a load is needed you can use talc. you just need to determine the percentage. this is what I do when I no longer have thickened gelcoat (silica) I put talc. Attention ca thickened quickly.
 
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