Hasbro Rebel Millenium Falcon build (BMF) using 95% Hasbro parts

[retiredadguy]

Having looked at all the BMF builds I thought you might like a new one. And they are all SWEET!!

This is a mostly Hasbro parts build. What you need:

1) Hasbro Rebel Millenium Falcon.

2) hull - Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon all 9 side walls.

3) 7 landing gear - Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon

4) Upper and lower jaw box covers - Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon

5) (optional) 1 Radar dish - Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon

6) (optional) 1 Rear battery cover - rear engine exhaust vents - Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon

7) (optional) 1 Lighting / speaker wire harness - Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon

I have built a few millennium falcons in the past and the new Hasbro Rebel Millenium Falcon is one of the best with the least amount of modification needed in my opinion.

Any time I've built a new MF model I try to do it as close to stock the first time out. An example would be an original MPC model that would be build it and paint it. NO MODS.

Since the Hasbro Rebel Millenium Falcon is not really a model in the traditional sense, I'm doing very little modifications. I will use the supplied decals/stickers, no interior cockpit, and issued radar dish. All the mods will be off of the Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon.

Including the Hasbro Rebel Millenium Falcon, this build should run between 175.00 and 225.00 depending on Legacy parts cost off of ebay.

I did NOT pre paint it with ANY adhesion primer. I'm not a primmer fan with the exception of firearms replica builds.

Needless to say with the paint adhesion issue I did not use any tape masking.

Tools were / are:
Hand razor saw / Xacto Knife / 100 - 150grit sand paper / philips screw driver / small straight screw driver / Gorilla Glue Supper glue.

One; wash the model.

Disassemble it. There are 27 screws and three tab lock (cock pit / docking bays) pieces holding it together.

Remove all the side walls that require decals, along with the landing gear. SAVE these parts as you will use them as templates AND landing gear attachment points.

Disassemble your Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon side walls and decide were you need to cut them down to fit. The height need to be shortened and the length on most of the sides.

The landing gear will be installed the same way it is on the legacy falcon. You will use the cut off gear as the inside snap point for the legacy gear.

This is a minimal glue / pressure screw build.


This is first paint and final build ie glue.

I use only 2 colors on Millennium Falcons. A. Testers rattle can Light Air Craft Gray as the base coat - two cans. let it dry for a minimum of 12 hrs.

B. Tamiya Mat White as the secondary coat. One rattle can. Why not Testers flat white? Tamiya is a different chemical make up and has a finer mist spray.

I mask off the open engine bays and loose tape the top along the cockpit access tube.


Next I applied the decals/stickers.


As I've reached my 24 photo post limit,... "that's all for now folks!"

 

[Scarecrow Joe]

You plan to paint those sidewalls? They look a sand color against the white. No weathering at all? Its a clean build but lacks a bit in the realism department. After all that work the thing looks nice but too close to a toy appearance IMO.

 

[retiredadguy]

Cont. Weathering. Tools: Tamiya Weathering Master - Snow / soot /rust and Orange Rust /Gun metal / silver, Small stiff paint brush, Old chewed up small paint brush and supplied weather sticks comes with Tamiya sets. Testers DUL Coat 2-3 cans

These are as CLOSE as you can get to air brushing with out actually using an air brush.

After the decals/stickers are applied use a light coat of dull coat and build it up as it dries. You want to seal the stickers so they can be painted on.

I think all the colors are accurate with the exception of the warm gray. I used a neutral gray acrylic wash to match the paint color used on the legacy falcon.

The nice thing about the stickers is there is enough unused arias to cut out the missing panels needed. ie the small red aria to the R on the left open engine bay in front on the left front quarter panel.

When you weather the falcon it is very easy to OVER weather it.
I do rust first over the whole model. Then soot/ oil, lastly the blaster marks.

Last I put on the decals. Uhm,.. DIDN't You already DO that?

I'm talking about the decals that are on the 5 ft version.
Note: I have re-created the most prominent ones, these are NOT to scale yet and the verbiage is made up as the shots off the 5 ft are really hard to read.

I'm thinking about making these available once I'm finished and have scaled them for the legacy HMF and the Rebel HMF. it will be a pdf that you can print on to decal paper.

Or possibly have JT Graphics do them.

This is with the R side just with rust and the beginning suet / oil on the R side.
This is just rust


That's all for now,...

 

[Jaitea]

She looks brilliant with those parts

J

 

[Junk Pilot]

You can really see the shape of the 5ft Falcon when it's on the landing gear. It reminds me of the Falcon landing on the platform on Bespin.

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

Agreed with Jaitea! I'd be interested in a set!

 

[Robiwon]

All I can say is, Wow!!

 

[retiredadguy]

This is the top and side walls with most of the final weathering and blaster damage. I need to tone down some of the dirt and dry brush some of the details with white to bring them back a little more. I still need to do the soot / blaster damage on the bottom and landing gear.


Last will be the final decals once I'm done weathering it.

thks for the encouragement!

my camera batteries just died.

More to come later.

 

[Robiwon]

Again, that's a fantastic looking conversion. Hard to believe this is just a $60 toy.

 

[PHArchivist]

Good job on the painting!

 

[Robiwon]

Are the landing gear on the new Hasbro seperate parts, or do they need to be cut out?

 

[Junk Pilot]

They're not really landing gear, more like landing stumps. And yes, they do need to be cut off.

 

[joberg]

Good job on the painting business...seems to me that the landing gear is "too clean" compared to the overall look of the ship. But for that price and elbow grease it's a mighty MF you have there:cool

 

[Robiwon]

They're not really landing gear, more like landing stumps. And yes, they do need to be cut off.

"My stumps, my stumps, my little landing stumps...."

 

[retiredadguy]

This assumes your HLMF model is disassembled.

landing gear conversion using Legacy Mil Falc gear;


It has snap in holes. You are going to duplicate how these are attached on the HRMF model.
There are 2 types of gear on the HLMF. Knobby style; and cone style

The Knobby style are the R and L front gear. All the rest are cone style gear.

First Cut off the landing stubs on the HRMF model.
Use your choice of saw (Dreamel / hand razor saw / hack saw / Xacto Knife) Cut flush at the attachment aria so you have a hole the same shape as the landing stub.

Save these as you are going to use them as your inside mount points.
Remove all five landing stubs.
File / sand / trim aria you removed stubs from flat and flush with the bottom of the HRMF model.
This is so the model will sit with all gear on the surface once the gear has been attached.
Note there will be some play in the new landing gear when attached.

Line up the appropriate landing gear with the removed landing stubs in each open well with
the stubs on the inside of the lower hull and the new gear coming up through the cut out openings.

Use any type of tool ( marker / Xacto ) to mark the position on the stubs were the knob point on the new gear touches.
This is were you will cut new holes to attach the HLMF gear.

Cut out a SMALL hole as you want to make sure this is a TIGHT fit so the gear does not fall out.
I used an Xact as the plastic is really soft and it is easy to start small and enlarge it.

If you have done it correctly it should be hard to snap the landing gear in place.


Note; this is a semi permanent procedure.

If you want to display the model in flight you will need to disassemble the hull to remove the new landing gear.

Also you need to keep the shape of the cut out the same as the removed landing stub.
NOT a square cut. The indented shape keeps the gear in position and allows the gear to "clip on" around the edges.

You might need to trim the cut out aria slightly to fit the new gear, it depends on how close you cut to begin with.

Hope this helps.

I would of shot photos, but I did this prior to deciding to post and I really do not want to disassemble the model again.

 

[rbeach84]

Very nice job! But you knew that.. ;^P

Regards, Robert

 

[paplooo]

wow...
so basically you need 2...

asap ill got some money.. ill give it a try
well done !!!!!!!!!!!

 

[retiredadguy]

Thks,

Not sure what you mean by 2.

I used ONE Wallyworld (walllmart) Hasbro rebel falcon and the hull from a Hasbro Legacy falcon bought off e bay for 25.00.
The hull gives you the side walls, upper and lower jaw box covers, and rear exhaust vents if you want to dreamal them down to size.
Also IF you wanted to light and add sound you get the wire harness ready to go out of your Legacy hull.

You just need to modify it to fit (which It pretty much does as is) I did not, but I did test fit it when I had the HRML apart.

The radar dish runs for 25.00 e bay

All 7 landing gear ran 80.00 I see a set listed on e bay for 120.00 today.

I'm almost finished as I just printed out the decals I created from reference for the 5 ft version.

Have fun!

 

[kokkari]

I read this thread and I don't know if I missed it but how did you solve the side wall height disparity between the legacy and this falcon? Did you just trim the top and bottom, it doesn't look like you did.

 

[tek2graphics]

Thats AWESOME!!!!! Would save ALLOT of money doing it this way than buying the printed parts. Thanks for sharing!