Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon Conversion

Thanks, Junk Pilot. Hey you gotta get some white styrene. Easier to work with.

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Still chipping away at it.
 
Found a donor that matches the little curved part that sits on top of the thingamajig.

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By the way, I tried to make the tapered turret walls but the top surface of the wall just wouldn't come out flat. It's not as simple as I thought it would be. Not just a rectangular strip of styrene with slanted ends. Can anyone show any links or instructions as to how to do it? I know superjedi tried to help me once but without pictures I'm lost.
 
Found a donor that matches the little curved part that sits on top of the thingamajig.

LOL :lol:lol:lol

Thats how I feel when trying to explain which part I am trying to build. Why dont people understand thingamajigi, watsamcallits and duzamawatsits, its all perfectly clear in my head. :confused

That turret makes me want to rebuild the AMT one. It looks spot on CJ.

That watsamcallit tank part on the front of the turret, are you going to scratch it or try and find a donor tank the right size?

Are you also going to use the spitfire wing on the engine deck, or is it not usefull.

How are progressing Junk Pilot?

Ozzy
 
Hi Ozzy, I'll check out the tank and wing parts. Took the easy way out and puttied up the tapered turret sides with some plastic wood instead.

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I'm sure the boys at ILM went the same route when they built the gun turrets for the 32",... used putty to taper the outside.

Looking forward to future updates(y)thumbsup
 
You guys inspire me, thanks!

Borrowed my kids' paintbrush and spun it on the electric drill. Have to hide the brush head before he finds out. The Revell Panther's barrel looked so enticing I just had to cut it:

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Glued them together and sprayed with some primer:

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Kneaded some Pro-Create clay to make the cannon tips:

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Glad to see you worked out a way to do the angled turret walls. I admit that process I tried to explain is kind of weird without pictures. :unsure

Man oh man. . . you're really going all out on the guns! Can't wait to see how they turn out.

I have zero sculpting skills, and my gun barrels sat "tipless" for years until someone mentioned these quad exhaust parts from the Tyrrel 6-wheeler kit.

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I cut them in half with an X-acto saw and sanded the flat faces to round them off a bit, then glued them onto the gun barrels.

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Saved me a lot of frustration trying to work with clay! :lol

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Would they be the 1/20th scale Tyrell parts or 1/12th?

The full scale 5ft'er probably used the Tamiya 1/12th scale Lotus 49 two branch exhausts (see page 29 of the Large Scale MF Part ID thread)
 
Well, Superjedi, my Falcon has nothing going for it, so I thought I might as well devote some time on making the gun turret look nice. I'd probably do the same for the other areas, focusing on one section at a time. Nice find, your cannon tips! I knew you had a lot tricks up your sleeve. :). I still really need to learn your technique on how to make the flat-head cone -- I need it for the docking rings.

I'll try my hand at casting again. This is one field that's all hit and miss for me. The final product either flexes or snaps into two quite easily.
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Okay, got some new white styrene today, both 1mm and 0.5mm, as well as having ordered Mensaboy's Entex castings so I should be able to re-start work on th side walls soon. The new styrene will help me to get started on making new tops to the turrets.

Here are my new turret tops with a Fine Molds turret.
 
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Because of the small difference in size between the Hasbro BMF and the 32" Falcon miniature I'm hoping to be able to use them and other donor kit parts. Hopefully it won't look out of scale at the same time.

However, the conversion of the BMF to a "near studio scale" replica is a compromise because one particular area/detail may be 3% smaller than SS while another area/detail could be 6%. Remember, this was scaled UP from the Fine Molds 1/72 Falcon so it won't be 100% accurate but it has so much potential.

Then again maybe I am delusional in thinking this will work.
 
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Cutting plates for second turret.

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Made this mold but never got to use those keys -- The two mold halves fused together and I had to cut them apart with a razor blade.

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I think I'm getting the hang of mixing resin right. At least I know how to make them solid now - no more flexible parts.
 
Next time, before you pour the second half, coat the first half of the mold with some vasoline. It'll help when it comes time to pull the two molds apart.

There's a first edition book that I have called "How to build dioramas". The authors last name is Payne. It's published by Kalambach books. There's a good section in there for molds and casting parts.
 
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