Halo Reach M45 tactical shotgun - The Molding and casting process (PIC HEAVY)

Streetrocks

Active Member
So I dont really post here much, I am usually on the 405th more than anything, but I thought it was about time that I became more active here. I recently commissioned a talented artist from the 405th to create a copy of the shotgun from the video game Halo: Reach for me. I am a particular fan of this iteration of the shotgun within the Halo universe, and it is wonderful to be in possession of one. L05T V1K1N6 did a wonderful job on it and I couldn't be happier. I will include some of the photos of the build process, but more than anything wanted to document the process of molding as closely as I can. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

The Build:
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and finally
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The whole build can be viewed here. I highly recommend checking it out, along with Gabe's other work.

And now, for the molding process:
I began by doing the layouts on 1/8th hardboard. I use tape to layout the borders around the parts and so I know how to cut the rim board.

The parts on the hard board, you can see the barrel shroud has two stripes of tape around it denoting where the registration keys will go.
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Once the parts are all laid out I measure the length, width and depth of the parts. I make all of the measurements I write them all down so as to figure out the best way to cut them from the sheet of mdf.
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And the final layout
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Some of the parts will be traced on the hardboard to facilitate when I clay up the parts. You will see what I mean shortly.
 
Wow, this looks insanely awesome. Thinking this might go good with my ODST costume for the Halo 4 release.
 
To answer planets question, I do plan on making pulls available once the molds are completed.

Once I have everything laid out I begin to cut things out. I start by cutting out the parts that are traced onto the hard board:
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I then measure out the side boards and write them all down so as to make sure that I dont forget any
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I then cut out all of the hardboard panels, the backing panels and the side boards
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Then it's time to lay everything out. First comes the backing panels
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I keep all of my spare chunks of mdf to use as spacers so as to keep the parts centered inside the space that the box mold occupies
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Then the part
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Once the part is in place I lay out the first two side boards
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Then comes the hard board that acts as a dam between the two sides
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I finally lay out the remaining side boards and make sure that everything is glued in place
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I will continue to do this for each of the various parts that will have a two part mold. There are a couple that will be multi part molds and will be laid out a touch differently, but will take photos as I do so. Once these steps have been completed I will fill in the small gaps between the hard board and the part with chavant nsp soft clay and add in the registration keys.
 
Seems like wondering if these will be made available is a popular question. The answer is yes. I will be selling kits once I get all of the molding done.
 
Absolutely amazing work.
I am so jealous of you guys who are able to work so skilfully with wood.
 
Got the part clayed in. I use soft chavant nsp (non sulphur plasteline) to fill in the gaps between the part and the hardboard. Once that is completed I add the registration keys. In this case I used magnets and a few pieces of large hot glue stick that I cut to about 1/4 inch length.
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Once the regsitration keys are in place, using a hard bristled brush i coat the mdf and hardboard in a light coat of wax. Once the light coat of wax is on the raw wood I spray everything down with mold release. This makes it so that the rubber will seal and coat nicely and will demold easily.
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Okay, made some headway on the rubber. I have some rebound25 left over and thought I would use some of it up before the new MoldStar30 shows up. I forgot how viscous rebound is, it takes for freaking ever to measure out of a 5 gallon pail. I grabbed my measuring and mixing containers, and some mixing tools.
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I measured the initial batches at a liter per part (two liter total per batch). Each side took two and a half batches for a total of 5 liters of rubber per side. Yes, it is a bit excessive, but I dont want to have to redo this mold so I went a bit overboard. I made sure to give everything a fresh shot of release agent before pouring.
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After the first batch was mixed thoroughly I poured a thing layer over all of the part using a tooth pick to pop any bubbles in the small recessed areas like the screw and bolt details.
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I continued to mix and pour rubber until the part was completely covered to a depth of about 1/2 inch and let it cure overnight
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Once the first side was completely cured i flipped it over, and removed the hardboard.
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Once the hardboard was removed I began to remove the clay and make sure it was completely cleaned from the part so there will be a clean seam. This was particularly painstaking on the upper picatinny rail.
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Once the part was completely cleaned up I brushed down the mdf sideboards with wax, and sprayed down the entire thing with multiple liberal coats of release agent so the two sides of rubber dont stick together.
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You can see in the above picture that there is a recessed hole for where the barrel assembly slots into. When pouring the second half this is where I first pour the rubber, ensuring that there are no air bubbles trapped.
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I repeated the same process for the second side mixing two and a half batches, popping air bubbles etc. Final side is curing currently. I must admit a small goof on this one. I forgot to mark out the sprues (spot where the plastic is poured and the air is allowed to evacuate the mold) but I can cut those out later. I would usually lay them out with clay and just pour over them. I will ensure that I show this step as I continue the process on the other parts. More coming soon, once the rubber is cured.
 
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Goodness Gracious, I really want one. Like REALLY bad. I need to know what your price will be though. Either way, it's insane. Your obviously good at what you do.
Also, I'm gonna need that shotgun for my soon to be ODST costume.
But wow man, just wow.
 
Wow that is amazing work right there! I'm game on grabbing one too.

It's nice to see it all come together from square one too.
 
I havent worked out what the kit price will be, I guess it will be dependent upon how much the cost of molding and casting is.
Definitely no need for a do over. It turned out spectacularly. I just need to pick up the bolts to hold it all together and I will see about pulling some casts. Im going to try and rotocast this bad boy. I guess I will let the pics speak for themselves. I just pulled off the side boards and the two sides came apart with zero issues. No bubbles, great surface curing, and everything is just as it should be.
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The part comes out very easily, just a gentle coax and out she comes
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You can see how well the details came out with the rebound. I was a little worried about cure inhibition and possible bubble entrapment due to the age of the rubber, bought it more than a year ago, but there was no problem at all. I do have mold star 30 coming in, and Im excited to give it a shot and see how it compares to the rebound. Rebound is seriously a monster pain to pour out.
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Hope yall like it so far, Im stoked to give the casting a shot and see how she comes out. Need to make some headway on the rest of the parts too. Work is really getting in the way!
 
Well, time for another update. Work has keeping me far to busy to be able to do much. 14+ hours 5-6 days a week doesn't leave much time for anything. Anyway, I got a couple more parts clayed up (I still need to do the barrel assemble, the pump, and the little bits), so all of the rest of the main body is ready to throw under rubber. I also picked up a couple gallons of Moldstar30, I want to see if it works better than the rebound. I also picked up various other products for casting and finishing up my other projects. Let's just say smooth on put a serious dent in my checking account.

See!!
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And the clayed up pieces:
Forward lower reciever
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The grip etc. This will be a 3 part mold. The large clay are will eventually be filled with rubber so as to allow for the trigger assembly to be installed
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The stock. The Lego is to cut down on the volume of rubber I use. Filling the entire area is just a waste of rubber.
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I will be laying down the first layer of rubber shortly, and will do the second half tonight.
 
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