gun molding question
- Thread starter saberMaN
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ytt1300
New Member
unless you can disassemble the firing pin block on the 92, it's probably not a good idea to submerge it in rubber. the revolver, may be a little more forgiving, you will nevertheless want to THOUROUGHLY mask off any openings that rubber can seep into, you'd be surprised at how far in that thick rubber can get when curing for 8 hours... [i know this from the school of hard knocks ; )
cheech9898
Sr Member
There are several companies that make resin pistols for training & theatrical use. Ringer's I know makes a resin beretta, I used to have one from them for my Stargate outfit. Just need a piece of sandpaper and some flat black spray paint. I'm not sure about revolvers, but they may have those too. Check Brownells.com or any of the other gun/tactical internet shops.
Noeland
Master Member
They make everything, but those types of replicas are expensive. Probably cheaper then molding them yourself, and possibly getting it into parts of the guns you don't want though.
http://www.blueguns.com/
http://www.aspredguns.com/
Njc-----------
http://www.blueguns.com/
http://www.aspredguns.com/
Njc-----------
saber_wielder
New Member
If you are going to do it yourself and want a semi firm gun...
http://youtube.com/watch?v=3785Sw9gbS8
http://youtube.com/watch?v=3785Sw9gbS8
bleyd
Sr Member
Digging this one up to ask about insuring the integrity of the original piece. I plan to cast a pistol. No it's not a readily available gun therefore going to an outside source is not a possibility, it's that rare. I wish to insure the pistol has a good clean mold without destroying or ruining the pistol in any way.
What tips would you have on what I would use to seal up the pistol so my molding material doesn't seep everywhere? Would clay be sufficient or is there another material people use to fix this?
Any ideas or tips would help here. I've already Youtubed it and nothing I could find answered any of my questions. Thanks in advance.
Tim
What tips would you have on what I would use to seal up the pistol so my molding material doesn't seep everywhere? Would clay be sufficient or is there another material people use to fix this?
Any ideas or tips would help here. I've already Youtubed it and nothing I could find answered any of my questions. Thanks in advance.
Tim
exoray
Master Member
Each situation is unique there is not one 'right' way, for metal to metal seams I would recommend common Vaseline forced into the small cracks and seams... Oil based clay (with a skim coat of Vaseline for larger voids, but for wood or plastic parts the Vaseline and oil clay might cause issues with staining or integrity of the plastics... If possible I would recommend those parts be removed and cast separately, with possibly a paraffin based mold release spray...
In all cases you will need to strip the gun back down after molding to clean it up completely, and give it a new coat of protective finish when you are done...
In the end I would probably aim to get a 'decent' or simply 'good' original mold of the gun, take a casting from that mold with some slow setting resin (lower shrinkage) and then rework the resin master from that mold to be recast into the final working mold... Must easier to rework, clean and make mold friendly cracks,seams and voids on a resin master vs the real deal...
Miracleman
Active Member
This may sound stupid, but hey, its' never stopped me before, but have you considered using silicone putty to make the initial "skin" of the mold and then normal RTV for the rest. The putty wouldn't seep into the gaps as badly as liquid rubber.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
TallDarknWeirdo
New Member
That's crazy! I Like it! hehe. actually I've seen a lot of consumer electronics cast this way, rather than trying to prevent rubber from leaking in around all the buttons and other greeblies. I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work just as well on a firearm, if care is taken. I will say that when I've seen it done they tended to use JUST putty in large amounts and backed up with a rigid shell and I've never tried to bond putty to pourable stuff, but I can't think of any reason it wouldn't bond.
wow i havent seen this thread in forever..lol. turns out my friend down the street decided to do this on an old deactivated bursa .380. he used clay to block the barrel and thats it. not sure what silicone he used but it was pretty thick.afterwards he just took apart the gun, cleaned out the barrel and the trigger guard area and gave it all a good once over. but the silicone didnt go in every knook an cranny like i thought it would. ill get the pics from him later tonight
exoray
Master Member
The only issue I have found with the putty is that from my experience, when you push in one area it has a tendency to pull or deform in another area... Hard to explain but I have not had much luck with the putties... That and I find the putties to be simply garbage silicone in most cases missing a lot of detail or creating artifact lines from folds or what not in it...
kcpstudio
Sr Member
Greetings... figured I would jump in and add a little. Ok... everyone who posted is correct In saying, in a nut shell, silicone is a pain. Here's the technique I use for the industry. First, the weapon itself is full of all kinds of nasty residues which will cause curing inhibition of the silicone. So, using something like a platinum base silicone is out of the question. You'll need something a little more forgiving... like a good tin base. The only real problem with that is that it has shrink. One of the trade offs. Don't try and clean the weapon and try platinum base... you'll just waste a lot of money. You'll never get the firearm clean enough. Next, you need to get some sulfer free clay and plug up every crack that you can get at. Don't go nuts as you don't want any clay in areas you can't remove it from later. But, keep in mind that the job you do with the clay will show on your casting so take your time. Now, I won't get into boxing up and creating Z6tLfprZ seam lines as that's a whole other thread. LOL This is the important part. What you need to do is thicken the he'll out of a small batch of silicone and brush it on the weapon. Being extremely thick will help by not allowing the silicone to go places you don't want it to. Now, you have many companies out there with all kinds silicones and pre-mixed products just for this purpose. I personally have used just about everything out there at one time or another, but, for the last 12 years, I have one company thats delivered excellent products and that's all I deal with. I won't advertise here as I don't know if that would violate any rules but if you shoot me an email, I would be glad to give you the companys name and some products that would be good for your purpose. One last thing though.... like someone mentioned before, you do have companies out there that make these in various platis and rubber product which would be way cheaper for you than to make it yourself. But, if you want to try something like this on your own, remember one thing.... this is an art of trial an error for the new guy and even the most experienced from time to time. One last thing... this not by any means the only way of molding. This is just a quick method I use and what has worked for me over the years.
Kenney
Kenney
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