Greedo Killer build with a real Mauser
- Thread starter The 48th Ronin
- Start date
Yeah, I couldn't believe how lucky I was that day - got it for a song, too (compared to current prices). It's still my most prized piece.
Great thread! Always new nuggets to be found and dissected! Greedo killer heat sink being not equal on each side is definitely possible but if it is it certainly looks to be marginal. Really hard to tell though from these pictures (blurry, angled and shadows obviously make it tough). Tired to line them up as equal as possible by duplicating each yellow line without changing the size. Again really hard to see clearly though unless there is better pics out there..
If you are referencing this slide mag..
If say zero chance. But if there is other types I for one would like to see what they look like..
Yeah, it's hard to say - the asymmetry doesn't seem to be as pronounced in the photos, but I would concede that it certainly could be that way.
It's also weird that in the sepia tone pics the heatsink seems narrower to me, with the front corners more rounded, but in the post-production pics with Harrison Ford the heatsink appears wider and boxier with the corners more square. Probably just the angles at which the photos were taken.
It's also weird that in the sepia tone pics the heatsink seems narrower to me, with the front corners more rounded, but in the post-production pics with Harrison Ford the heatsink appears wider and boxier with the corners more square. Probably just the angles at which the photos were taken.
Score!
Found an LFC M9 - NOS still in the Cosmoline!
Bit of an adventure getting it cleaned up, but some research beforehand on best methods for that paid off in spades.
Not much more to report. Got all of the small parts fire blued that I wanted to - that was also an adventure, but they turned out surprisingly well, considering that I'd never done it before.
Next big step will be stripping the finish off the frame and barrel and rebluing them...
Found an LFC M9 - NOS still in the Cosmoline!
Bit of an adventure getting it cleaned up, but some research beforehand on best methods for that paid off in spades.
Not much more to report. Got all of the small parts fire blued that I wanted to - that was also an adventure, but they turned out surprisingly well, considering that I'd never done it before.
Next big step will be stripping the finish off the frame and barrel and rebluing them...
Thanks. I haven't been super-vigilant about looking, but every now and then I'll search the usual places - low and behold, there it was!
Finally a bit of progress.
I wasn't getting satisfactory results with my attempts at cold bluing, so I sent the barrel and frame off to a gunsmith for hot bluing. Nine weeks later I got my parts back.
Just got everything put back together.
Got all of the add-on parts painted this past week. All that's left to do is the hardware. I'm also waiting on a friend at work to machine an adapter for the flash hider.
I wasn't getting satisfactory results with my attempts at cold bluing, so I sent the barrel and frame off to a gunsmith for hot bluing. Nine weeks later I got my parts back.
Just got everything put back together.
Got all of the add-on parts painted this past week. All that's left to do is the hardware. I'm also waiting on a friend at work to machine an adapter for the flash hider.
More neurosis... Field Marshall's escutcheon screws are just a bit too short - at 1 inch they just barely grab the nut on the right grip.
I found some high-profile narrow fillister head screws on McMaster Carr that were 1 1/4 inch - actually a bit too long, so I sawed off the end for a final length of approximately 1 1/8 inch. Unfortunately they only come in stainless steel. However, I picked up some chemical blackening solution for stainless steel for an unrelated project, so I tried that - it worked OK. Not perfect, but it worked a bit better on all of the hardware for the scope mounting bracket.
Much better, as the screw is supposed to fill the entire nut.
I found some high-profile narrow fillister head screws on McMaster Carr that were 1 1/4 inch - actually a bit too long, so I sawed off the end for a final length of approximately 1 1/8 inch. Unfortunately they only come in stainless steel. However, I picked up some chemical blackening solution for stainless steel for an unrelated project, so I tried that - it worked OK. Not perfect, but it worked a bit better on all of the hardware for the scope mounting bracket.
Much better, as the screw is supposed to fill the entire nut.
It's funny how when you're nearing the end of a project things start progressing faster and faster... and then all of a sudden you're done.
It's done!
It's done!
Beautiful work. I think I need to break down my mauser and heat blue the parts. They're so pretty
Thanks guys. It's pretty awesome to see it all assembled. I think it might be my new Favorite Object.
I cobbled together a makeshift bluing tray by bending a strip of .064" thick x 1/2" wide K&S brass into a rectangle shape and clamped it to a .064" thick brass plate with a couple of vice-grip pliers. I filled it with brass shavings that I bought on eBay - I think it was a pound for 11 bucks. I nestled each part down into the brass shavings and slowly heated up the shavings around the part with an oxy-propane soldering torch.
I believe scottjua has a YouTube video on heat bluing. And there's also this guy:
It's actually pretty easy to do. Just take your time and watch your heat.
I cobbled together a makeshift bluing tray by bending a strip of .064" thick x 1/2" wide K&S brass into a rectangle shape and clamped it to a .064" thick brass plate with a couple of vice-grip pliers. I filled it with brass shavings that I bought on eBay - I think it was a pound for 11 bucks. I nestled each part down into the brass shavings and slowly heated up the shavings around the part with an oxy-propane soldering torch.
I believe scottjua has a YouTube video on heat bluing. And there's also this guy:
Last edited:
Thanks - I'm pretty happy with it too. Of course it was the result of necessity - with all of the pitting, sandblasting the surface was really the only way to go. Would I have preferred a pristine Mauser? Of course... but this is what I've got. Plus, if I had a pristine Mauser, I'm sure that I wouldn't have converted it into a blaster!
Similar threads
