Graflex Variations: Facts and vs. Replica

[Vanitas]

Wow, reading up on the Graflex is really nostalgic... I have a old Graflex 2 Cell that I bought about 4 years ago for something like 20 bucks. It's seen its better days, but I like the weathered look of it - But to make a Luke ANH out of it, I need a Graflex 3 Cell lower section. Anybody have any ideas on where to pick up a spare? (I'd prefer a real one, though I could manage a replica bottom.)

My vintage Graflex 2 Cell:


Is mostly complete, though it is missing the glass light in the front.



Has the correct straight brass pins, though one of them is missing, which might be visible in the first photo. Also notice the button, which is real as well.



The bunny ears are held in place by a rivet, NOT a screw. Definitely real.



The clamp is probably the worst part. Most of the chrome has flaked off over time, and these is some minor surface corrosion underneath where the clamp goes, but the clamp is still REAL. I did replace the lever with a repro though, but for some reason, unlike others this repro clamp doesn't exhibit the casting marks and the circular milled spots underneath it, making it more accurate. I do have a repro clamp around, but I'm torn as to whether or not to use the real deal, despite it's poor condition.



And finally, the 2 Cell bottom, still real. This one exhibits the patent number on it, though if I make a saber out of this, I would replace the bottom anyways. Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions anybody?

 

[Sym-Cha]

You could always try and have that clamp re-chromed ... and perhaps you could ask 3cell for any advice and or seperate graflex parts for replacements? For a Luke ANH you need the other red button. Looking forward to your own seperate build thread

Chaim

 

[Vanitas]

You could always try and have that clamp re-chromed ... and perhaps you could ask 3cell for any advice and or seperate graflex parts for replacements? For a Luke ANH you need the other red button. Looking forward to your own seperate build thread

Chaim

Thanks,

for right now, I want to finish my Han ANH DL-44 first, and if I ever decide to make my Graflex into a Luke ANH, then I'm not going to go for 100% screen accuracy. I wouldn't mind using a clamp with most of its chrome worn off, and if I decide I don't like it, then I can use one of my spare replicas. Using a real button, even if its the wrong variant, won't bother me at all. Parks has a decent selection of Graflex replica parts, so I can get some more brass screws/light bulb/t track. Who exactly should I contact for the best chance of getting a Graflex 3 Cell bottom?

 

[p0sitr0nic]

That clamp would probably fit well on a weathered Obi Wan...

 

[neilshy]

Brilliant thread of info. I've just bought my first Graflex and have been able to work out that I own a Mid/Late Graflex with Patent. Really great depth of info. Thanks so much for posting all of this!

 

[scottjua]

Seems to be a lot of Graflex talk lately, so I figured I should bump this.

 

[JoeG]

And the prices on eBay are really getting nutty. Glad I already have my ANH. Was thinking about doing an ESB, but I think I'll wait.

 

[ataru72ita]

Thanks Scott for nechroposting this thread!thumbsup
How could I have missed this!

Regards,

Alberto

 

[teecrooz]

Just a heads up to all buying flashes these days. There have been and currently is a Parks replica being sold on well known auction website. The seller makes it look authentic by showing a reflector and camera in the auction. Do your research by reading this thread.

 

[thd9791]

Good word of warning, thanks Chris.

The sucky thing is that personally my best clue is to sniff the inside. There's no sniff-app yet...

- - - Updated - - -

says "replica" in the title.....not even a red button..scummy move lol

 

[roygilsing]

For me another quick test is to check the "R" in GRAFLEX in the clamp: the leg of the R is a little wider than the top of the R. This font is very rare. Another check on the top part: check if the fixation rivet of the (beer) tab: if it has a circular lathe texture it's a real one.
As said before, I don't think we have to worry for frauds. If somebody can create a decent priced replica THAT good, and can fool US, he or she deserves some good sales!!


Roy

www.wannawanga.com

 

[teecrooz]

says "replica" in the title.....not even a red button..scummy move lol

Correct, the current auction does, but one from a few weeks ago didn't and sold for over $300.

 

[Solar]

Is this kind of graflex any good for anything? It's definitely not the one Luke had by a long shot but it is a graflex so I'm figuring it may be good for something

 

[NeoRutty]

Is this kind of graflex any good for anything? It's definitely not the one Luke had by a long shot but it is a graflex so I'm figuring it may be good for something
View attachment 438076View attachment 438077View attachment 438078

Yup! It was only the greatest saber every shown on a Televised Variety Show!

Luke's Holiday Special Saber!

I think it was also used on the X-Wing dashboard... or a black version anyway...

 

[thd9791]

Yep, it was bolted to the dashboard of an X Wing too. I THINK it was blackened for use in wartime, better for camouflage - there are a few black graflite slaves on the bay now.

 

[scottjua]

with all the graflex mania lately, I figured this needs a bump

 

[Aison]

checked all mine, they are Graflex patent pending, not folmer, and I have all the different glass eyes on them.

 

[firebladejedi]

This thread made me dig out my old Light Saber's too- just checked and the last 2 Graflex I have are both real

 

[Edraven99]

Good as place to post this question I think for reference sake....

So I managed to pick up a Graflex 3-cell for relatively cheap (relative in comparison to what these things are seemingly going for!), but it's seen better days...

So my questions to all of you who may have some experience in such things is:

a) What's the best way of cleaning some of the spot corrosion/rusting on the surface without further damaging the nickle plating
b) What's the best method of cleaning out the inside of the bottom tube that has heavy battery acid corrosion in it? I've read vinegar, coke or o mixture of baking soda and water - anyone else have a better suggestion or have used any of these previous methods with success?

Thanks guys!

 

[mortifactor]

The internet should have tons of tips, mostly from car guys (with chrome bumpers etc). I think I read rubbing with tin foil for rust, then some car wax over the top. Check out some guides.