Finishing a resin prop

[Wes R]

I just bought the RPF custom Model GV ArmsTech Blaster Prototype CWS-1
Cal.45 (caseless) blaster and I am little unsure of where to go now. I've done work on small resin parts for toys/models but nothing so big. Any suggestions on cleaning the mold lines and filling any pinholes i may find?

 

[LizardJedi]

Fine grit sandpaper, and Bondo Spot Filler. I like that stuff because its not 2-part filler, and its easy to work with my hands, I can push it around with my fingers instead of a tool.

 

[Wes R]

Fine grit sandpaper, and Bondo Spot Filler. I like that stuff because its not 2-part filler, and its easy to work with my hands, I can push it around with my fingers instead of a tool.

I'll have to pick some up. All we have here is the 2 part and the only other putty i have is green squadron putty for model kits.

 

[LizardJedi]

I'll have to pick some up. All we have here is the 2 part and the only other putty i have is green squadron putty for model kits.

If its the green stuff in a tube, then its very similar to the Bondo stuff. If its the green stuff where you cut off a piece and kneed it, that stuff is pretty good for big holes (but is a pain for small pinholes and such)

 

[Wes R]

If its the green stuff in a tube, then its very similar to the Bondo stuff. If its the green stuff where you cut off a piece and kneed it, that stuff is pretty good for big holes (but is a pain for small pinholes and such)

Nope its the green stuff in the tube for model kits. Smells up the entire house and gets you higher than a kite :lol I tend to use it on everything around here.

 

[tim]

I will freely admit that I've used Spackle to fill both large and small defects with good results. It's easy to manipulate when wet and sands nicely when dry.

 

[Wes R]

I will freely admit that I've used Spackle to fill both large and small defects with good results. It's easy to manipulate when wet and sands nicely when dry.

I'm fixing up my room so i have a ton of that here too. I have to see if we have fine sandpaper to start with. I think we have or did have 400 grit.

 

[tim]

I used 600 grit when working the Spackle. Lower grit and I think you run the risk of grooving or crumbling of the material, as it is somewhat brittle. Fortunately, the Spackle gets sealed in with the resin when you paint, so there's never been a big problem.

 

[Replicant]

I get good results on seams by scraping them with an EXACTO knife. Hold the blade at a 90 degree angle to the seam and scrape. If it makes a squeaking noise, then you are doing it right.

Also it is handy to have some AVES EPOXIE SCULPT on hand. It's 2 part, 3 hour work time, water cleanup and non toxic, clay like, sandable,drillable, paintable. Go to the site and read about it.

AVES STUDIO

 

[division 6]

For small pin holes I thin the Bondo spot putty with lacquer thinner and brush it on with a disposable sponge brush or cheap kids paint brush that you can get 12 for about a buck.

You can even try glazing over them with Ca glue instead.

 

[dreaminspired]

Smells up the entire house and gets you higher than a kite :lol I tend to use it on everything around here.

cry for help?:lol

 

[Tommyfilth]

I prefer the Squadron Green stuff to the Bondo Spot putty, but you can thin Bondo Spot Putty with acetone (I think) and brush it into pinholes, It'll shrink when the acetone evaporates. I'm not sure about thinning the Squadron putty.
I think the other stuff Lizard was talking about is the "Kneadalite Green Stuff" (or something like that) that is a two part putty that sets real hard in 24 hours but the puttys is easier to sand for sure.
Also a tip I read years ago is to wash all the parts with dishsoap to remove any possible mold release or residue before painting or even filling holes.

Tommy

 

[Wes R]

I actually have some epoxy sculpt, i use it on my custom action figures. I was everything anymore before i paint it from action figures to my own castings.

 

[MustangGTR1]

It all depends on what am filling. Large, I use Bondo, med, I use Bondo pro spot putty, but on pinholes and such, well I use everything Bondo spot putty, wall putty, wood putty for out doors, 3M glazing putty, red or green....Kev

 

[Wes R]

I'll find something, i figure pinholes would be the last step for me. I need to get the mold lines and other stuff cleaned up. Gonna take my time on this one, i need to find my micro file set too.

 

[LeMarchand]

for shallow scratches and small pinholes, mixing primer with talcum powder also works great as it sands off really easy without sanding the surrounding area too much (which can create new pinholes if the cast has a lot of airbubbles underneath the surface.

If the holes are a bit larger or you need to repair edges, superglue mixed with talcum powder works great as well.

If you need to prep a highly detailed surface for priming and sandpaper can't get in the spots, use a toothbrush and kitchen abbrasive (VIM or something similar) as it does the trick just as good as fine sandpaper.

 

[Wes R]

Cool. this thing isn't that bad but i just want to be prepared for the worst in case i mess up lol.

 

[punisher]

Just treat it like a large model kit. Sand down the seam lines and fill in any indentions with what ever putty you can get your hands on. Prime and paint it.

 

[Tommyfilth]

Also remember to always use a block for sanding flat surfaces, sometimes I'll tape a full sheet to my bench top and move the piece over that.

Tommy

 

[Wes R]

Yeah i have a sanding block handy and a clipboard i tape paper to for sanding flat parts.