Farnsworth Discussion

As for the rinestone I have finish 2 of these and the rinestone(camera) on my 1st areheld down with clear double sided tape. The oldest one seems to have something going on with it. I did not clear the silver off but it is mared. I think it might be a reaction to the tape. So that might be what going on with tthe screen used one. With that said anyone have a rinestoone extra? PM me please.
Mark
 
Well I tried drilling the holes for the audio jacks in my wheatley case today and botched that job, so I have to order another case :angry

Anyway is there a method anyone used to do it? When I was doing the first hole I got through the outer shell (which when I started to drill the bit was sliding around, would have made sense to have a starter punch, not to me :confused)which then pushed on the inner lining. After clamping that back in place I put a wood block up against it (again would have made sense to do, not me :confused) but seemed to be a hell of a time getting through to the block, guessing my drill didn't have enough power behind it so I'll switch to a corded next time.

what went wrong was when I started to drill hole 2, it slid around again getting WAY to close to the other. Literally a thin peace between both holes.

btw, I'm freely admiting I have no idea what I'm doing:unsure
 
DemonFire said:
Well I tried drilling the holes for the audio jacks in my wheatley case today and botched that job, so I have to order another case :angry

Anyway is there a method anyone used to do it? When I was doing the first hole I got through the outer shell (which when I started to drill the bit was sliding around, would have made sense to have a starter punch, not to me :confused)which then pushed on the inner lining. After clamping that back in place I put a wood block up against it (again would have made sense to do, not me :confused) but seemed to be a hell of a time getting through to the block, guessing my drill didn't have enough power behind it so I'll switch to a corded next time.

what went wrong was when I started to drill hole 2, it slid around again getting WAY to close to the other. Literally a thin peace between both holes.

btw, I'm freely admiting I have no idea what I'm doing:unsure
Click to expand...


Use a very small drill bit and drill a pilot hole first (Small drill bits have a sharper tip which catches the metal better and doesnt slide around as much as a thicker drill bit.)..Go slow inn the process.

Once the pilot hole is drilled you can use it as an anchor for a thicker drill bit.

Hope that made sense. Good luck.
 
DARTH SABER said:
Use a very small drill bit and drill a pilot hole first (Small drill bits have a sharper tip which catches the metal better and doesnt slide around as much as a thicker drill bit.)..Go slow inn the process.

Once the pilot hole is drilled you can use it as an anchor for a thicker drill bit.

Hope that made sense. Good luck.
Click to expand...

That's very good advice. Another option is a set of DeWalt titanium drillbits... They have a set that includes a pilot-drilling tip, and they anchor in quite well. According to the guy at my local Home Depot, DeWalt is the only company that makes them like that. I got a set of sizes from like 1/16 all the way up to 1/2 for about $30.
 
I found the metal was soft enough that I was able to drill my pilot holes with a small drill bit and a pin vise.
 
1st I should say I have built 7 of these for some friends and myself. To drill the jack hole I used a piece of wood to fill the gap between the inside walls.The tighter the better. Drill slow, like dad aways said let the tool do the work. Hope that helps.
Mark
 
jedibugs said:
That's very good advice. Another option is a set of DeWalt titanium drillbits... They have a set that includes a pilot-drilling tip, and they anchor in quite well. According to the guy at my local Home Depot, DeWalt is the only company that makes them like that. I got a set of sizes from like 1/16 all the way up to 1/2 for about $30.
Click to expand...

Oh, one more thing - Put a piece of masking tape on the area of the box that youre drilling...This will further prevent the small drill bit from sliding around.
The tip of the drill will catch onto the surface of the masking tape.
The tape also allows you to mark the area youre drilling with a marker or pencil.
 
Like others have said, using a pilot bit will help alot. Another thing is these should be very easy to drill being made of aluminum so you should not need a corded drill, a cordless should be fine and they tend to stop rotation much faster than a standard electric hand drill in case you start making a mistake. One major point in this is make sure your drill bits are sharp, someone mentioned buying a set. Even a cheap set should be able to drill through the aluminum with ease if they are sharp. Add up all the tips posted and your next attempt should be a success.
 
Great, Thx for the tips everyone :)

I would imagine it would help to if I set it up to drill down into it vs what I tried to do by pushing into it.
 
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Defintely think about supporting the inside with a wooden block. Use masking tape on the surface and mark the position on that. The tape also helps prevent the drill bit from "skating" sideways. Because the box is made of two layers, it is very easy to bend that inner layer as the drill bit pops through the outside layer. Because the metal of the box is really soft you may find using a starter punch causes a dent around the hole unless really careful. Also drill slowly with sharp bits, and as said let the bit do the work rather than pressure as you are dealing with a soft metal. With all those precations it shouldn't matter if you drill downwards or sideways.
 
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I was wondering has anyone else finished their Farnsworth? The thread has seem to slow down. I just need to pick up a sound board for mine.
Mark
 
I just need to paint mine and then make a second one plus a Claudia Farnsworth. Painting is always the part that holds me up as I don't want to screw it up.
 
Nobby as posted before be careful with your drill. The inter wall is soft. If you don't hold it. It will just bend with the drill. Good luck
Mark
 
I used a block of wood clamped in place on the inside to drill the holes.
Remember to make sure they will clear the switch.
 
Fyberdyne Labs said:
I was wondering has anyone else finished their Farnsworth? The thread has seem to slow down. I just need to pick up a sound board for mine.
Mark
Click to expand...

I just got my hands on a pair of vintage weathley boxes. They are silver coloured alloy. They had a central hinge that will need to be cut down; and one has weird vintage glue residue from what was holding foam...

I still need greeblies and faceplate, and the proper paint, too.

so I am following this thread, and I am sure others are too. But it is going to take a while before it is completed.
 
I have everything for mine, except the wheatley case and the push button. Wheatley are awful at communication and delivering on time! >insert ANGRYFACE here<
 
Yeah, I have been waiting for 5 weeks for mine... and shipping from the UK to Sweden is only a couple days!

They have apparently moved offices/warehouse and have been sold out of the gold anodized ones for a while... they promised to send one to me within a few days but we'll see. It took a couple messages and phone calls to get some answers. (They apparently have other colors in stock though... and since the FW is sprayed brown it might not matter but if you want the gold to shine through any weathering you still kinda need the gold...)


Ravensclaw said:
I have everything for mine, except the wheatley case and the push button. Wheatley are awful at communication and delivering on time! >insert ANGRYFACE here<
Click to expand...
 
I got mine off eBay - two vintage ones. I figured I could used the vintage scuff and marks for more realistic weathering...
The price was great, both, shipped, for about 40$
From England, only about 4 days shipping to Canada. Beats Weathley any time :p

here's what they look like. One had the metal separators which leaves these bumps, the other had the foam insert glued. The glue looks to be some sort of vintage contact cement. It leaves an even residue. I think I'll just paint over it, unless someone has a good idea on how to properly remove it.

What's the best paint to get? Textured brown or hammered? Should I do an undercoat of gold over the silver?
 
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