Fallout, Vault-Tec Scientist Dosimeter
- Thread starter zapwizard
- Start date
Same answer, no promises.
What I meant was that if I know I will be doing a run, I end up working differently. It puts me into a different mindset.
That said, I am designing this so it can be reproduced. For example the first on/off switch that I selected showed up as going obsolete next February. So rather than leave it as is, I altered the design to use a different switch. Some items like the money clip may or not be in-stock later. (It can be reproduced by hand, but not with as high quality)
The hardest item to find.. That silver trim ring around the gauge. I don't want to have it be the only silver spray painted component on a build with real metal.
It seems like such as simple component. There are million products out there have a similar trim ring. Now, try to actually find that component to purchase, then try to find it with a 26mm ID and a 30mm OD, such that it fits the proportions of the prop. They simply don't exist as a singular component you can purchase. They are all custom made for their particular product.
I spent hours trying to find that ring. I searched for watch bezels, clock bezels, gauge bezels, stove dial bezels, replacement parts for car ignition switches. Nothing fit the size needed.
I can pay someone to make it on a lathe, (and I may still do that.) I may have it made in silver plated brass at Shapeways, but that will cost $30. For now I plan on taking this aluminum ring from McMaster, and sanding it to have the right rounded profile.
Now, if I were to know I had to make a few dozen of these for 'x' dollars, I would be force myself to design that ring to be easy and cheap to reproduce.
Once I am done, I will go back and look at what it would take to put together a kit. But I get very limited personal time that I have to split all sorts of ways, I still have to finish the Pip-Boy and BOS Holotags.
What I meant was that if I know I will be doing a run, I end up working differently. It puts me into a different mindset.
That said, I am designing this so it can be reproduced. For example the first on/off switch that I selected showed up as going obsolete next February. So rather than leave it as is, I altered the design to use a different switch. Some items like the money clip may or not be in-stock later. (It can be reproduced by hand, but not with as high quality)
The hardest item to find.. That silver trim ring around the gauge. I don't want to have it be the only silver spray painted component on a build with real metal.
It seems like such as simple component. There are million products out there have a similar trim ring. Now, try to actually find that component to purchase, then try to find it with a 26mm ID and a 30mm OD, such that it fits the proportions of the prop. They simply don't exist as a singular component you can purchase. They are all custom made for their particular product.
I spent hours trying to find that ring. I searched for watch bezels, clock bezels, gauge bezels, stove dial bezels, replacement parts for car ignition switches. Nothing fit the size needed.
I can pay someone to make it on a lathe, (and I may still do that.) I may have it made in silver plated brass at Shapeways, but that will cost $30. For now I plan on taking this aluminum ring from McMaster, and sanding it to have the right rounded profile.
Now, if I were to know I had to make a few dozen of these for 'x' dollars, I would be force myself to design that ring to be easy and cheap to reproduce.
Once I am done, I will go back and look at what it would take to put together a kit. But I get very limited personal time that I have to split all sorts of ways, I still have to finish the Pip-Boy and BOS Holotags.
One thing I want to try to do is make an authentic looking manual for the Dosimeter. So I looked up old manuals for Geiger Counters, and came across the above amazing manual. It not only is the operational instructions, but it also contains the servicing details and schematic. I will emulate the contents to create my own all-in-one manual.
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To that end, I had some fun inside photoshop, and made the cover to the manual. Getting the look just right required lots of layering and blending. Later I will try to optimize the process so I can add more pages easily.
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(The below photo is NOT rendering)
I received some of the prototype parts in the mail. The toogle switch, dress nut, glass disk, and dial indicator.
The widest part of that dial indicator is just 1.4mm wide, and it is only 0.18mm thick! (Quarter for scale) I am not even quite sure how I will attach it the 1mm shaft on the air core motor yet.
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(Back to the regularly scheduled renderings)
Another day, another exploded view. This time done in Keyshot. Making these helps me figure out how I will paint some of the pieces, and what parts may cause trouble.
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(Still just a rendering)
I updated a few things in the design after receiving the prototype parts. I realized there would be a lot of light leakage around the motor, so I added some plastic to make a shroud. I also removed plastic from behind the gauge display, it will now just be made from cardstock with no plastic behind it.
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The back/bottom were also tweaked. I changed from using embossed text, to a adhesive label. The embossed text would be very hard to keep clean while painting, and may not even turn out well. A label is more authentic anyways. I hope to get a local Austin Texas supplier: Drake Industries to make me a few real metal labels. I have used them for over a decade on work projects. They even have panel labels that are sitting on the moon!
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I should get all the McMaster parts on Friday, I went ahead and also ordered most of the Pip-Boy hardware also.
@Hik, thanks, I corrected that.
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Today more prototype parts arrived. Hardware from McMaster. The big aluminum tube is from a high quality supplier I am familiar with out in Chander, Az. The pipe is seamless, so it will polish up very well. Although I will probably give it a brushed or randomized finish.
The "Cheese" head screw isn't as tapered as I hoped, it has very square sides, similar to a hex head screw. But that is just a minor detail.
The steel end cap fits just perfectly on the end of the tube. You can adjust the little grips on it to make it fit tight or loose. (In case I want to add some features inside the tube)
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Okay, so my workshop isn't quite setup yet, good thing I have a good camera to blur out the mess.
Since I don't have a lathe at my disposal, I have to setup a poor man's lathe using a hand drill. I super-glued the aluminum washer onto the end of whatever I had handy that was the right size. In this case it was a coax cable wall trim piece.
Then using a variety of files, sandpaper and polishing methods I shaped and polished the metal.
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Before and after polishing. The ring was exactly the size specified in the drawings too, so there should be no issues with the fit.
----------------------------
Today more prototype parts arrived. Hardware from McMaster. The big aluminum tube is from a high quality supplier I am familiar with out in Chander, Az. The pipe is seamless, so it will polish up very well. Although I will probably give it a brushed or randomized finish.
The "Cheese" head screw isn't as tapered as I hoped, it has very square sides, similar to a hex head screw. But that is just a minor detail.
The steel end cap fits just perfectly on the end of the tube. You can adjust the little grips on it to make it fit tight or loose. (In case I want to add some features inside the tube)
----------------------------
Okay, so my workshop isn't quite setup yet, good thing I have a good camera to blur out the mess.
Since I don't have a lathe at my disposal, I have to setup a poor man's lathe using a hand drill. I super-glued the aluminum washer onto the end of whatever I had handy that was the right size. In this case it was a coax cable wall trim piece.
Then using a variety of files, sandpaper and polishing methods I shaped and polished the metal.
----------------------------
Before and after polishing. The ring was exactly the size specified in the drawings too, so there should be no issues with the fit.
One of the most underutilized objects you can build with a 3D printer is a good jig. As the post above mentioned, I don't have a lathe, so I have to figure out a way to machine the aluminum tube. I could just measure, and eyeball the position of all the holes, but the end result wouldn't be as precise. There is also the issue that two of the holes are at an oblique angle to the tube, making them very difficult to drill. So I have designed a jig, to be printed on a FDM machine. The jig sets all the holes in exactly the right spot, driven by the CAD model.
Here is how it works:
1) 3D print the jig, and ream out the holes with the various drill bits.
2) Lower the end of the pipe into the jig.
3) Use the small space between the clamps to make the final length of the part.
4) Rotate the pipe in the jig, while using the file to set the accent line.
5) Clamp the pipe in place by compressing the top portion of the jig
6) Drill six 1/4" sized holes.
7) Drill two 1/8" size holes.
8) Loosen the clamp
9) Align the six hole with the step bit hole, use this hole to finish the 1/4" holes to a final 7/16" size, with a small counter-sink.
10) Remove the pipe and cut to length.
I made the chamber that goes onto the side of the Dosimeter. I recorded video of the process, which I may post tomorrow if I get time to edit it. I may also re-make it tomorrow with a bit less countersinking on the holes (And a better video camera angle.)
I am glad I made this part from real metal, it just feels to nice to the touch. There is no substitute for the look of the real thing. Since it is mostly thin-wall aluminum tube, it is amazingly light. Since it is also 6061-T6 Aluminum, so it is also very strong.
TheShinyOne
Well-Known Member
If you are open to some criticism, the look of the manual seems a bit off to me. Considering the old ways of printing these (in one color) the front image has too much color in it.
Since I work with Photoshop all day everyday (and have been since the past 12 years) I think you are making things too difficult for yourself. If you take your image and remove all saturation, and add it in the top layer with the layer effect on Multiply, then all you have to do is turn down the layer-opacity a little and add some noise. Then you have a very similar image. Making a distorted version is also very easy. Just add a layer with eroded/destroyed paper. Hope this helps in any way.
Since I work with Photoshop all day everyday (and have been since the past 12 years) I think you are making things too difficult for yourself. If you take your image and remove all saturation, and add it in the top layer with the layer effect on Multiply, then all you have to do is turn down the layer-opacity a little and add some noise. Then you have a very similar image. Making a distorted version is also very easy. Just add a layer with eroded/destroyed paper. Hope this helps in any way.
TheShinyOne
Your probably right, I left too much color. I am using a color layer with multiply. However, if you look at more of these types of manuals, the carbon ink on top doesn't actually yellow. You sometimes end up with faded manuals, but rather grey (not yellow) cast images on top. I was trying to emulate that subtle effect.
Most of the other blending was doing was to make the image and text look like it was printed cheaply.
I like your 2nd image. The first is good, but my goal is to make the final set of images look like a scan of a printed copy. I may print an actual physical copy later with manila paper for the cover.
Your probably right, I left too much color. I am using a color layer with multiply. However, if you look at more of these types of manuals, the carbon ink on top doesn't actually yellow. You sometimes end up with faded manuals, but rather grey (not yellow) cast images on top. I was trying to emulate that subtle effect.
Most of the other blending was doing was to make the image and text look like it was printed cheaply.
I like your 2nd image. The first is good, but my goal is to make the final set of images look like a scan of a printed copy. I may print an actual physical copy later with manila paper for the cover.
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I laser cut the piece that goes inside the canister from 1mm thick Delrin. I then sanded it a bit to make it more grey. Then I heated it up and formed it to fit inside the canister. It really takes it from a "Pipe" to something that looks scientific.
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I remade the metal canister, this time without the countersinking on the holes. I made a better video on this part, but the editing is taking time.
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I wanted the label on the rear of the Dosimeter to be 100% authentic looking. For this I used a 1/32" thick real aluminum label, and laser etched the artwork into the surface. The metal is soft enough to cut with good scissors. This label will last for a few hundred years. (At the request of Vault-Tec of course)
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I printed the Rad gauge face on high quality card stock, and then cut it out using the laser. I may try re-making this using a laser printer to see if I can get a more solid shade of black.
GhostMinion
Sr Member
Dude, this is turning out amazing. :thumbsup
You're making this prop more and more desirable.
You're making this prop more and more desirable.
Wonderful. I especially like the engineering thought, all the way through to design-for-assembly (a step some people forget!)
Is the plate anodized aluminium? Or did you paint it then laser etch the paint layer?
It sounds like you've got a good chip for what you want out of it, but if you aren't already familiar you might look into the ATtinys (kid brother to the ATmega that the first generations of Arduino were built around.) Several of the series are low-power consumption plus a really easy software sleep mode. Last projects I did were still through-hole (for easier programming) but even there you can get down to an 8-pin dip which is very nice for shaving space inside those tiny enclosures. That with bells on when you go to the surface mount, of course!
Is the plate anodized aluminium? Or did you paint it then laser etch the paint layer?
It sounds like you've got a good chip for what you want out of it, but if you aren't already familiar you might look into the ATtinys (kid brother to the ATmega that the first generations of Arduino were built around.) Several of the series are low-power consumption plus a really easy software sleep mode. Last projects I did were still through-hole (for easier programming) but even there you can get down to an 8-pin dip which is very nice for shaving space inside those tiny enclosures. That with bells on when you go to the surface mount, of course!
nomuse:
The serial label plate is anodized aluminum. We get them at work from the aforementioned Drake Industries, specifically for use as serial tags.
I am familiar with the ATmega and have used the first generations of Arduinos on projects before. I have also used the MSP430, and I can use the same programming language as Arduino and port it over, or just use C++ which I am comfortable enough with. The MSP430 is available in a DIP package also, but I won't have room for a DIP. I am using a TSOP instead.
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Small project update:
I have already ordered the front and back 3D printed in SLS nylon from Shapeways. They should arrive in a week or less. I have been tweaking the electrical design, anyone wanting to review it (still in progress) can find it on CircuitMaker.
The serial label plate is anodized aluminum. We get them at work from the aforementioned Drake Industries, specifically for use as serial tags.
I am familiar with the ATmega and have used the first generations of Arduinos on projects before. I have also used the MSP430, and I can use the same programming language as Arduino and port it over, or just use C++ which I am comfortable enough with. The MSP430 is available in a DIP package also, but I won't have room for a DIP. I am using a TSOP instead.
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Small project update:
I have already ordered the front and back 3D printed in SLS nylon from Shapeways. They should arrive in a week or less. I have been tweaking the electrical design, anyone wanting to review it (still in progress) can find it on CircuitMaker.
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Today my SLS 3D printed parts arrived from Shapeways. They came dyed yellow and I love the way they look. I will still be polishing and painting them to a high gloss finish, but for now it’s fun just to put it all together and see how it looks.
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This is just a mock-up, nothing is permanently attached, and there are no electronics inside. But it already looks the part. It’s a bit heavy. Of course that means it’s expensive. Hanging it on a shirt pocket may require some magnetic reinforcement.
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It may be some time before I get to building the electronics. This is the current state of my new Vault-Tec themed office. Paint on the walls, with more paint work to go. My garage workshop is in similar shambles.
I even had to make this post on using my phone.
Saw your comment in the F76 Pip Boy thread about how you're looking for case inspiration. My notion, for you to consider or not, is something like the case for the oscillation overthruster in Buckaroo Banzai:
(I can't remember who on here did this particular build, but folks on here know the case and handle and such.)
...Decoed reminiscent of the case for the bluetooth Pip Boy:
(I can't remember who on here did this particular build, but folks on here know the case and handle and such.)
...Decoed reminiscent of the case for the bluetooth Pip Boy:
I am looking for retro cases. But that one unfortunately looks exactly like my grandmothers makeup case from the 1960’s. Latches and all.
I don’t want to use the same case as the Bluetooth edition either. My goal is to make it look and feel like real (old school) commercial packaging, so no cradling foam.
I don’t want to use the same case as the Bluetooth edition either. My goal is to make it look and feel like real (old school) commercial packaging, so no cradling foam.
I wasn't saying use the bluetooth case -- just suggesting being mindful of the markings: The Vault-Tec logo and "property of" markings, the contents, etc.
The Vault-Tec / RobCo remote office is coming together.
I bought the Radioactive Material sign off Esty, and the Fallout Shelter sign off eBay. The shelter sign is 100% real government issue with reflective paint. The ceiling fan is from Home Depot and is galvanized steel.
I have my desk and others things added, but lots more to do. I plan on having an electronics workbench in front of the window. Except my electronics shipment seems to have been lost by UPS.
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Tonight I redid the front and rear covers of the instruction manual. How dedicated am I to getting things right? I just paid $45 to get the perfectly matched font for the title. I know that I could have just used the original image for the titile, but the font will be re-used in other areas of the manual, as well as for the future Pip-Boy documentation. The other font I already had. (Futura)
The goal is to make the entire manual look as it if were a old scanned document.
I tweaked all the fonts and blending to make the faded black to a redish/purple text. I have been looking up lots of civil defense manuals and booklets on archive.org. Some of them are very interesting reads. Like building yourself a shelter out of curved asbestos cement sheets and covering those with sandbags.
