You just made me more confused. The neuralizer is chrome plated brass isn't it? If not i am confused as to why some of the neuralizers have brass showing through at the lever area.
I hope the same issue of having brass show through doesn't pop up with the J2. I'm with bowelrock, do it accurate and don't worry about having to polish it once in a while. I would rather have a prop i can handle all the time that requires nothing more than a polishing rag to get looking spiffy than have a chrome plated item like the neuralizer i am affraid to touch too much for fear of messing up some coating that is non repairable once worn. The neuralizer is nice but the scratches that happen to the side of it everytime it pops up are permanent and will continue untill the finish is worn off. If it was aluminum it could be polished out with a little Mothers. That being said we know you will just do plated monkey metal anyways.
Well its the same 'look' but not the same material. The J-Gun replica will look cosmetically like the Neuralyzer surface but it is not made the same way and is not being chromium plated. Nor is brass being used in the J-Gun replica body in any way.
Trying not to be too technical; the neuralyzer surface coating is dictated largely by function, the pieces move against each other and so tolerances and fit between components is key for that piece. The J-Gun replica does not have these same issues so the construction and surface finishes are entirely different.
For the neuralyzer after the pieces are 'chromed' they are buffed on a polishing wheel. we have had one reported case of a neuralyzer with the base brass showing through and having inspected it, it was likely caused by over zealous application of the wheel at this stage, or more likely was a bad plate job (where the plate did nit flow and or adhere correctly in that area) to begin with.
The chrome plate used on the neuralyzer is pretty durable. You would have to polish pretty hard with an abrasive cleaner to actually polish it off or polish it down to the base metal. The best cleaner for Chrome is soap and water but the electronic nature of the neuralyzer makes this impossible. You can use chrome cleaners with a cloth but be VERY careful not to get any of the electronics wet or damp in any way. As ZombieKiller says the best cleaner for a neuralyzer is a dry polishing cloth after each handling. Neuraylzers should not be scratching on the side when they pop up unless dirt or foreign contaminant is trapped in there or its not working correctly? The metal parts should only be in contact with the ABS parts and any contact marks they might leave should polish out without issue.
The J-Gun replica will have some solid components that are highly polished metal, others will be plated and then polished. But the overall cosmetic look will be the same, a bright shiny surface. Accurate to the film.
Our concern from the OP is that a different type of surface is preferred. We have handled the original props a lot, actually we were in the Sony archive just yesterday. We can tell you that all the original MIB prop guns are looking pretty sorry for themselves now, they now have a flat and dull finish that almost looks like a brushed effect or a zinc/anodized finish. This is due to age and tarnish and there is not really anything anybody can do about it without potentially damaging them. This aging is not causing damage to the props, but it is affecting their cosmetic appearance.
Typically the biggest problem with any shiny metallic surface that is likley to be handled is greasy fingerprints showing up, these are best wiped off with a clean dry polishing cloth after each handling.
Our question for RPF readers is; do people prefer a screen accurate shiny 'chrome' look on the J-Gun or do they prefer an aged or more dull look?
Interested to learn peoples opinions.....
