I hope I did not mislead anyone by calling this a “plate carrier”. I see Rita does wear a carrier which looks like it is made of thick EVA foam. Calling this her workout or training vest might be more accurate.
Edge of Tomorrow Vest has Front, Back, and Shoulder Pad components. Front is tactical mesh with a partial canvas lining, seven horizontal Mollie straps, and two shoulder straps. The film version seems to have shoulder pads permanently attached to the shoulder straps (but could be made adjustable). Back is a separate canvas piece which attaches to the Front under each arm via three velcro omni-tape straps and two shoulder straps via spring loaded cam buckles. (In the film the actor also wears a black bandeau top under the vest.)
Suggested materials; Black Tactical Mesh, Black lining fabric (Canvas), Black Banding fabric (Performance knit), 1” Black Nylon Webbing, 1” Nylon Gliders (quantity 6), 1” Spring Loaded Cam Buckles (quantity 2), 1” Velcro Omni Tape.
Pattern Design: I made an individual pattern for proper fit and construction layout. I needed the following measurements (my model's values in parenthesis);
Vest Width (VW) - side-to-side, from underarm to underarm at their widest measure + 1” (19”)
Vest Height (VH) - from the bottom of the belly button to the “upper slope” of bust (13”)
With arms relaxed and hanging by side,
Front Shoulder Width (FSW) – Chest/arm junction to chest/arm across “upper slope” - 1” (8”)
Back Shoulder Width (BSW) – Shoulder blade to shoulder blade (9”)
Shoulder Strap Length (SSL) – from “upper slope”, over shoulder to opposite shoulder blade (13”)
The front will contain seven 1” horizontal webbing straps labeled “A” at top to “G”. This will provide for six equal height mesh spaces between the straps. This Individual Space Height (ISH) will be calculated. From film images, there is one top mesh space approximated 2 * ISH high and one bottom space approximately 4 * ISH high. Using these assumptions there are 12 * ISH units of mesh space.
Total Spacing Height (TSH) = VH – 7” of webbing (13 – 7 = 6”)
Individual Spacing Height (ISH) = TSH / 12 (6” / 12 = 1/2”)
To draft pattern “1” for the Front Mesh, draw a vertical center line and horizontal bust line. I would start marking the strap placement with the location you want for strap “C” (for comfort above, on, or below the peak bust point.) On the film images, the bust line seems to be slightly above strap “C”. Then mark parallel, horizontal lines up and down the pattern piece using your own ISH values and 1” for straps. The mesh width from the top of “C” up is FSW. The mesh width from the top of “C” down is VH. Mark positions for the shoulder strap attachment from bottom of “C” up, 1/2 inch in from the mesh edge. These straps can be labeled “L” and “R” for left and right. Round the two corners on the top edge and two corners on the bottom edge. There are no seams or no seam allowances for this piece. Label this pattern piece “1”, “Front”, and an instruction, “Cut One from Mesh”
The second pattern piece (“2”) will be the Lining. This piece starts by tracing the top of “B” and bottom of “D” from piece “1”. Trace the “stair-step” on each side to complete the pattern. Add a 1/2” seam allowance to all sides on this new pattern piece. Label this piece “2”, “Lining”, and an instruction, “Cut One from Lining”.
The third pattern piece (“3”) will be the Back. For me its finished form is a rectangle but some images would indicate an “hourglass” shape could be possible. The height of the finished piece will match the height from piece “1” as measured from the top of strap ”C” to the bottom of strap “G” (7”). The width of this piece is BSW (9”). Keep the height of this piece constant to match and align with piece “1”. (The width can be increased or decreased or curved concave based on the wearer's comfort and modesty). There will be three straps attached to the Back on each side – top, center, bottom. The attachment location is a 1” x 2” wide rectangle. These locations can be label “H”. Each side strap is 1” web topped with 1” omni-tape. When worn, each “H” strap runs around the side, up through the associated “C”, “E” or “G” strap triglide buckle, clinched snug, and folds back onto itself to hold. The length of each “H” will vary and found by fit.
Next locate the Shoulder Cinch Strap positions . At each top corner a strap “J” is attached with a 1” x 1” boxed “X” stitch. These straps are angled toward the top of the opposite shoulder. For my model this was 40 degrees from vertical. When worn, the Cinch Straps tread through the metal guide of the opposite side Shoulder Pad's spring buckle, around the cam, and back along itself. Tighten by pulling the working end, loosen by lifting cam tongue. Next add a 1/2” seam allow to all four sides. Label this piece “3”, “Back”, and an instruction, “Cut Two from Lining”
The Shoulder Pads ride on the 1” web shoulder straps “L” and “R” which run from the Front. The pad is 2” wide with rounded ends. Top side has 5 web loops the shoulder straps run through. The spring loaded cam buckle and the end of the shoulder strap is sewn 3” from the end. Label this piece “4”, “Shoulder Pad”, and an instruction, “Cut Four from Lining, Cut 2 from Foam”.
