Limited Run DL44 TFA Blaster Kit

Okay others are posting their left sides; here is mine:

RF1T029.jpg


I used aluminum tape on the plastic parts , epoxied in place, sanded flush and then hit it with some flat black rattlecan. Buffed with steel wool to bring out the tape and I think it looks alright.
 
thanks guys for the nice feedback .
i dont know what its called in english , its a sort of two component putty that comes i a stick that you mash togheter to blend and activate , this i mixed with a lot of aluminium filings to make it take the blueing ( witch it sortof did )

nice work! what did you fill the holes with, cant even see where they were once blued! and does the trigger still work
 
Nice work going on here!

These blasters are fine examples. Images look great. !

Very brave LF ! I use my dremel like that all the time but it takes nerves of steel! Stainless steel. ! ;)
depth control is the key. You can also use tape around the cutter to create a sort of "stop" to help keep the death consistent.

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thanks guys for the nice feedback .
i dont know what its called in english , its a sort of two component putty that comes i a stick that you mash togheter to blend and activate , this i mixed with a lot of aluminium filings to make it take the blueing ( witch it sortof did )

Its epoxy putty. They make steel filled version that would take the blue but you improvised! Very cool.
You could also use the filings from the HFC body which is zinc.

Great thinking.
 
Hi David,

I mentioned that I got my parts a week or so ago and can't wait to get started.

However, after having a proper look at the parts, I've just noticed that the plastic covering plate was not included.

Are there any spares available?

Thanks in advance

Steve
 
Hi David,

I mentioned that I got my parts a week or so ago and can't wait to get started.

However, after having a proper look at the parts, I've just noticed that the plastic covering plate was not included.

Are there any spares available?

Thanks in advance

Steve
Have you looked at the back of the paper the parts where glued to ? I also thought mine was missing , but there it was taped to the back :)
 
dl44_0612_2016.jpg

This is mine for now. Mostly blued parts. I need to find a short clip or cut the long clip shorter if I can find a tutorial. The left side is stock for now. I am going to wait for the "Metal TFA DL-44 Left Side Details Plate" run that tomm1999 is hopefully going to do in the interest thread.

dl44_0612_2016.jpg
 
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Haha, double dumb ass on me. I feel like a complete plonker! Thanks for the tip!

Can't believe I missed that!!

Cheers

Steve
Have you looked at the back of the paper the parts where glued to ? I also thought mine was missing , but there it was taped to the back :)
 
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WOW! very cool stuff!
But I made the mystery knob with the counterbore to hold glue, the flat side should be facing out it looks like in the pics
Hope you are able to get it off, sorry.
It still looks good with the counter bore out, adds a little detail.
 
Perhaps I missed it, but has anyone provided directions on how to remove the switch from the left side, while still enabling the trigger to work?
 
Perhaps I missed it, but has anyone provided directions on how to remove the switch from the left side, while still enabling the trigger to work?

Actually I just had an idea about that today, I am going to put mine in the lathe and turn off the big selector part and just leave a small head on the shaft,
put it back in with the screw, then I can counter bore the plastic side plate to go over it, I will post a pic as soon as I try it, maybe this weekend,
 
Perhaps I missed it, but has anyone provided directions on how to remove the switch from the left side, while still enabling the trigger to work?

I cut the switch from the post and reinstalled it and it fires just fine.
 
I cut the switch from the post and reinstalled it and it fires just fine.

Does the bolt on the right side hold the post securely in place when you tighten it down after cutting it off of the switch? As long as the post still reaches the hole on the left side it should be OK?
 
Does the bolt on the right side hold the post securely in place when you tighten it down after cutting it off of the switch? As long as the post still reaches the hole on the left side it should be OK?

I dropped it in from the left side and secured it with the screw on the right. It's a little recessed from the frame but it's secure
 
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