Limited Run DL44 TFA Blaster Kit

Gorgeous! When you cut the barrels down, did you separate them from each other, or just cut them both at the same time
in one piece? I have my pistol disassembled, but can't see how to get the barrels apart.

Again, great looking blaster!

I cut both at the same time, then crowned the inner barrel and blew out the detrius from the cutting with some compressed air; shoots nice and straight still.

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Did you end up using the plastic plate on the other side? What did you do to the grips to get that darker color?

Yep, not a bad fit actually. For the grips, I covered them in Minwax #225 Red Mahogany stain, let dry then buffed. Then I used some games workshop citadel brown earth paint on the high features, and some dark brown "ink" on the recessed areas. Scuffed up a bit more and I think they came out looking a lot more like real wood.
 
I cut both at the same time, then crowned the inner barrel and blew out the detrius from the cutting with some compressed air; shoots nice and straight still.

Thanks for the info! Probably going to tackle that tonight!

I've replaced barrels in some airsoft guns, and sometimes there's a notch at the end of the outer
barrel that the inner sits flush against, and without that recess the inner barrel can actually fall
out! So it's good to know that's not the case here!

 
Thanks for the info! Probably going to tackle that tonight!

I've replaced barrels in some airsoft guns, and sometimes there's a notch at the end of the outer
barrel that the inner sits flush against, and without that recess the inner barrel can actually fall
out! So it's good to know that's not the case here!


Not the case with this pistol... I've actually been playing airsoft for 14 years and have never seen a barrel setup like that... but good to know.
 
Got mine a few days ago. Thanks very much.

I'm almost too scared to begin so if anyone is planning on doing assembly videos, it will be appreciated.

Have never modified anything like this!
Cheers
 
I bought some aluminum that is the same thickness as the selector plate cover. I'm thinking I could trace it and maybe cut it with a dremel unless someone else has a better idea
 
I too am interested in any tips for removal of the selector switch before I mistakenly destroy my model. Thanks!
 
People are taking the selector switch out. Remove screw from other side and it will fall out

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I bought some aluminum that is the same thickness as the selector plate cover. I'm thinking I could trace it and maybe cut it with a dremel unless someone else has a better idea
I did the same, going to cut on CNC, but I have to draw it first in shopbot
 
People are taking the selector switch out. Remove screw from other side and it will fall out

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I did the same, going to cut on CNC, but I have to draw it first in shopbot

That sounds like a better approach!
 
Very thin metal plate epoxied to the inside of the gun lower frame, jbweld to fill the holes, machine appropriately is how i would do it if i hadn't used the plate.
 
I have a feeling that this is going to be the bottleneck in most builds. I bought some JB Weld SteelStik Epoxy Putty. Thinking of using this. Has anyone else used it? Any suggestions? I am using Aluminum Blue on everything possible (and Super Blue on the pewter pieces). Not sure how the putty will look with the blued aluminum. Then there is the plastic plate issue. How to blend that in. I am trying to avoid spray painting the body if at all possible.
 
Just remember that the selector switch has a post that goes through to the other side and gets screwed in.
it will not fire without the post going through because the trigger rests against it,
take the switch off, then cut the post off and screw it back in and glue the top to hold it then put the cover plate over that.
 
I don't know why people are opposed to using paint on the body of the blaster, if you look at reference photos the hero prop was clearly painted.
 
For the grips, I covered them in Minwax #225 Red Mahogany stain, let dry then buffed. Then I used some games workshop citadel brown earth paint on the high features, and some dark brown "ink" on the recessed areas. Scuffed up a bit more and I think they came out looking a lot more like real wood.

Tempted to try the Red Mahogany Stain on mine. Can you show a picture of what the left side looks like with the plastic plate?
 
I'll be replacing the plastic plate with a 1/16th aluminum piece that I will waterjet cut. My question is when mounting the scope mount, I drill and tap the holes for the threaded rod. Then the two aluminum discs go onto the rods. However because of the difference in the heights between the mag well and the rear of the gun the aluminum bar sits at an angle. Do I shim it till it sits level?
 
I'll be replacing the plastic plate with a 1/16th aluminum piece that I will waterjet cut. My question is when mounting the scope mount, I drill and tap the holes for the threaded rod. Then the two aluminum discs go onto the rods. However because of the difference in the heights between the mag well and the rear of the gun the aluminum bar sits at an angle. Do I shim it till it sits level?

This is the one flaw I found with the DEC kit; two aluminum spacers of different heights would have solved the problem, but not a biggie. I put a 1/4" lock washer between the first spacer and the crossbar, then i simply tightened the top disc until the scope was true to the rest of the gun.

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Tempted to try the Red Mahogany Stain on mine. Can you show a picture of what the left side looks like with the plastic plate?

My DL44 is sitting on display in a local airsoft shop for a bit, I'll see if I can swing by to get some pics soonish.
 
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