DL-44 Builds - Real Parts ANH, ESB - MGC ROTJ, FM Greedo

Long awaited update and a new edition to the family! An MGC DL-44 ROTJ, as good as I could get it!

The ANH, Luke ESB and ROTJ are all as accurate as I could get them, with a real hensoldt and M19 scope and real vintage parts on the ROTJ. It’s otherwise fieldmarshall parts. I went with the metal flash hider as I preferred it!

Next on the list.... Greedo Killer with MGC....

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After seeing Scotts builds with the FieldMarshall Steel Mauser, I thought i'd reach out to FM to order a greedo killer set and after discussions about shipping to the UK, I received it before the weekend and begun work! Ideally id have used an MGC but I've had minimal luck finding one and the FM Steel Mausers look (and are) stunning). The build will be as follows:

- FM Steel C96 Mauser (Replacement parts being sent out as some of mine are missing machining bits, so no photos till then...).
- Wooden Grips - Finished via my usual 'stain, tru-oil, sheen' method.
- FM Aluminium Bracket + Mount
- FM Scope with Upgraded parts.
- FM Heat sink
- Vintage Flash hider.
- Vintage Scope Mounts


As we're on Corona-lockdown, Ill be doing bits where I can and update as i go along!
 
Very nice.
what do you mean paint or lacquer the scope? is it annodized for now? it looks really nice already and pretty close to a real one from what I'm seeing on your photo.
looking forward to see the rest. (y)
 
Very nice.
what do you mean paint or lacquer the scope? is it annodized for now? it looks really nice already and pretty close to a real one from what I'm seeing on your photo.
looking forward to see the rest. (y)

Yep - it’s the standard anodised one! Just trying to match the original scope finish but not sure what they originally used.
 
Just some REALLY tough polished-semi, or straight-up gloss black paint was used on the originals, from what I can tell, with the three I've had.

A couple good ways of getting a close match:

-Paint with Alclad's Gloss Black Base, let cure 24hrs or so, then burnish w/paper towel

-Paint with Krylon or Rust-O-Leum Professional Semi-Gloss Black, let cure at least overnight and again, rub that sucker down with a paper towel

The trick, for me, seems to be in the final polish/finishing of the paint. Lemme see if I can find some pics....
 
Just some REALLY tough polished-semi, or straight-up gloss black paint was used on the originals, from what I can tell, with the three I've had.

A couple good ways of getting a close match:

-Paint with Alclad's Gloss Black Base, let cure 24hrs or so, then burnish w/paper towel

-Paint with Krylon or Rust-O-Leum Professional Semi-Gloss Black, let cure at least overnight and again, rub that sucker down with a paper towel

The trick, for me, seems to be in the final polish/finishing of the paint. Lemme see if I can find some pics....

Leaves me something to think about. Being in the UK I was thinking of Halfords gloss black enamel, but the anodising is already very good! Hence why I thought just a clear gloss lacquer on it might actually make it a bit better.


It’s really difficult to find anything on how scopes were finished. Some suggest a ‘Japan Black’ but generally there seems to be little to no guidance.
 
I think you'll probably be the best judge, it will be hard for us to see on photos. The most important I think is to have something really smooth, so you would probably have to polish the paint. But it looks nice from what I can see on the photo :)
 
What eethan said. It's looking good in the pic, but hard to tell without natural daylight and without actually being there.

You'll definitely want to polish at the end, regardless of what you use, I agree.
 
The automotive lacquer does give it a nice deep black and pick up some more gloss to it. I’ll have to pre-weather it to remove the anodising safely first. Added benefit is that it can be polished to a high sheen.

I’ll give a gloss black enamel a go also, though that can’t be polished.
 
I decided to go with a lacquering of the scope. You can see here the difference between the anodised and the lacquered surface.

A up close and detailed look at at the scope however has highlighted how light the Knurl is unfortunately. I’ll have to stick it in my lathe at some point and re-knurl it. I have to admit, FM does some fantastic work but of the parts I received from him, 3 have had flaws and 2 are being returned. Mauser Upper was missing stamping, Mauser sight was missing a machining cut, scope has very light kneeling (almost smooth).



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I'm not sure how light the knurling is on your scope bells, I can see it nicelly on the photos on the previous post but the knurling on my real bells seems quite light too.
Sorry to hear about the other issues you have with your parts though :(
 
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