DIY solution for clear soles for MAG shoes
- Thread starter cavx
- Start date
cavx
Master Member
Correct. Most products that are suitable for this type of application are toxic and or need specialized equipment - ie a vacuum chamber. I documented the "safe" rubber being the cold cast clear elastomer. $200+ later and I don't have soles I can actually use :unsure
Shoe Goo at least seems to represent a cost effective, safe, workable solution. The challenge is if you guys can find the mat I used. If not, I am happy to source it and sell it in A4 sheets at cost. I am not looking for a profit, just not to run at a loss. You also need to find a release agent so you can get the mat off the soles when they are done.
cavx
Master Member
Sorry guys, you will have to wait just a bit longer. I noticed that my right shoe was not centered on the mat, so when it would be time to pull up the sides, there was no going to be enough mat to reach the top. So I de-molded a little earlier to refix that. I don't think there was quite enough release agent as parts of the sole appear to have still been slightly tacky and 'torn'. This means I lost some definition in the base of the sole. Because it is the part I will walk on, I am not too fussed, so long as I have tread and these shoes are not suddenly slippery.
Anyway, it was easy to realign the mat back on to the sole as it interlocks like a lego or similar building block. Once repositioned, I was able to lay Shoe Goo on the side parts and fold the mat up, tape and clamp the sides to cure.
I didn't pour my sides at the same time because I inverted my shoes and the sides would probably just run out.
I also gave the sides a little wipe with more release agent and something interesting (good) happened. The Shoe Goo skinned on contact with the release agent, so there is no change this part will stick. I think I have even managed that flanged bit at the base. We will see soon enough. Wednesday morning now.
based on what I have seen, I will do the next pair [Size 8s] a little different to to the way I did my 10s.
I'll start by making a jig that the shoe and mat can sit down into. The challenge is keeping the mat following the contour of the sole [it curves up towards the toe], so it will need some form of wedge to keep the mat up.
The parts that cured did so really well and the shoes sets hard.
For Punisher, the idea of building the toe end of the mid sole up for toe correction might not work out as well as hoped. I had a big drip at the back of one of my shoes and this just lifted right off the mid sole material. I don't know exactly what it is, and I will guess by saying it is a type of urethane foam, but the Shoe Goo did not stick. Maybe spread over a large area may give a different result.
Anyway, it was easy to realign the mat back on to the sole as it interlocks like a lego or similar building block. Once repositioned, I was able to lay Shoe Goo on the side parts and fold the mat up, tape and clamp the sides to cure.
I didn't pour my sides at the same time because I inverted my shoes and the sides would probably just run out.
I also gave the sides a little wipe with more release agent and something interesting (good) happened. The Shoe Goo skinned on contact with the release agent, so there is no change this part will stick. I think I have even managed that flanged bit at the base. We will see soon enough. Wednesday morning now.
based on what I have seen, I will do the next pair [Size 8s] a little different to to the way I did my 10s.
I'll start by making a jig that the shoe and mat can sit down into. The challenge is keeping the mat following the contour of the sole [it curves up towards the toe], so it will need some form of wedge to keep the mat up.
The parts that cured did so really well and the shoes sets hard.
For Punisher, the idea of building the toe end of the mid sole up for toe correction might not work out as well as hoped. I had a big drip at the back of one of my shoes and this just lifted right off the mid sole material. I don't know exactly what it is, and I will guess by saying it is a type of urethane foam, but the Shoe Goo did not stick. Maybe spread over a large area may give a different result.
cavx
Master Member
OK it will be interesting to learn more about this. Last night I found a video that shoes using an ice cube to smooth the surface as the moister prevents it from sticking. I think from there, you could press into it for form the stippled surface.
Yeah, mine was pretty much run off. I think I just put this on too thick as well and why it taking forever to cure.
Yeah, mine was pretty much run off. I think I just put this on too thick as well and why it taking forever to cure.
punisher
Sr Member
I think having it"trapped" under a mat will prolong the cure time also because when I'm doing my type, even the first time after letting it set for 2 days, after I removed the wax it still had a strong smell as if it wasn't finished curing. Sooooo I'm wondering if some type of evaporation needs to take place to fully cure? How long has it been curing so far and how thick is it? For my toe area its about 1.5-2 mm thick and when I made the one I showed you in the video it took at least 2 our 3 days to be firm enough to remove. What about using a hair dryer and making
A thick test section by coating the mat and covering the other side with a plastic bag to seal off the goo simulating what's going on with your soles and then hair drying it to see if it speeds up the cutting proCess.
A thick test section by coating the mat and covering the other side with a plastic bag to seal off the goo simulating what's going on with your soles and then hair drying it to see if it speeds up the cutting proCess.
cavx
Master Member
Tomorrow is a week. My coasting is about 1.5~2.0mm thick as well, but as you pointed out, trapped between the sole and the mat, so no direct air contact. Not that different if it was still in the tube.
It would make sense that warm air will speed up the process. Right now we are in the middle of a cold snap, so if this stuff needs to be above X degrees to cure, then chances are that not happening for at about 12 hours of the day.
What ticked me off though is even though I used a release agent, parts of the Shoe Goo still stuck to the mat and when the mat was removed, pulled away the detail leaving me with what looks like a very worn sole in parts. Also so the "build up" I did at the sides slumped, so that will need redoing. I am guessing that I will need to sand this off and re-do it. Hopefully the rough surface from sanding will also provide a good adhesion.
Sounds good. $4 (even with postage) Vs $15. I'll PM you with a mailing address. Hope you accept PayPal. How much for a carton (12 pack?)?
punisher
Sr Member
Ok what about before applying to the soles, rub a thin coat on the inside of the mat and wait until it dries before rubbing in another layer using a gloved finger until you get it thick enough to remove without tearing.after that you can just trace the shape, cut it out and goo it into place. For my sides I think I'm going to apply high temperature glue in a thick even layer, remove, apply reflective tape to soles, reverse the got glue panels (which make small waffle print) and glue them down. I think I'll leave my bottom soles yellow .
cavx
Master Member
Assuming you can get the Shoe Goo to release off the mat, yes that would work. Given I saw a you tube video where the guy uses an ice cube to smooth out the Shoe Goo he is using to repair his shoes, maybe just wetting the mat with water. It kind of reminded me of the way clear silicon [the stuff you use to seal up a bath or fish tank] behaves when it comes in contact with water. It skins and does not stick.
Anyway, this stuff I have found has got me slight excited so I will follow up on this tomorrow and see what can be achieved.
Anyway, this stuff I have found has got me slight excited so I will follow up on this tomorrow and see what can be achieved.
cavx
Master Member
The shoe appears to have set (finally) and I did a quick wear to today to test for grip. I was actually surprised how grippy the Shoe Goo is. Anyway, as I am not satisfied with the finish, I'll be sanding it back and re-doing them.
The clear rubber mat looks a bit "military", but that does not concern me too much as these shoes are not screen accurate anyway. All I want is clear soles that grip and will last longer than the ones on the shoes.
I guess I will have to rough up the surface before attempting to glue them onto the shoes. More Shoo Goo *shakes head*.
The clear rubber mat looks a bit "military", but that does not concern me too much as these shoes are not screen accurate anyway. All I want is clear soles that grip and will last longer than the ones on the shoes.
I guess I will have to rough up the surface before attempting to glue them onto the shoes. More Shoo Goo *shakes head*.
NikeMags
New Member
So given that the cold cast clear elastomer requires specialist gear and skill, I decided not to continue down that path, rather choose a new one.
Shoe Goo!
I am hearing nothing but good reports about this stuff, so for the price, it worth a shot. I'll run a test first to see if this stuff sticks to the textured mat that I want to use for the tread impressions. If it peels away, this might be exactly the simple DIY solution.
An alternative to lighting.
Also, whilst I want lights, I have been thinking more and more about not adding them. The MAGs will just not look right without something, so I am getting a quote on some small pieces of 3M reflective light blue tape. Because it is adhesive, it could be stuck to the black part of the sole first, then the layered over with the Shoe Goo.
Does the lighting diagram fit the markpoons?
cavx
Master Member
I think so. I didn't do the original, so don't really know what size it was made for. I just decided it looked better drawn in Sketchup than on a piece of paper
I'd day make it 1:1 and trim it down if need be.
cavx
Master Member
OK its been a few months since I posted in this thread, but I've decided to re-vamp it because I've had a few break throughs and have some new ideas to get this done.
The "Stylized MAG" with its clear soles.
When I made these, I used a pyramid mat as the mold and as a result, all parts have the negative imprint. Whilst I think it looks cool, the negative tread really doesn't provide any grip on smooth surfaces like a tile floor.
The real shoes have a positive pyramid grip on their sole base and a negative impression on the side where the EL is.
So this is my next attempt to get this right.
They need a bit more glueing down and then a trim, but these are the original black rubber outer-soles off the MAG V1s that I removed with a heat gun. The clear thing in the middle is a slightly larger, more square version of of the pattern and will hopefully be used for the negative impression on the sides. The idea here is to make up the soles (you can see the rear portion of the soles in the back ground) by gluing the soles to the new surface and to create a matching pair of outer-soles that can then be cast. Of course these will have that nice splayed out shape like the real shoes have.
I'm all out of Shoe Goo and will go out to the garage to see what adhesives I have out there.
The "Stylized MAG" with its clear soles.
When I made these, I used a pyramid mat as the mold and as a result, all parts have the negative imprint. Whilst I think it looks cool, the negative tread really doesn't provide any grip on smooth surfaces like a tile floor.
The real shoes have a positive pyramid grip on their sole base and a negative impression on the side where the EL is.
So this is my next attempt to get this right.
They need a bit more glueing down and then a trim, but these are the original black rubber outer-soles off the MAG V1s that I removed with a heat gun. The clear thing in the middle is a slightly larger, more square version of of the pattern and will hopefully be used for the negative impression on the sides. The idea here is to make up the soles (you can see the rear portion of the soles in the back ground) by gluing the soles to the new surface and to create a matching pair of outer-soles that can then be cast. Of course these will have that nice splayed out shape like the real shoes have.
I'm all out of Shoe Goo and will go out to the garage to see what adhesives I have out there.
Where did you get the pyramid mats? I found a website that sells them, but it doesn't specify the size of the pyramids.
cavx
Master Member
I posted this image on page 1 of this thread showing a stainless steel rule next to them for a sense of scale. The mat itself comes on a roll and is 1200mm wide and you buy it by the meter.
That is 1cm BTW, not 1inch.
Similar threads
