Destiny MIDA Multitool (full build)

Starside Armory

New Member
Hello! This is my build of the MIDA Multitool scout rifle from Destiny. It is predominately layered MDF, then molded and cast in resin. This is my second serious gun build, so I was learning a lot as I went.


The scout rifle grip design appears to be based on an FN P90, a gun that I happened to have lying around from airsofting, ages ago. I drew a template in InkScape.


I cut the main body from MDF - one layer each of 3/4", 1/2" and 1/4". I cut the P90 grip as close as I could - luckily the gun has some plating that covers most of this seam. The plating and everything white is 2mm Celtec.


I don't have a lathe, so I used a drill press, a rubber expansion plug and the P90's brass barrel to turn the piece of 1" conduit that makes up the bolt. I used large hand files to carve the grooves. Less than ideal, but it came out alright.


More misuse of the press to drill the connecting pin shaft. This worked, but I don't recommend it.


First time using a table-mounted router for the foregrip grooves. Somehow that test piece came out better than my subsequent passes.


Here are some detail pictures of the nearly completed master.


The flippy display folds in on a 1/8" steel rod. The rail is another part from the P90. I was happy to recycle my first airsoft gun in this way! The open scope is PVC conduit turned on the makeshift lathe and an inexpensive but solid ring mount.


This LED torch is gently compression fit and toggled by pressing on the lens. The lens is covered with some adhesive laminate advertised as headlight tint. I hope to never encounter this tint on the road.


Final primer coat. This modular design was not only to make building and molding it easier. It also lets me build front ends from different scout rifles, which all share a similar receiver design.


Claying feels like the most time consuming step. It was only near the end that I thought of this strip method to easily create a uniform surface. The silicone plug between the carrying handles worked well, except for that little circular part hanging off one corner. That was very thin and did not work at all.


I tried to avoid claying for this part. It worked, but the thin shroud over the LED didn't cast well and I had to rebuild it from scratch on each copy. What I feel does not work is the traditional cone/dimple shaped registration key. In the future I plan to use marbles for more "puzzle piece" shaped reg keys. This should not only align the mold halves, but discourage them from shifting and separating as well.


Despite the block mold shape in the image above, I didn't want to buy anything solid to make the walls out of and instead went with fiberglass mothermolds over Rebound 25 silicone rubber. I prefer Plastipaste for the ease of use, but I thought it would be too expensive and heavy for this gun. This was my first experience with fiberglass. I found that 10 mil cloth is too stiff for any contours. The 6 mil seemed alright. I also learned a lot about how to better shape the molds - I thought undercuts and weird angles on the keys would help keep the mother mold in a very specific position, but it turns out that just makes it really annoying to stick the mold back in it.


I was pleasantly surprised that this all-in-one accessory mold worked so well.


Unwrapping these presents is either extremely rewarding and relieving, or incredibly aggravating. I didn't think to photo the aggravating ones, but I did end up selling some of them. The big pieces are rotocast with Smoothcast 300, and the smaller pieces are just, um, regular old stationary cast.


After many failed casts, it was somewhat therapeutic to restore the meticulously crafted detail of the master. This is my entire dusty/hazmat workspace, so in most cases I can't work on different stages simultaneously.


Is there an easier way to mask a bunch of details? The only other thing I could think of was Plastidip, but that seemed much harder to clean up.


I used two layers of the vaseline technique for the extremely worn paint job.


Fast forward a little (characteristic of last-minute-panic work), and here is the completed gun. Steps I didn't photograph include simple wiring for the ammo display, brown and black acrylic washes, leather cord and pouches sewn by my girlfriend (we both learned how to use my sewing machine for those), and remaking each scope from scratch because of an ill-conceived mold.


The ammo display is a pre-wired white LED behind clear acrylic, an SPST switch, and a 9V battery. The display graphics are vinyl decals printed at Kinko's. The switch protrudes up from the battery compartment, beneath the scope. The charging handle is affixed with a a snippet of clothes hangar rod and is a simple fix if it were to be broken off.


The magazine has a 2" x 3/4" storage compartment (actually I just wanted to pour less resin). The dovetail holds the magazine in place on its own, but the magnet ensures it stays put.


The front end and receiver interlock around a wooden dowel, secured by post fasteners. This is also how the battery compartment is accessed.


The trigger was a huge gamble because I didn't verify that my design would actually work until I had finished every other step. This is only because I didn't have the guts to experiment by drilling holes in the master. Components are a 1/8" steel rod with washers on each side and a 5/16" OD spring. Luckily it worked, although I wish I had made the recessed area larger so that I could hide the spring up there. An unintended side effect of this design is that the spring makes a satisfying clicking noise when it compresses into the hole it rests in.


That's it! Here are the three I could get ready in time for Comic Con Honolulu. This was my first con as an artist, and it was a lot of fun even though I only sold a couple of second rate raw casts!


Beach photoshoot and con album:

Despite a lot of headaches in the casting stage, I'm very happy with the finished product. Thanks for checking it out!

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B Wo

Well-Known Member
This absolutely looks like it would boost movement speed and fire on a hair trigger. Well done.


Well-Known Member
While Curtis was away for a brony convention, I snuck into his living room and grabbed this awesome thing!









I decided I'd start with the magazine. I wanted to give it more dimension, so I started hacking with the scroll saw.


I had to blend the new "chin" of the magazine to fit the geometry, as well as sand and styrene the front face.


I improved the accuracy on the waffle patter and straightened some of the other lines with an exacto. Then It got its primer bath and sanding.


Next up was the panel around the rear grip. The original shape was fine, but I wanted it skinnier. Original panel was 1/8th of an inch, I got it down to about 1/32. This doesn't seem like much, but because the gun was based on a P90, The lower half of the gun was a tad more thick than the in game model. I probably would have done the same though, had I built it from scratch. So I narrowed the bottom grip about 1/4" when all said and done. It was a noticeable difference, especially in the hand.


I also re-did the circular pin details in/around the grip. They were originally small metal dowel sections. I decided to go with some rounded styrene dowel ends in a slight recess. It would be friendlier to molding, as well as take ink/washes a little better. I got carried away and eventually re-did about 90% of these all over the gun.


While I was in the neighborhood, I rounded some hard edges (technically some of these are supposed to be chamfed, as well as the inside of the grip but because the grip was rounded from the P90 donor, I rounded these too.) as well as did some more blending of the P90 donor into the surrounding MDF.


I wanted to re-do the lines under the bolt area. They were a little deep for my taste and I didn't want them pulling silicone. I'd also be doing them in styrene, so it was easier to make them straight and accurate. (For you airsoft fanatics, yes I did eventually hide that hop-up door.)



This is how I bridge stuff in a recess. I make perfectly straight bits of styrene, barely glue them to the part being suspended, then "bridge" it in the gap and glue the edges.


I did the same thing in the back where some of the detail was a little soft.




I pried off the old buttplate and decided to re-do it in the name of accuracy. Also, to give the lower half a slimmer profile.


I traced the original and decided how much I wanted to cut down.


Simple layering and a ramp.



the original socket head screws were,metal and were protruding a little too much for my tastes, so I used resin copies and thinned them down. They also glue better.


Old and new!


It didn't end there though. I rounded out the top nub that sits in front of the buttplate before gluing it.


It got its panel lining too. Cutting uniformly into sintra is difficult.


Modifications so far. I'll continue these updates later. Thanks, Starside Armory!

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Well-Known Member
Tough crowd.

Onward to the front and top portions of the rifle.


I layered them to the next sheet, then shaped the overall pieces. A little more accuracy in detail and dimension. The old ones were just a tad too wide for my taste. I also recycled the old sight mounts (not pictured) shaved them down a little, and flipped them 180 degrees.


on the upper barrel assembly, I removed the old front shroud. That way I could round out the edge.


Then I added some panel lines.


I wanted to merge the upper and lower portions of the front end for simplicity and strength. That means I had to block off any undercuts and recesses. The bottom of the uppoer barrel got walled off.



This is how the upper barrel attaches to the receiver. Good for transporting a one off prop, but not for molding! I hacked it off and the corresponding receiver keys.



I preserved some old details and added some new ones at the new intersection.


The old method used real bolts to hold the upper barrel in place. Because that won't be needed anymore, I made some cool cosmetic screw caps in place of them. As well as some styrene cut seats.



I glued the caps on, and the upper barrel to the lower barrel.


I re-made a styrene greeble that sits in the ear of the lower barrel.



The upper detail channel was a little soft, so I made some styrene inserts to sharpen it up. Before:




New inserts below. These steps happened on both sides of course. Next up, the new shroud! I beefed up the thickness just a hair to make it easier to cast.


I rounded the corners and matched the inside corners.


I made little details that line up when the shroud is installed.


I gave everything a good prime and sand. The lower barrel assembly already looked great, and aside from the greebles I didn't change anything!


I revisited the trigger. Simple styrene/MDF layering. The old one was cool because It could be potentially made to swivel, but I went for accuracy.


Next: scope, molding, casting, paint!


New Member
Very impressive.

Been debating doing something similar myself. I've got half a mind to attempt the Dagonsbane variant of Bad Juju


Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone.

Onto the scope! I made some evenly spaced styrene details and strips to wrap around the Flared section on PVC piping on the old scope.



Then, I took off the old ring mount. This side of the scope was a little short, so I extended it with a small PVC section.


The front and back halves of the scope get cast separately. This MDF greeble got shaped a bit later on and will be used to align the front and rear halves of the scope.


I drafted out the body of the scope mount and got to cutting.



The scope knobs were carefully layered and cut MDF/styrene.


I salvaged the old eye shade from the old scope, and scribed in some lines. Some small details added, and some lenses which were lightly rounded MDF circles. Sometimes I use sections of ping pong balls for this, but this scope was a hair too large for that.


The scope mount was made from a perfectly shaped weaver mount. The seat matched the scope housing, and the Sintra got rounded and some inset screw head details later on.


Putting it all together gets me something like this:


On to molding! I didn't take a lot of pictures, but the molds came out well. The front was first. I had to plug up the undercuts on the bottom while still carefully making sure it would fit.




I blocked the holes in the carrying handle with some really thin styrene. That way they could be easily punched out later as casts, and I could still get away with a 2 part mold instead of 3.


First receiver pull!


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Starside Armory

New Member
Superb work as always. It's highly informative to see the improvements a more experienced crafter makes on your own build, especially the carrying handle approach!
This came out INSANE! Makes me really want to dive back into my Warlock build. What have you found works best to adhere styrene to stuff like other plastics or MDF? I've worked with it a fair amount but I still haven't nailed down a product that works consistently for that.


Well-Known Member
Thank you thank you! I use wood glue for laminating large parts before cutting them. For everything else, I use superglue. Lots of superglue. I scuff the styrene with 220 before I glue it. The MDF i cover in super glue first, and smear it around with an extra styrene scrap. Then when it dries, I sand it with 220. Then its all sealed and ready to be super glued to whatever.
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