Darkside501st's Iron Man Mk VII pepakura files - Password in First Post

I'm going to use a reed switch in the chin and a magnet in the chest so I'll just have to nod my head to activate the opening and closing of the faceplate. The faceplate opens, the LEDs turn off. The faceplate closes and the LEDs turn on with the flickering.


For the video I used the "insert video" function ( [*video] [*/video] tags).

Ok, I will try the video thing.

I would look into a Hall Effect Sensor vs the reed switch. Since you are already using code it will fit right in. Less chance of failure since it is an electronic operated switch vs mechanical and it is not as fragile as the reed switch that comes in a glass tube.

I know the feeling man. Wish you the best


Thanks, I appreciate it.
 
Ok, I will try the video thing.

I would look into a Hall Effect Sensor vs the reed switch. Since you are already using code it will fit right in. Less chance of failure since it is an electronic operated switch vs mechanical and it is not as fragile as the reed switch that comes in a glass tube.

I followed your advice. Seems simple to put together. A small PCB with the resistor, the sensor and through hole pads for VCC, GND and signal. I was a bit afraid of the 3 pins system but it's quite simple.

Thanks Darkside and stay strong, problems can't stay forever! My life is also taking an unexpected path, I recently learned my first born...are twins. I guess I won't have much time in spring 2014. I wish you the best dude, take the time you need, there's more important things than prop making in life! And you have so many projects running simultaneously! Take time for you and your family!
 
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Re: Darkside501st's Iron Man Mk VII pepakura files

Hello,darkside501st.I am new member and i'd like to thank you for the hand files.I've already download some files from tamasoft gallery,and start building my suit,but your handfiles are much better.thanks for sharing you are the best.
 
I followed your advice. Seems simple to put together. A small PCB with the resistor, the sensor and through hole pads for VCC, GND and signal. I was a bit afraid of the 3 pins system but it's quite simple.

Thanks Darkside and stay strong, problems can't stay forever! My life is also taking an unexpected path, I recently learned my first born...are twins. I guess I won't have much time in spring 2014. I wish you the best dude, take the time you need, there's more important things than prop making in life! And you have so many projects running simultaneously! Take time for you and your family!

I agree with DevilFlash. I recently learned that my grandpa is in the hospital and the what really sucks is that I can't even visit him so yeah, take all the time you need. we will still be here ;)

and DevilFlash... congrats on the twins
 
I followed your advice. Seems simple to put together. A small PCB with the resistor, the sensor and through hole pads for VCC, GND and signal. I was a bit afraid of the 3 pins system but it's quite simple.

Thanks Darkside and stay strong, problems can't stay forever! My life is also taking an unexpected path, I recently learned my first born...are twins. I guess I won't have much time in spring 2014. I wish you the best dude, take the time you need, there's more important things than prop making in life! And you have so many projects running simultaneously! Take time for you and your family!

I agree with DevilFlash. I recently learned that my grandpa is in the hospital and the what really sucks is that I can't even visit him so yeah, take all the time you need. we will still be here ;)

and DevilFlash... congrats on the twins

Yes, congradulations on your twins! OMG, I bet you are stressing out a bid though. Good luck to you as well.

Also, thanks to both of you. I do have to try and take care of my issues first and foremost... I also have to keep up with the paid orders I have received. Free projects like this tends to take back seat unfortunately.. I am also eager to finish this suit and start building it, lol. I have some good long months ahead of me with dealing with these issues. Nobody wants to see their life take an unexpected turn for the worst but that is a part of life in most cases. I know I am not the only one that is going through this kind of thing or that has been through it already. I wouldn't wish it on anyone, friend or foe. Thanks for your support.
 
I gave up with metal and just went with card - next step is persuading my other half that I'm allowed to fibreglass it in the flat...

2013-09-28 22.01.45.jpg
 
Yes, congradulations on your twins! OMG, I bet you are stressing out a bid though. Good luck to you as well.

and DevilFlash... congrats on the twins

Thanks both of you...yeah, I'm half excited half scared, I have to admit.

One question Dark: which kind of Hall Effect Sensor would you use? SMD or standard through hole sensors? I like the idea of a very small/flat PCB with the smd sensor in the chin of the helmet.

And for your obligations to the persons who paid you for one of your project, from my point of view, I'm not afraid, I know you'll fulfill my expectations even if I have to wait a bit longer for it! (well, wouldn't be sad if I can have the repulsors before november 3rd...but hey, deal with your personal issues, that's the most important!).
 
I tried the tester .97 and it seemed to fit ok, but when i pepped the .97 'proper' it pressed really hard against my ears, so I guess I should go 1 higher.
Chris

Same problem here. Howewer I'll finish this for practice.
I've almost done a first coat of resin.

Just a question: How you make this part stay together until you've coated properly?

2013-09-30 11.37.42.jpg
 
I tried the tester .97 and it seemed to fit ok, but when i pepped the .97 'proper' it pressed really hard against my ears, so I guess I should go 1 higher.

I haven't built the tester helmet myself but I would imagine the reason for the size difference is because you need to cut holes for your ears

Same problem here. Howewer I'll finish this for practice.
I've almost done a first coat of resin.

Just a question: How you make this part stay together until you've coated properly?

View attachment 237703

what I did to make them stay together was, I spot glued them with a hot glue gun
 
Thanks both of you...yeah, I'm half excited half scared, I have to admit.

One question Dark: which kind of Hall Effect Sensor would you use? SMD or standard through hole sensors? I like the idea of a very small/flat PCB with the smd sensor in the chin of the helmet.

And for your obligations to the persons who paid you for one of your project, from my point of view, I'm not afraid, I know you'll fulfill my expectations even if I have to wait a bit longer for it! (well, wouldn't be sad if I can have the repulsors before november 3rd...but hey, deal with your personal issues, that's the most important!).

Yeah, in your case an SMD would work nicely. Try to get an omi-directional and bi-polar sensor so that you don't have to worry as much about how the magnet is places and which side the sensor is facing.

Thanks for the support again. I will get all the orders out. It is important for me to maintain a good reputation and live up to it.

Same problem here. Howewer I'll finish this for practice.
I've almost done a first coat of resin.

Just a question: How you make this part stay together until you've coated properly?

View attachment 237703

what I did to make them stay together was, I spot glued them with a hot glue gun

I have seen some people like using the mini binder clips.

- - - Updated - - -

I would also like to thank cmeister2 for being a big supporter of my work and for your contributions to this project. Your name has been added to the VIP list and you will get 2 months early access to the files when they are done.
 
Hi,
How tight should the helmet be against my ears? Just fitting the back helmet on, the flat ear side are pressing against my ears (even before glassing), and the side push out slightly. I imagine that when I glass it and its rigid, that I won't be able to squeeze in.

Is there any suggestions on how tight it should be at the paper stage?

I'm trying to avoid the bobble head problem :)

Thanks again for all your great advice.
 
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I gave up with metal and just went with card - next step is persuading my other half that I'm allowed to fibreglass it in the flat...

View attachment 237128

I wouldn't say don't use fibreglass in your flat, as although it'll make a mess, that's not the nasty bit. Using polyester resin in a confined space is the problem. I would suggest using epoxy resin instead if space and air flow are an issue as epoxy cures without releasing the toxic fumes that polyester resin does (it might smell though). Beware of when epoxy cures though as a lot of heat is created from the chemical curing process which could warp the piece. :)
 
Hi,
How tight should the helmet be against my ears? Just fitting the back helmet on, the flat ear side are pressing against my ears (even before glassing), and the side push out slightly. I imagine that when I glass it and its rigid, that I won't be able to squeeze in.

Is there any suggestions on how tight it should be at the paper stage?

I'm trying to avoid the bobble head problem :)

Thanks again for all your great advice.

I had the same problem, and I'm pepping a bigger helmet... Tell me if you find simply solutions

hey guys... try cutting two holes in the main helmet where the ears go, so thst thay match up with the holes on the inside of the ear pieces. that will give you space for your ears and a little more then a centimeter on etch side once you glue the ear pieces on to the main helmet.
That is also why the tester helmet seems bigger then the pep helmet of the same size


darkside: maybe you could color in the arias in question on the pep helmet, like you did for the repolser hole in the hand ?
 
I wouldn't say don't use fibreglass in your flat, as although it'll make a mess, that's not the nasty bit. Using polyester resin in a confined space is the problem. I would suggest using epoxy resin instead if space and air flow are an issue as epoxy cures without releasing the toxic fumes that polyester resin does (it might smell though). Beware of when epoxy cures though as a lot of heat is created from the chemical curing process which could warp the piece. :)
I've already bought some General Purpose resin from cfsnet, unfortunately. I did pick up a 3M Vapour Respirator (4251) - but I guess it's still not a good idea to do it in a place without good ventilation?
 
I've already bought some General Purpose resin from cfsnet, unfortunately. I did pick up a 3M Vapour Respirator (4251) - but I guess it's still not a good idea to do it in a place without good ventilation?

you are correct, it is never a good idea to work with these type of materials with little to no ventilation :D
 
you are correct, it is never a good idea to work with these type of materials with little to no ventilation :D

Also, you won't be able to sand inside home, the dust frim the fiberglass is very dangerous...

I'm with the mobile phone and I can't put you the link, but there is a thread of materials that are safe to use at home. I would suggest to take a look at it :)
 
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