Dark Knight Rises - Bane Mask

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greatballs

New Member
Hi, just joined up.Been lurking on this forum for to long. I have been working on parts of the Bane costume for some time now.Should be ready to show some pics soon.
It has now become a bit of a passion to get things accurate. Spend the whole of the prologue trying to check for any details i may have missed.
Great mask by the way.But have to say it is to green.When i saw it i thought fantastic job,cant wait to see it when the paint work is finished.
 

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True. It is pretty green, I know that - but it is still a lot darker than the shade you have painted. Here's a pretty clear photo in daylight that shows his mask compared to his green vest.

bane-batman-rehearse-dark-knight-rises2.jpg

Yup, green, olive drape green, very military looking green, but def not black.
 

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What are you using to paint the mask since it is urethane?
-Todd

We acetone the urethane first, then mix our acrylics to the correct shades, paint several coats, then a flexible sealer. Ive taken the mask and twisted and bend it to hell and the paint does not peel, though a strong sharp fingernail can cut through the sealer and paint, so keep your wive's cat claws away from it.
 

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samhain2012

New Member
hello again I have another question for you, I noticed in your website that in one of your Bane mask sculpture pics that you cast your mask in those silicone molds my question is can you put latex in one of those.
 
hello again I have another question for you, I noticed in your website that in one of your Bane mask sculpture pics that you cast your mask in those silicone molds my question is can you put latex in one of those.

Great question. Currently our molds are rebound 25 silicone with a free form support shell. When casting in latex, you should always use a plaster mold instead since the plaster will naturally draw out the water from the latex during the curing process, silicone and urethane molds won't allow this to happen. Silicone also can be inhibited by latex so you could ruin your hard work. As a general rule keep the latex as far away from your silicones as you can. Latex $50 a gallon, silicone $200 a gallon....easy math right?
 

Finhead

Sr Member
Actually that is wrong it's the other way around. You can run latex in a silicone mold without inhibition once the silicone is cured. It would just be painfully slow just like running latex in a fiberglass mold, you would have to build up at least 12-14 coats and let dry between coats. It takes 3-4 days to get a thick enough casting in this manner.

Great question. Currently our molds are rebound 25 silicone with a free form support shell. When casting in latex, you should always use a plaster mold instead since the plaster will naturally draw out the water from the latex during the curing process, silicone and urethane molds won't allow this to happen. Silicone also can be inhibited by latex so you could ruin your hard work. As a general rule keep the latex as far away from your silicones as you can. Latex $50 a gallon, silicone $200 a gallon....easy math right?
 

Darth Pinhead

Active Member
Actually that is wrong it's the other way around. You can run latex in a silicone mold without inhibition once the silicone is cured. It would just be painfully slow just like running latex in a fiberglass mold, you would have to build up at least 12-14 coats and let dry between coats. It takes 3-4 days to get a thick enough casting in this manner.

The trick with casting latex in silicone molds is to use a heater fan and hot air gun between brushed in layers (I stipple with sponges for even coats). Scott Marshall and I both use Rebound 25 molds for our latex Predator parts (Scott does heads and full suits, whereas I do hands). It still does take a while; six layers brushed into each half of my hand mold, a butter coat on the edges, sealed, one last slush layer, and then it's two hours with a heater fan blowing in through the wrist. Takes me about six hours total. Now mind you, brushed layers are unber-thin skins, whereas the slushed layer is much thicker. Pretty sure Scott's Predator heads take a solid 24 hours, but I'd have to double-check. It's actually easier with the bigger pieces because you can get a lot better air flow.

Now, with that, once you run latex in a silicone mold, you have to seriously clean it out in order to run silicone in it (Couldn't tell you about urethane). The latex residue will inhibit future silicone casts from curing. There's a product you can use, but the name is escaping me...
 

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