Costuming Full Time

Shadow Duchess

Well-Known Member
I know a number of folks realize how much work goes into the production of a costume but, as someone who does this full time I sometimes feel obligated to make people realize how much is really involved in a bigger scale production of trying to produce many costumes at a time.
One thing is a constant in this and any other industry mistakes happen and often they aren't due to 'you'.

Let me give you some basics.

Doing what we do entails custom pattern drafting, which changes radically from person to person so, one template is almost never going to work for more than one costume so, many hours of drafting go into creating the foundation from which a costume is based upon.
Purchasing fabrics, many people don't have the room or resources to stock all fabrics necessary and there is the fact that you can quickly run out. Here's where many people don't understand a lot of what happens. Joann and Hancock's the majority of the time do not have the fabrics that are needed for very specific pieces. Most costumers as you well know want the penultimate costume so people like ourselves devote a great deal of time, energy, and money into finding the proper suppliers for the correct fabrics and most of them are by the internet. So, you end up being at the mercy of fabric samples or sometimes none at all only to find that you were a. shipped a fabric that doesn't resemble the description given b. eat the cost and continue on or try to dye it the proper shade if possible and c. wait on their mercy to have them ship it which may not be right away no matter what you tell them. Often we've run across suppliers that are out of the fabric or appropriate color and need to reorder it from the mill it originally came from and that takes even longer, or we need to move on and find an alternate.

How many hours are in a day again?

Most of us work hard to make your requests turn out the way you desire and it takes time, as many of the wonderful people here already know.
So, when you finally have all the items you need, pattern, fabric ahhh wait. The details. Buttons, latches, specific pins, or sometimes ones that have to be crafted and often sculpted by the costumer themselves which takes a lot of time, and more money for crafting, and molding materials and don't forget that sometimes the mold can end up being a problem so it has to be redone again. These are important as well, again very specific costumes need important details to make them recognizable so more work goes into ensuring it's right.

Add to this the amount of research that needs to go into this work, I'm sure most of you know how long it takes to get the right images either from surfing the net, purchasing books or magazines, or sitting in front of the computer getting the right screen caps to grab the images.

Machines. Machines are very necessary for this work, computers for a great deal of it, sewing machines which can break down in the middle of projects (been there and lost the fabric due to malfunctions), saws, files, air brushes, leather working tools, special sewing machine feet, lathes, and incredible amounts of hand tools all that have the potential to fail at any given time. Like many folks most of us don't have a vast disposable income to look after the regular every day things like car problems, home problems, to drop everything to purchase a whole new machine or part this is a normal part of life but we try to do everything to get it right.

I love what we do but most times there aren't enough hours in the day to do everything I want and be able to 'live' or go to conventions or see my friends on a regular basis as we are busy trying to satisfy everyone and try to keep everything on track which brings us down to things that happen to everyone like getting sick.
It's hard to work a job that requires your dedicated attention and a very steady hand when you're incapable of sitting up or stop hacking long enough to see what in fact you're doing. A straight line can end up being a wonderful Rorshach type blotch, not to mention that we personally do a great deal of hand sewing to finish a costume properly which most people don't realize.

Email and communication, a very important thing for customers as we well know but I don't sit at my computer 24/7 to ensure every mail is answered right away however, I try to be on the ball but when you are trying to get the work done, you need to concentrate on one thing at a time. Many companies will not email you regularly or give you personal touches that many people tend to want but, we always try to do everything we can to communicate when a customer has questions or concerns I can say it's hard to take long periods out of the day to write to everyone personally and tell them status reports on exactly where you are. One email sure, but when you have many customers that is a very large chunk of time.
I read on the board today where one very talented costumer was saying that he was working on his costume and it's been a year now, multiply that by a very large volume of customers.

It's a difficult business and it really takes a lot out of you but it's rewarding as well.
What I'm trying to convey to everyone here and I'm sure most of you know this but, I wanted to write this out as it's been fermenting in my mind is that the people that make your costumes, whether they are professional's, friends, or family put a great deal into what they do and they are only a small part of the bigger picture that makes up the work.

Sometimes we screw up, sometimes suppliers screw up or take their time, sometimes delivery services screw up and on rare occassions things flow but quite often the common mantra of 'we're only human' has to be remembered and sometimes we need to be reminded that these are flesh and blood people that are working hard to make you happy creating a costume.

Hopefully I'm not stepping on any toes here putting this here but it is about costumes :D
 
Patience is definitely a costumer's habit to learn. :)

After your great post, I think we should all give you a big appreciation day. To say thank you for ALL the crazy work you go through. I know that the costume that I asked for (BSG uniform) drove you nuts, but you all were the nicest people to work with, and it turned out perfectly.

I guess non-sewers sometimes just don't understand all the construction a costume can go thru. And all the hairpulling, screaming, tears and the smoke coming out of the sewing machine :p

Let's just give our seampersons a big thank you and let them catch their breath.

Jen
 
:)
I think patience is necessary in all aspects of the costuming and prop making art for both the workers and the recipients and most people are absolutely incredible and I completely understand where customers come from but, I just wanted people to realize how much really does go on when constructing a costume.

Bah :$ I don't need an appreciation day but I guess I wanted people to know that those other individuals out there who dedicate themselves to sculpting, leatherworking, jewellery making, costuming, forging metalwork and a great number of other areas of this business really love what they do and truly do put their heart and soul into their work so that their customers are truly happy.
I really loved putting it together though but, again precise colors, fabrics, and the details on something like that costume we made you which is common for a collector and costumer like yourself but, we love doing it.
I'm glad that your experience with us was great, I know that we are far from perfect but we honestly work like dogs to make it work out.

Hahahahaha, hey the machine didn't quite smoke but it was close and I lost a few yards of very expensive silk for a costume when my old machine decided it didn't want to be in my service any longer :D

Ahhh well, thank you. I have to say we've been lucky in having some extremely exceptional clients and I can't thank you enough for appreciating our work, as we appreciate you.




<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jadedskies @ Dec 11 2006, 09:43 PM) [snapback]1375931[/snapback]</div>
Patience is definitely a costumer's habit to learn. :)

After your great post, I think we should all give you a big appreciation day. To say thank you for ALL the crazy work you go through. I know that the costume that I asked for (BSG uniform) drove you nuts, but you all were the nicest people to work with, and it turned out perfectly.

I guess non-sewers sometimes just don't understand all the construction a costume can go thru. And all the hairpulling, screaming, tears and the smoke coming out of the sewing machine :p

Let's just give our seampersons a big thank you and let them catch their breath.

Jen
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Here, here.

I need to print this up and show it to our department head who was upset that the costume shop didn't get costumes ready on a day and a half notice for a photoshoot for a local freebie rag. Sometimes it sucks. Butwe still get to make cool stuff.
 
what's the saying? (paraphrased)....perfect, cheap or on short notice......you can't have all 3...

nice write-up. most don't realize what it takes to put things together and with our disposable consumer mentality, appreciation for craftsmanship is lost.
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Darth Mule @ Dec 13 2006, 03:55 PM) [snapback]1377169[/snapback]</div>
Here, here.

I need to print this up and show it to our department head who was upset that the costume shop didn't get costumes ready on a day and a half notice for a photoshoot for a local freebie rag. Sometimes it sucks. Butwe still get to make cool stuff.
[/b]


Please do.
That's an unreasonable request by any stretch..one costume in a day and half depending upon the work is tough enough but, many?
Sometimes they just don't understand *shakes head*
We do indeed get to make cool stuff and that's what makes every bit of this all worth while, thank you so much for responding :D


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(BatDemon @ Dec 13 2006, 04:55 PM) [snapback]1377202[/snapback]</div>
what's the saying? (paraphrased)....perfect, cheap or on short notice......you can't have all 3...

nice write-up. most don't realize what it takes to put things together and with our disposable consumer mentality, appreciation for craftsmanship is lost.
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Haha, that's absolutely correct. All three just don't happen.

Thank you very much. I was worried I was long winded and might get in trouble but I felt considering the amount of people on here who would understand this I felt it necessary to share. It's nice to realize that people who take great pride in their craft can still be appreciated and needed.
:)
 
Nice post. I also feel part of the angst with this sort of business is that our consumer society has taught us the concept of "instant gratification". As purchasers we often see things we want in catalog, whether it be costume-related or not, we order with our credit card, and the item arrives from a warehouse where it has already been stocked, packaged, ready for shipment.

When creating these props or costumes it is important to remember the level of involvement required. Essentially taking an abstract idea, and making something tangible from nothing. I'm not trying to overly emphasize to the consumer, it's equally important that we "creators" properly estimate the involvement required as well, to attempt to give our customers a reasonable guess-timate as to when to expect thier goods. However, not a lot of people can appreciate the level of effort required to create these types of items, unless of course they attempted it themselves.

In my shop I see increasing numbers of producers whose expectations are more and more unrealistic. I am amazed by the constant bombardment of short deadlines. I sometimes wonder, does some studio "bright-spark" come up with an idea on Friday at 11:00 a.m. and expect to have a completed product in-hand on Monday at 8:00 a.m. (I'm NOT joking here folks, it get's that ridiculous). Part of the problem is that there always seems to be someone out there to tell them "yes, it can be done". Sure it can be done . But as mentioned above, "it ain't gonna be cheap".

Sorry, I see I'm ranting a little too much here. The only way I've found to deal with these sorts of issues is to try to be fair, be honest, be insightful, and to give a realistic estimate to my customers. It doesn't always work, but I've been blessed with understanding customers, whom on the rare occasion of a delay, beleive in me, have confidence in me, and understand that they may have to wait a bit longer, but they'll have a quality product.

Rant over,
Scott

P.S.: What do you Shadowdale folks think about them closing JoAnne's Fabric's in Newburgh? Do you ever use them? I heard they're closing a majority of JoAnnes on the East coast, dunno how true that is.
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hangar18Studios @ Dec 13 2006, 06:21 PM) [snapback]1377264[/snapback]</div>
Nice post. I also feel part of the angst with this sort of business is that our consumer society has taught us the concept of "instant gratification". As purchasers we often see things we want in catalog, whether it be costume-related or not, we order with our credit card, and the item arrives from a warehouse where it has already been stocked, packaged, ready for shipment.

When creating these props or costumes it is important to remember the level of involvement required. Essentially taking an abstract idea, and making something tangible from nothing. I'm not trying to overly emphasize to the consumer, it's equally important that we "creators" properly estimate the involvement required as well, to attempt to give our customers a reasonable guess-timate as to when to expect thier goods. However, not a lot of people can appreciate the level of effort required to create these types of items, unless of course they attempted it themselves.

In my shop I see increasing numbers of producers whose expectations are more and more unrealistic. I am amazed by the constant bombardment of short deadlines. I sometimes wonder, does some studio "bright-spark" come up with an idea on Friday at 11:00 a.m. and expect to have a completed product in-hand on Monday at 8:00 a.m. (I'm NOT joking here folks, it get's that ridiculous). Part of the problem is that there always seems to be someone out there to tell them "yes, it can be done". Sure it can be done . But as mentioned above, "it ain't gonna be cheap".

Sorry, I see I'm ranting a little too much here. The only way I've found to deal with these sorts of issues is to try to be fair, be honest, be insightful, and to give a realistic estimate to my customers. It doesn't always work, but I've been blessed with understanding customers, whom on the rare occasion of a delay, beleive in me, have confidence in me, and understand that they may have to wait a bit longer, but they'll have a quality product.

Rant over,
Scott

P.S.: What do you Shadowdale folks think about them closing JoAnne's Fabric's in Newburgh? Do you ever use them? I heard they're closing a majority of JoAnnes on the East coast, dunno how true that is.
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Rant as much as you want. As creators we do have to be fair and honest with our customers and give them a high quality product but, the flip side is that it has to be realized 'now, now, now' doesn't work in our industry.
Patience is a necessity especially if you don't run a big shop with a lot of extra hands and if you want items that reflect the quality you feel your customers deserve.
All too often we have requests for creating something from nothing. Create the patten from hundreds of photos drafting and redrafting for proper fit and to match the original and this works for props or costumes. Without the original in hand, folks like us work very hard to recreate the original with nothing in our hands but our skill, and imagination.
Thankfully we have also been very lucky with some amazing customers and I can't thank them enough for their patronage and patience and hope that we can make all of our customers equally happy.
I guess one of my main quirks here was patience seems to be very important when it relates to this industry on both sides.

It's a bit frustrating that the closer Joann's is closing for the few purchases we make there it means we'll have to travel at least 30 miles to see if the 'local' fabric store has anything and Walmart which is a almost never situation but sometimes has interfacing and liner is closing their fabric section, and I know for a lot of regular crafters they've found good items there in the past but they are no longer going to have bolt fabric available apparently.
The only problem living this far away from city life is having available fabric suppliers that you can just walk into and see the merchandise and handle it first hand which I tend to prefer.
 
Definately a good post. Thanks for sharing, it's definately a good reminder to everyone about how much work goes into the creation of costumes. Patience is definately a requirement which it comes to creating something, and it's something that is so much lacking in our society today.

I am in awe of the work you guys do, and it would be my dream to one day be able to do costuming and fashion (both design and creation) full time. It's definately a very stressful occupation, but so rewarding. It's the time and effort that goes into all the details that really shows.

I'm such a perfectionist (I think it's a requirement when it comes to costuming :p), so I always like to ensure I have the details correct - which involves a lot of research into the costume. I also like to make sure that my sewing is good quality and I try to be very neat. The best example for that is the fully lined jedi robe I made, which required all the seams (from joining the lining and outer fabric) to be ironed out flat, a process which took several hours. I then spent a couple of days pinning and re-pinning the hem to get it to not only sit straight, but sit flat. I swear that sent me crazy. It's still not completely straight *pulls hair out* The last thing to do was to hand stitch the entire hem. I don't know how many hours that took, but it went everywhere with me for a couple of weeks - on the bus to uni, in lectures, during breaks, watching tv, travelling interstate for a convention. But gosh darn I'm proud of the robe..

I'd really like to start making things to sell, as a way to supplement my meagre student income, and help me continue to make costumes (and armour.). I'm probably going to start with non costumes (just simple skirts and tops), but I've had a few friends ask about making jedi robes and tunics and other such items for them, it's something Iw ouldn't mind doing. So any advice and tips are always appreciated..
 
Very nice post Shadow Duchess. I know exactly what you're saying, I have a similar thing in my job.......

" Digital photo restoration takes that long? and you charge that much? I know you just push a button and it's done. You're just trying to rip me off..." "Oh and by the way, I wanted it in half an hour, SOoooo I'll take my business elsewhere THANK - YOU - VERY - MUCH..." :confused

A similar thing happens with video work. :unsure

I do feel your pain and frustration :)

Cheers,

Kraig
 
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