Awesome, yeah, that was for you. That makes sense. I am working on my 1/24 Scale X-Wing so I will be super interested in following your build!
**COMPLETED** Y-Wing 1/48 resin model
- Thread starter StevenBills
- Start date
Awesome, yeah, that was for you. That makes sense. I am working on my 1/24 Scale X-Wing so I will be super interested in following your build!
Dang rooker2k you've got me thinking that I should light mine afterall. Yours looks amazing!
If I DO light it, I'd want it to all be self-contained, as I'm going to be using this model for photography purposes. Maybe a little coin-cell battery that I could have access to via the back plate that would be held on by magnets? I dunno. Anybody have any thoughts?
SB
If I DO light it, I'd want it to all be self-contained, as I'm going to be using this model for photography purposes. Maybe a little coin-cell battery that I could have access to via the back plate that would be held on by magnets? I dunno. Anybody have any thoughts?
SB
StevenBills
yes correct ... the backplate is good ... but you should adjust it a little bit. i have adjusted it so that you can use a 9v block battery and do not need a power cable (see photo)
yes correct ... the backplate is good ... but you should adjust it a little bit. i have adjusted it so that you can use a 9v block battery and do not need a power cable (see photo)
I always try to light my models with self-contained power source. I find it’s very rare that you can’t fit in a battery - lithium polymer batteries are so small these days that you can almost always find one that will fit in the ship. Plus, you can fit in a little circuit board that means you can plug it in and it will run from the mains, for when you have it sitting on a shelf, and when you unplug it it will run from the batteries. I am by no means an expert in the electronics field but if you want further info just let me know.
I’ve taken inspiration from Christopher Olsen (I think his name is Colsen On here) and his work is amaaaaazing. I just then replace the power source with a tiny lithium battery.
the good thing about lithium batteries is that you can have a removable panel (attached with magnets) that has a small USB port behind it. If you have a coin cell power source you’d need a much bigger hatch to replace the battery.
What is the square channel that runs the length of the fuselage? Is that for some sort of armature or something?
SB
the channel is for an aluminium bar for more stability, actually not necessary with this model anymore with my construction, i did it anyway. the bar doesn't go all the way to the back only up to the hole you see in the picture ... this is for the wings and there the whole thing stops
Okay cool. Because at the scale that I printed mine at, that square channel didn't survive 
Little update. I sliced the wings so that they were angled up at a 22° angle, and then removed the supports before I cured it. When I went to grab the parts, they looked like this:
No good! They warped like crazy. I wish this stuff wasn't so brittle once it was cured, because there is absolutely no give without them just snapping in half. So I had the thought, "The rooks that came with the printer printed just fine on the build plate, so why can't these parts just print on the build plate without supports as well?" So I re-sliced the parts, and they're on the printer now. I just have the left and right two halves left on this thing, and then all of the parts are printed!
I'm excited to be done with the printing phase (not to mention my wife hates the smell!), and on to the actual building itself! Stay tuned!
SB
Little update. I sliced the wings so that they were angled up at a 22° angle, and then removed the supports before I cured it. When I went to grab the parts, they looked like this:
No good! They warped like crazy. I wish this stuff wasn't so brittle once it was cured, because there is absolutely no give without them just snapping in half. So I had the thought, "The rooks that came with the printer printed just fine on the build plate, so why can't these parts just print on the build plate without supports as well?" So I re-sliced the parts, and they're on the printer now. I just have the left and right two halves left on this thing, and then all of the parts are printed!
I'm excited to be done with the printing phase (not to mention my wife hates the smell!), and on to the actual building itself! Stay tuned!
SB
StevenBills
your problem can be easy solved. print them as one part .. in this scale you dont need to stabilize them.
you also can fill the hole, booth will work fine.
your problem can be easy solved. print them as one part .. in this scale you dont need to stabilize them.
you also can fill the hole, booth will work fine.
Gah! why didn't I think of that. Well if these parts don't work out, I'll slap them together and print them as one piece. Thanks for the tip!
SB
StevenBills
no problem i will help you if you have further questions
have you already thought about using real t profile or do you take what is included?
no problem
i will help you if you have further questions have you already thought about using real t profile or do you take what is included?
I found some triangle styrene rods that fit, but I might go the t-track route. I like that look.
SB
SB
please show me what you found
I found these that fit the scale that I'm building in: 90845 (MRT-100 / pack of 5)
And it looks like the flat prints worked okay, but if I want to save myself a bit of work later, I might as well combine the upper and lower wing parts. Thanks for the suggestion, rooker2k. I added supports just because.
SB
tsenecal
Well-Known Member
StevenBills...
would any of these work? i assume you could buy the .123" x .123" size and sand it down to .100 x .100 if you really wanted/needed that specific size...
evergreenscalemodels.com
would any of these work? i assume you could buy the .123" x .123" size and sand it down to .100 x .100 if you really wanted/needed that specific size...
14" ( 35cm) OPAQUE WHITE POLYSTYRENE T SHAPE
Sold in Standard Packs, Economy and Bulk Packs.
evergreenscalemodels.com
StevenBills...
would any of these work? i assume you could buy the .123" x .123" size and sand it down to .100 x .100 if you really wanted/needed that specific size...
14" ( 35cm) OPAQUE WHITE POLYSTYRENE T SHAPE
Sold in Standard Packs, Economy and Bulk Packs.
Those would absolutely do the trick. Nice find!
SB
I've taken the plunge and bought the same model from CGTrader, so will start printing as soon as my current project is done! Also bought a B-wing at the same time so keep your eyes peeled for a 1/48 b wing!
StevenBills do you have a plan for decals?
For the T track I have a plan to use brass T section so that it’s rigid and sturdy. I’ve found it in 2mm and 3mm sizes so hopefully one of those will look ok.
Edit: I know this was covered at the beginning of the thread, but I thought I would contribute. I've compared the size of the R2 dome on the bandai 1/48 X-wing and this model, and it looks like it needs to be scaled up by 148% to match up. That would make the whole model 338.26mm (tip of the guns to the rear of the thrust vector thingies), which means that the Y-wing would be 129% the size of the bandai X-wing.
A Star Wars book I have seen gives the x-wing's length as 13.4m and the Y-wing as 16.24m - meaning the Y-wing is 21.19% bigger. So close, but not super close. If I make the Y-wing model 21% longer than the X-wing I get a length of 317.5mm (scaling the model up by 139%).
The R2 dome is going to be about 1mm too small then, I suppose. I could probably modify the slot that it sits in and print an R2 that matches the size of the X-wing one though. Not sure 1mm will be noticeable though.
StevenBills do you have a plan for decals?
For the T track I have a plan to use brass T section so that it’s rigid and sturdy. I’ve found it in 2mm and 3mm sizes so hopefully one of those will look ok.
Edit: I know this was covered at the beginning of the thread, but I thought I would contribute. I've compared the size of the R2 dome on the bandai 1/48 X-wing and this model, and it looks like it needs to be scaled up by 148% to match up. That would make the whole model 338.26mm (tip of the guns to the rear of the thrust vector thingies), which means that the Y-wing would be 129% the size of the bandai X-wing.
A Star Wars book I have seen gives the x-wing's length as 13.4m and the Y-wing as 16.24m - meaning the Y-wing is 21.19% bigger. So close, but not super close. If I make the Y-wing model 21% longer than the X-wing I get a length of 317.5mm (scaling the model up by 139%).
The R2 dome is going to be about 1mm too small then, I suppose. I could probably modify the slot that it sits in and print an R2 that matches the size of the X-wing one though. Not sure 1mm will be noticeable though.
Last edited:
StevenBills
i would prefer the 90084 (T-4 / pack of 7) from plastruct. the evergreen is not strong enough.
brass is to heavy (for me)
what happen with your print ? success ?
Jimw100
nice, me also working on the b wing in studio scale
i have most of the decals .. but only printed for 1:24
PM me to talk about this
what i wrote to steven in case of the t-profiles ..I would rather suggest you take the abs material from pastruct here.
i would prefer the 90084 (T-4 / pack of 7) from plastruct. the evergreen is not strong enough.
brass is to heavy (for me)
what happen with your print ? success ?
Jimw100
nice, me also working on the b wing in studio scale
i have most of the decals .. but only printed for 1:24
PM me to talk about this
what i wrote to steven in case of the t-profiles ..I would rather suggest you take the abs material from pastruct here.
I bought the Evergreen already. I'll try it out and if it isn't strong enough I'll go with the plastruct. And the print turned out beautifully! Thanks for the advice of combining the two parts together:
Now that got me thinking: what other parts can I combine together that are split up unnecessarily? The cockpit, perhaps...?
SB
StevenBills
that looks nice
you can combine following:
1. canopy + weapon base
2. Engine haust (without grill and nozzle)
3. Near full cockpit
4. Rear Engine (possible full - if you dont want just add the clamps)
5. Near full chassi
that looks nice
you can combine following:
1. canopy + weapon base
2. Engine haust (without grill and nozzle)
3. Near full cockpit
4. Rear Engine (possible full - if you dont want just add the clamps)
5. Near full chassi
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