propfactory
Active Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
Splendid!!
Splendid!!
-
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Limited Run CLOSED: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
- Thread starter dday
- Start date
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
I don't see the clip - will that be included?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't see the clip - will that be included?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dday
Sr Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
There is no clip included, that would have added another $120 or so.
A clip might be offered by Scott (Master Props) though.
In the mean time there are saber clips that you can print or Sni9er; just started up a new run of his metal machined functional saber clips as well.
There is no clip included, that would have added another $120 or so.
A clip might be offered by Scott (Master Props) though.
In the mean time there are saber clips that you can print or Sni9er; just started up a new run of his metal machined functional saber clips as well.
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newmagrathea
Sr Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
I'm not really into TFA, but this is some stellar work. Just beautiful.
I'm not really into TFA, but this is some stellar work. Just beautiful.
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
I'm so incredibly tempted right now to pick one of these up... :wacko
I'm so incredibly tempted right now to pick one of these up... :wacko
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
(Slow hand wave) You will buy a new saber.
Is it working?
(Slow hand wave) You will buy a new saber.
Is it working?
ender9492
Active Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
Pretty sure you won't find a more accurate, better built Kylo Ren saber than these...
Pretty sure you won't find a more accurate, better built Kylo Ren saber than these...
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
Oh I'm well aware. I've been providing 3d prints of the same files for a while now.
Oh I'm well aware. I've been providing 3d prints of the same files for a while now.
dday
Sr Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
Yes, Kevin is well aware
I'm just glad we were finally able to get it done. It's a lot of work to do it, but will be worth it for everyone.
Yes, Kevin is well aware
I'm just glad we were finally able to get it done. It's a lot of work to do it, but will be worth it for everyone.
ZahcStarKiller
Active Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
Hey Dday, I am planning my install and getting the electronics ready, can you provide me with the dimensions of the main body? I know the ID is MHS compatible (~1.24), but I am curious just how much space I have to work with lengthwise... I am also assuming the ID is consistent between the main body and the rear detail section? I looked around on the other thread Guabe started but couldn't find much about the V5.
Also, has anyone thought about using patinas and aluminum oxidizers instead of paint on these? I am thinking about grabbing some aluminum black and a few different colors of dye oxide patina (brown, red, blue) from Sculpt Nouveau and playing around with it on some scrap aluminum. It would be easy to dye/weather the end cap red, get a scorched and worn black body, get that brownish hue on the exposed metal parts, and pull off the heat staining on the emitter methinks. Having real patina and oxidation on the saber to me would just add to the whole effect. Perhaps I will be the guinea pig and report back to y'all on this...
Hey Dday, I am planning my install and getting the electronics ready, can you provide me with the dimensions of the main body? I know the ID is MHS compatible (~1.24), but I am curious just how much space I have to work with lengthwise... I am also assuming the ID is consistent between the main body and the rear detail section? I looked around on the other thread Guabe started but couldn't find much about the V5.
Also, has anyone thought about using patinas and aluminum oxidizers instead of paint on these? I am thinking about grabbing some aluminum black and a few different colors of dye oxide patina (brown, red, blue) from Sculpt Nouveau and playing around with it on some scrap aluminum. It would be easy to dye/weather the end cap red, get a scorched and worn black body, get that brownish hue on the exposed metal parts, and pull off the heat staining on the emitter methinks. Having real patina and oxidation on the saber to me would just add to the whole effect. Perhaps I will be the guinea pig and report back to y'all on this...
Lutts
Active Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
I just picked up some aluminum black for this, was going to to darken it, weather it and then buff it similar to a solos hold vid on youtube, I think I'm going to give anodizing a try too for the end cap...I'm not a fan of paint, I'd prefer to keep the metal feel of it rather than cover it up.
I've tested it on a couple of scraps with mixed results so I'm not sure whether to use it or not. I'd love to see your results when we get our hands on this.
I just picked up some aluminum black for this, was going to to darken it, weather it and then buff it similar to a solos hold vid on youtube, I think I'm going to give anodizing a try too for the end cap...I'm not a fan of paint, I'd prefer to keep the metal feel of it rather than cover it up.
I've tested it on a couple of scraps with mixed results so I'm not sure whether to use it or not. I'd love to see your results when we get our hands on this.
ZahcStarKiller
Active Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
Bingo. Thats pretty much what I am planning on doing. I also watched Aaron's video, and that's where I first heard of Sculpt Nouveau. I am going to order a handful of different stains and patinas and play around with it. I will definitely share my results. I will place the order later today and get some results before this saber ships. Hopefully.
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
I just sent a PM inquiring if the quill ions could be cut in steel. I'm not familiar with Al oxidizing this way. I've seen steel and titanium produce this effect especially tailpipes on motorbikes. Anodizing in color yes. Just did a quick search on the Sculpt Noveau and it looks like the dyes are also intended for steel + heat. Warning you do not want to heat up AL. Maybe I missed Sculpts other dye options for AL.
Ultimately, I would prefer a steel solution just for the quillion's and temper for the color.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
I just sent a PM inquiring if the quill ions could be cut in steel. I'm not familiar with Al oxidizing this way. I've seen steel and titanium produce this effect especially tailpipes on motorbikes. Anodizing in color yes. Just did a quick search on the Sculpt Noveau and it looks like the dyes are also intended for steel + heat. Warning you do not want to heat up AL. Maybe I missed Sculpts other dye options for AL.
Ultimately, I would prefer a steel solution just for the quillion's and temper for the color.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
dday
Sr Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
The length, I'm not sure on the inside, Scott will have to answer since he has the proto. The inside is consistent from top to bottom though.
I'm thinking it's too late to work steel, since we're very close to production, but it could be an option.
The length, I'm not sure on the inside, Scott will have to answer since he has the proto. The inside is consistent from top to bottom though.
I'm thinking it's too late to work steel, since we're very close to production, but it could be an option.
ZahcStarKiller
Active Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
The A14 however is Birchwood Casey aluminum black. Nothing new there. Here's a Link to that Dye oxide patina, in the pictures there is an example of a gorgeous blue worked into hot aluminum. I'm thinking a bit of this in blue and purple and a fine brush could accomplish that heat stained look... http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=38&category=6
Oh I get you, I know aluminum doesn't warn you before going molten, it just goes. Lol. However, some of that SN stuff, like the dye oxide, works as a general patina with a strong dye and reportedly works great on aluminum. Similar to dye for anodizing. It would bite into the surface of the aluminum a bit and create that blue and purple streak you see on the quillions. I'm not sure of the chemical makeup, but apparently it works. They also recommend applying a bit of heat, and say it works best between 180 and 200 degrees.
The A14 however is Birchwood Casey aluminum black. Nothing new there. Here's a Link to that Dye oxide patina, in the pictures there is an example of a gorgeous blue worked into hot aluminum. I'm thinking a bit of this in blue and purple and a fine brush could accomplish that heat stained look... http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=38&category=6
ender9492
Active Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
I plan to have the body professionally anodized with some sort of black, similar to the handles in the following picture:
I'll probably be getting the pommel anodized in a dark red, since that'll probably match the screen used ones the best.
The anodizing should hold up a bit better to abuse than a powder coat... Though I'm not sure I'll be dueling with this hilt. This may be the heirloom on the mantle...
I plan to have the body professionally anodized with some sort of black, similar to the handles in the following picture:
I'll probably be getting the pommel anodized in a dark red, since that'll probably match the screen used ones the best.
The anodizing should hold up a bit better to abuse than a powder coat... Though I'm not sure I'll be dueling with this hilt. This may be the heirloom on the mantle...
ZahcStarKiller
Active Member
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
You know, I thought about anodizing too, then taking steel wool to it for some weathering, hitting the new exposed metal with some aluminum black, and going from there. The hero has a weathered but polished sheen, which I may be able to accomplish with the clear coat patina sealer. If you end up getting a quote for the anodizing, would you please let me know what you find? I'm still interested in possibly having the end cap anodized. That sure is a nice color you posted there.
You know, I thought about anodizing too, then taking steel wool to it for some weathering, hitting the new exposed metal with some aluminum black, and going from there. The hero has a weathered but polished sheen, which I may be able to accomplish with the clear coat patina sealer. If you end up getting a quote for the anodizing, would you please let me know what you find? I'm still interested in possibly having the end cap anodized. That sure is a nice color you posted there.
Re: Kylo Ren CNC aluminium ultra accurate Saber
There are clear Ano's however I'm not sure how that would effect a patina. I suppose doing some test pieces to build confidence will get it. I probably would try polishing the clear sealer first.
One other note about Anodizing if you go this route. It's more of a chemically bonded adhesion vs paint. You can break an anodized surface, but it's much harder and less forgiving. Also specific colors are much harder to achieve. If you have for instance a very specific red color your trying to achieve ie Pantone color you may be doing a lot of trial and error to get that specific color. If close enough works for you or there's a specific ano red that a vendor supplies that might be just good enough. Just FYI in case your thinking about weathering also. I think paint could be the most forgiving especially if you need to re-paint or address some areas again.
Anodizing is more of a commitment and much harder to go back plus at a micron level will become a part of the AL so stripping or breaking an Ano gets into the base material. Sometimes the Ano isn't the smoothest finish. You can get a very subtle orange peel effect on the surface. This might be what your looking for and on a weathered piece it might be just fine. I'm thinking for myself if I were to go with an Ano I might just use it on the pommel bit, but only if I could nail the color and that's where I know I could absolutely nail it paint.
I'm sure there are some folks with more experience that could add their two cents. Just offering my experience. Hope that helps.
There are clear Ano's however I'm not sure how that would effect a patina. I suppose doing some test pieces to build confidence will get it. I probably would try polishing the clear sealer first.
One other note about Anodizing if you go this route. It's more of a chemically bonded adhesion vs paint. You can break an anodized surface, but it's much harder and less forgiving. Also specific colors are much harder to achieve. If you have for instance a very specific red color your trying to achieve ie Pantone color you may be doing a lot of trial and error to get that specific color. If close enough works for you or there's a specific ano red that a vendor supplies that might be just good enough. Just FYI in case your thinking about weathering also. I think paint could be the most forgiving especially if you need to re-paint or address some areas again.
Anodizing is more of a commitment and much harder to go back plus at a micron level will become a part of the AL so stripping or breaking an Ano gets into the base material. Sometimes the Ano isn't the smoothest finish. You can get a very subtle orange peel effect on the surface. This might be what your looking for and on a weathered piece it might be just fine. I'm thinking for myself if I were to go with an Ano I might just use it on the pommel bit, but only if I could nail the color and that's where I know I could absolutely nail it paint.
I'm sure there are some folks with more experience that could add their two cents. Just offering my experience. Hope that helps.
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