Fullcock arrival
Ha, finally. Now straight on my display wall with you.
Ha, finally. Now straight on my display wall with you.
Cheap PKD (Water Gun)
- Thread starter Fett_Ish
- Start date
renegadecow
Active Member
Good to see at least one place is shipping these out in a proper box!
No doubt, it was well packed for sure. And I just noticed the "Made in China" on the receiver instead of "Made in Austria", heh.
Someone on the rpf Facebook group listed one for $120....good Lord. Looks like it was already deleted though.
Fettbat
Active Member
Did you wind up trying this out?
Kylo1
Sr Member
I haven't decided what to do for the best yet but I think I will experiment with the resin first as this would give more weight. Once I start on the modding, I will keep updating on here
Anyone else who is considering "weighting" the blaster, please post your findings on here so we can see which way is best
Fettbat
Active Member
I haven't decided what to do for the best yet but I think I will experiment with the resin first as this would give more weight. Once I start on the modding, I will keep updating on here
Anyone else who is considering "weighting" the blaster, please post your findings on here so we can see which way is best
I got a spare BR, think I'll run out to the hardware store and see what I can find. I'll keep posted!
Kylo1
Sr Member
Fettbat
Active Member
Just gave it a shot (opted not to try it on the BR but on a cheapo water pistol that as laying around). It's a tremendous pain, it's possible maybe? But the stuff I was using (Lexel Clear) is incredibly viscous and just winds up pooling around the entry point. Now I haven't done -that- much caulking so it's entirely possible I'm doing it wrong but you don't have a lot of control over what gets filled in and what doesn't so it might not be worth the risk. Especially if you only have one BR laying around.
Kylo1
Sr Member
Thanks for letting me know so quickly Fettbat. I am not great at caulking myself so I may still go with the original layering of resin....unless another solution presents itself of course. As I only have one BR, I don't wanna mess it up!!
TheMonSSter
New Member
to add weight to my prop guns, I have always used elmers glue in stages with Lead Shot or BB's. Sometimes rolls of Penny's in Nerf Guns. But everything I have made has always been opaque plastic or painted. Not sure how it would look with the amber grips. I plan on painting one of my Silver/Blue ones with a wood grip. I will fill it with elmers and see if it dries translucent. I might try the clear elmers in the Grip.
Candykiller
Well-Known Member
Something to bear in mind - the grip area is a bit of a maze of different compartments, and even with very runny clear resin, it was quite tricky filling each segment. You have to twist the blaster around in all directions to make sure the resin runs into each segment. If you were to try using a thicker fluid, I'm not sure that it would work. It would probably just get to the first “junction” and clog up.
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Fettbat
Active Member
Yea that's what I was noticing with the sealant, the first sign of resistance it just bunches up. I think resin would be the superior choice. But for those who have never used it or are working on a budget there's probably another way. I like the clear elmers idea as a quick cheap alternative and might give that a try soon.
Also I dig the paint job on yours man, very sharp.
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Amazing work being done on these. Congrats to you all. I'd pick one up but they seem difficult to find.
Just a suggestion on the filler idea.
Ive used Liquid nails in the past and it's quite runny out of the tube, then hardens up. Hopefully that haven't changed the formula.
Just my two cents.
Just a suggestion on the filler idea.
Ive used Liquid nails in the past and it's quite runny out of the tube, then hardens up. Hopefully that haven't changed the formula.
Just my two cents.
wayouteast
Sr Member
Well, with a combination of extra-fine razor saw, a Dremel with a fine saw blade and extreme fear I have managed to get my blaster apart with little or no damage to the halves! It's NOT easy and requires quite a lot of prising and hoping for the best, particularly around the top of the grips and the triggers. Needs a bit of clean up around the cut edge still, but I'm pretty confident that it'll go back together fine and with a bit of filling and sanding will be perfect again - there was no visible cracking and most of the detail is either retained or can be re-done.
I've started playing with the location of the innards. My original plan for the electronics and battery access was to have the magazine removable and held in place with small magnets. But I'm inclining now to keeping the magazine intact (it'll be REALLY hard to cut it out without damaging the small detail there) and running the 7 LEDs from a PP3 9v battery in the handle, accessed through the butt plate, as that's a far easier structure to detach from the gun and have removable.
I'm going to be using lead to add weight. I've got a few ingots lying around and will just chop them up and epoxy them in place wherever I can fit them. It's a pity that the battery will be going in the handgrip as that would be an ideal place for the biggest ingot! But I'm sure I can find room for around 1Kg of weighting somewhere, I also want to try and mimic as best I can the structure that's barely visible through the grips. Haven't quite worked out how that will all work around the battery / weights yet!
But it's on the way. The big risk was getting it apart, so now that's done everything else is doable, I think, with a bit of experimentation! Haven't even thought about painting yet so you guys are all way ahead of me!
I've started playing with the location of the innards. My original plan for the electronics and battery access was to have the magazine removable and held in place with small magnets. But I'm inclining now to keeping the magazine intact (it'll be REALLY hard to cut it out without damaging the small detail there) and running the 7 LEDs from a PP3 9v battery in the handle, accessed through the butt plate, as that's a far easier structure to detach from the gun and have removable.
I'm going to be using lead to add weight. I've got a few ingots lying around and will just chop them up and epoxy them in place wherever I can fit them. It's a pity that the battery will be going in the handgrip as that would be an ideal place for the biggest ingot! But I'm sure I can find room for around 1Kg of weighting somewhere, I also want to try and mimic as best I can the structure that's barely visible through the grips. Haven't quite worked out how that will all work around the battery / weights yet!
But it's on the way. The big risk was getting it apart, so now that's done everything else is doable, I think, with a bit of experimentation! Haven't even thought about painting yet so you guys are all way ahead of me!
Here's mine to throw in the ring:
Fettbat
Active Member
Well, with a combination of extra-fine razor saw, a Dremel with a fine saw blade and extreme fear I have managed to get my blaster apart with little or no damage to the halves! It's NOT easy and requires quite a lot of prising and hoping for the best, particularly around the top of the grips and the triggers. Needs a bit of clean up around the cut edge still, but I'm pretty confident that it'll go back together fine and with a bit of filling and sanding will be perfect again - there was no visible cracking and most of the detail is either retained or can be re-done.
View attachment 753055
I've started playing with the location of the innards. My original plan for the electronics and battery access was to have the magazine removable and held in place with small magnets. But I'm inclining now to keeping the magazine intact (it'll be REALLY hard to cut it out without damaging the small detail there) and running the 7 LEDs from a PP3 9v battery in the handle, accessed through the butt plate, as that's a far easier structure to detach from the gun and have removable.
I'm going to be using lead to add weight. I've got a few ingots lying around and will just chop them up and epoxy them in place wherever I can fit them. It's a pity that the battery will be going in the handgrip as that would be an ideal place for the biggest ingot! But I'm sure I can find room for around 1Kg of weighting somewhere, I also want to try and mimic as best I can the structure that's barely visible through the grips. Haven't quite worked out how that will all work around the battery / weights yet!
View attachment 753056
But it's on the way. The big risk was getting it apart, so now that's done everything else is doable, I think, with a bit of experimentation! Haven't even thought about painting yet so you guys are all way ahead of me!
Cool cool cool cool, I'm pretty jealous you got yours open. I was not early brave enough to try it. Very excited to see how this turns out!
Candykiller
Well-Known Member
Nice work taking it apart! It’s interesting seeing the inside of the grip area, it felt like there were more plastic dividing walls in there when i filled mine with resin. It must have just been the top area that was tricky to get the resin to flow into. It’s useful to get a sense of the layout of the inside for my next attempt at resin pouring. (I have another water gun in the post)
Good luck with the rest of your build.
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You are a true trail-blazer sir! You've done a man's work.
