Chavant Clay help!?!

[SUPERprops]

Okay I'm about to order alot of clay(40lbs-50lbs), but what kind should I get? Chavant NSP Med. or Hard(should I even get chavant?), and what is the best website to order from(I live in SoCal). It's gonna be used for making bust and other props in that area.


Thanks,
Superprops

 

[zorg]

i've been using medium for years but have started buying soft, the clay is a real pain when its cold (in north scotland)

maybe not a problem in socal :unsure

why not get a block of each first to try before buying that much

-z

 

[propologist]

I think Howard is the Chavant guru...but i have always wondered the same thing. Although I think WED clay might be a way to go to

 

[SUPERprops]

i've been using medium for years but have started buying soft, the clay is a real pain when its cold (in north scotland)

maybe not a problem in socal :unsure

why not get a block of each first to try before buying that much

-z

yeah, the only time it's cold here is about 20 random days of the year(and it's still high 40's F.:lol) The reason why I don't want to order a few blocks is because shipping cost alot and I don't have the money(im getting 40lbs cuz I bet my Dad I could beat him in a running race up Mt.baldy(8 miles), and I won my prize is a 40lb case of clay)

 

[skynet]

I'm not a pro sculptor bit maybe that helps since I do silicone appliances often, espacially for halloween:

Chavant NSP hard is a really firm grade...of course it holds detail very well espacially when you sculpt very fine detail like pore texture or wrinkles, but the other grades of Chavant clay are as good as the hard one when it comes to details.

Chavant NSP medium was the clay I worked most with. It's not that hard but not that soft...just in the middle.

Chavant NSP soft was a little bit too soft for me when scultping small appliances...it didn't have that rigidity.

What I use since last year is Chavant Le beau touché. It's a bit different than the other three and has a really nice texture when working with it. It holds detail very well and is easy to manipulate.

I think it depents on what you want to sculpt. You can't make quick changes when working with Chavant but it's possible with WED. When sculpting large pieces or busts I would take WED clay as a beginner. You can change your mind during sculpting on the design more quickly and it is easyier to work with although I don't know any methods of texturing the stuff except very raw detailing.

Just place a bit of Chavant clay under a lamp when sculpting so it's kept warm all the time so it is better to slap the stuff on or sculpt with it.

That's all the experience I have with this stuff...hope that helps a bit.

 

[SUPERprops]

^ I'm not gonna order wed clay because I got a ton of klean klay(it's like it and way to soft), and I want some good hard clay that I can mold easly without ruining my sculpt.

 

[juno]

I use Chavant's Le Beau Touché as well.

 

[Hecubus114]

between the 2 def get med.

 

[SUPERprops]

Thanks,
Two more Questions, Chavant NSP never dries out, right?

and is Chavant Le Beau Touché super tacky, soft, and flexy?

 

[Garthok]

I have very limited experience sculpting. But have tried both the Medium and hard. Like you I had used Klean Klay to sculpt with. And that was the only clay I had used since the water based ones at school. So I figured Medium would be just up from that. it's not at all, it's incredibly firm, and leaves fantastic detail. If they'd sold it as Hard I would not have doubted it for a second.

The hard is obviously a step up, but just way too hard for me. Also, no the NSP doesn't dry out. I have one sculpt that has been sitting around for over a year, and not dried out at all.

 

[itsalive]

Medium Grade Chavant

Buy a small toaster oven. You can warm the clay up real quick with those to build up your forms faster. Line the slide in tray with tin foil, so you dont have to worry about cleanup work.

Wear nitrile gloves when handling the warmed up clay. You can continue to wear them while sculpting if you want- since they reduce fingerprinting and prevent your natural skin oils from touching the clay. Latex gloves have sulfur in them and that will inhibit silicone curing if you ever plan to go down that road when you make a mold or cast.

Don't heat the clay for too long in the toaster oven or you will burn yourself. You just want to warm it up so you can meld larger pieces of it faster. I suggest buying a Dental Lab Alcohol Torch as well. You can squeeze it over areas of the sculpt to soup them up for texture stamping/reshaping, or you can quick pass on it for super smoothing/shining.

Something like this.

Amazon.com: Sunbeam 4slice Toaster Oven BL: Electronics

Also check out this skin texture sculpting tut at the the effectslabs.com
TheEffectsLab.com :: View topic - Sculpting detail in oil clay

 

[SUPERprops]

Thank you so much, Any trustworthy websites I can order from?

 

[itsalive]

call 1800 CHAVANT

Chavant, Inc. Internet Web Site

I use the NSP Medium Grade Color Brown/Tan. They can either sell directly to you or send you to someone in your area.

 

[Chewie15]

i've been using medium for years but have started buying soft, the clay is a real pain when its cold (in north scotland)

maybe not a problem in socal :unsure

why not get a block of each first to try before buying that much

-z

I'm in Zorg's boat, here in Colorado it can be 10 below zero, while the summers can get over 100 degrees! So I use what is best per season... as far as the firmness goes.

I also consider what it is I am sculpting, the 'soft' is better for bald subjects with little hard detail, but the 'med' is great for pieces that might have clothes or a lot of hair, etc... I've never used 'hard', it is way too firm for my tastes. I've tried Le Beau Touché but it's really sticky and can get messy too.

Just ask for some samples, most people that carry these products will send you some. Even Chavant will send some out.

H

Howard S Studios

 

[mrjenzy08]

I'm not a pro sculptor bit maybe that helps since I do silicone appliances often, espacially for halloween:

Chavant NSP hard is a really firm grade...of course it holds detail very well espacially when you sculpt very fine detail like pore texture or wrinkles, but the other grades of Chavant clay are as good as the hard one when it comes to details.

Chavant NSP medium was the clay I worked most with. It's not that hard but not that soft...just in the middle.

Chavant NSP soft was a little bit too soft for me when scultping small appliances...it didn't have that rigidity.

What I use since last year is Chavant Le beau touché. It's a bit different than the other three and has a really nice texture when working with it. It holds detail very well and is easy to manipulate.

I think it depents on what you want to sculpt. You can't make quick changes when working with Chavant but it's possible with WED. When sculpting large pieces or busts I would take WED clay as a beginner. You can change your mind during sculpting on the design more quickly and it is easyier to work with although I don't know any methods of texturing the stuff except very raw detailing.

Just place a bit of Chavant clay under a lamp when sculpting so it's kept warm all the time so it is better to slap the stuff on or sculpt with it.

That's all the experience I have with this stuff...hope that helps a bit.

Hey there quick question for you as you seem to know about the properties of the clay Im wanting to sculpt A mortal kombat mask out of clay whilst building the mask onto A polystyrene head..what clay would be the best and would the clay set solid or would I need to apply something to the clay like resin?? also how easy would it be to remove the clay from the foam head? much thanks if replied to : )

 

[skynet]

Hey there quick question for you as you seem to know about the properties of the clay Im wanting to sculpt A mortal kombat mask out of clay whilst building the mask onto A polystyrene head..what clay would be the best and would the clay set solid or would I need to apply something to the clay like resin?? also how easy would it be to remove the clay from the foam head? much thanks if replied to : )

Which mask do u plan to build? With WED it's easier to build up thick pieces fast. WED clay is not exactly the same as the regular hobby clay from which folks make stuff like small ash trays, cans or whatever (which is then put in a clay oven).

WED has a substance in it which stops the clay from drying out too fast. This way you can leave your sculpt under a plastic bag for a few hours without having the piece become dry and brittle.

When regular hobby clay dries out it also shrinks - not noticeably but it does!

If you use a polystyrene head I would do it this way:

Mount the head on something steady or use a lazy susan if you have one (just more comfy t o work). Sculpt your helmet in WED clay. This way u would have two benefits by choosing WED:

1: u can build up large forms more quickly
2: it can be manipulated much quicker and easier than the oil based clays

If you have your sculpt finished - seal it with some light coats of clear (any ordinary clear out of a spraycan works!)

This way the water in the clay is encapsulated beneath the clear coat which stops the water from evaporating so the stuff doesn't begin to crack or shrink fast that much.

Also, the clear coat acts as a sealer. When it comes to molding the stuff you can use any medium you want...except resins since they do not want moisture or water.

I think making a two piece plaster mold would do the job.

 

[mrjenzy08]

Which mask do u plan to build? With WED it's easier to build up thick pieces fast. WED clay is not exactly the same as the regular hobby clay from which folks make stuff like small ash trays, cans or whatever (which is then put in a clay oven).

WED has a substance in it which stops the clay from drying out too fast. This way you can leave your sculpt under a plastic bag for a few hours without having the piece become dry and brittle.

When regular hobby clay dries out it also shrinks - not noticeably but it does!

If you use a polystyrene head I would do it this way:

Mount the head on something steady or use a lazy susan if you have one (just more comfy t o work). Sculpt your helmet in WED clay. This way u would have two benefits by choosing WED:

1: u can build up large forms more quickly
2: it can be manipulated much quicker and easier than the oil based clays

If you have your sculpt finished - seal it with some light coats of clear (any ordinary clear out of a spraycan works!)

This way the water in the clay is encapsulated beneath the clear coat which stops the water from evaporating so the stuff doesn't begin to crack or shrink fast that much.

Also, the clear coat acts as a sealer. When it comes to molding the stuff you can use any medium you want...except resins since they do not want moisture or water.

I think making a two piece plaster mold would do the job.

Skynet appreciate the detailed response I really do have alot of time for people like you,
Im masking A mortal kombat 9 scorpion mask as it unlike others (which I can find A pep file to anyway) It has A brow piece attached to the mouth piece and the mouth piece does
actually have A pep so I may make that and resin it as I did with my subzero mask and then make the brow piece outta clay?? would that work could I bond A half made resin/clay mask?..or should I just sculpt the lot and throw myself in the deep end here besides I guess thats how you learn : )..
So if using this clear coat will it set mega solid as solid as if were casted out of resin anyway?? and would silicone still come away from it if I wanted to make A mold? I know theres sprays out there for this thing right? Il attach some pics for you to see if you dont mind..If you can help me through the process il make you A mask FREE..I dont take and not give..