UPDATE!! MOLD... DONE!
Alright, haven't posted much as I've been quite busy. So did a little shopping and here's what I came home with:
Let's celebrate by molding my helmet! 
First things first, here is a list of the materials I used:
- Dragon Skin 10 Fast x3 pint kits
- Silicone Thinner
- Thi-vex
- Silc-Pig
- Smooth Cast 300
- So-Strong 'Black'
- A countless amount of cups
- Even more brushes
- Tongue Depressors
- A deck of playing cards
- Hot Glue
- Cardboard
- Coarse Fiberglass Matt
- Liquid Polyester Resin
- Wing nuts, Bolts & Washers
- Aluminum Foil
- Most importantly.... TIME!
Let's get started!
*** It should be known *** This is not a tutorial... This is just what "I" did to mold my helmet. Nothing shown here should be regarded as "The Way" it is done. As this was my first go at molding.
Step 1.
First layer of Dragon Skin:
- The first layer is thin, very thin! The point of this layer is solely to capture all the detail of the piece to be molded. The layer is kept thin to avoid air entrapment, this is very important when using Dragon Skin as Smooth-On Does strongly recommend the requirement of De-gassing prior to use! Unlike Rebound 25/40 which does not and is more forgiving a material to work with. I mixed a small amount with Silicone Thinner to bring the viscosity of the Dragon Skin down to a more easily 'brushable' consistency.
This first layer, is the only time where Thinner was used.
Step 2.
The Second layer o Dragon Skin:
- The second layer is applied with no additives (thinners/thickeners) and it's purpose it to give the first very thin layer some more substance.
Step 3.
Undercut fill 1 of 2 and Key placement:
- This is not considered to be a 'layer', but is meant only to begin to fill all of the undercuts on the piece. (under the brim, cheeks, nose, etc...) A batch of Dragon Skin is mixed with Thi-vex to bring the viscosity up, it is then applied to the above stated areas. Material is also placed in a thin coat where the keys will be placed. Once curing of this batch has reached a nice and sticky state, the keys are applied to their ore-determined positions.
Step 4.
The third layer of Dragon Skin:
- The third layer is generously applied to further bulk up the overall thickness of the mold and is applied with no additives. (thinners/thickeners)
Step 5.
Undercut fill 2 of 2:
- The second undercut fill is to further back-fill all of the areas which have any remaining undercuts. Undercuts are a no-no, as if they are left unfilled they will cause the mother mold to not separate and can become weak spots when De-molding the silicone. I added pigment to this and all further batches of Dragon Skin with the sole purpose of being able to see where I am going, versus where I've already been.
Step 6.
The forth layer of Dragon Skin:
- The forth layer is to once again add further thickness and bulk to the mold. It also helps to further smooth out the previous undercut fill layer.
Step 7.
The fifth and final layer of Dragon Skin:
- This layer was a personal choice. I just looked at it as 'added insurance' and rigidity. The final thickness of the mold was just shy of 1/4" and heavier than I had anticipated!
... Love the color though!
Step 8.
Building the Mother Mold:
- First things first... the all too familiar Mohawk, this was build with playing cars and hot glue. I then covered it with a layer of aluminum foil. (Good luck to those who may try to mold... Nothing sticks to silicone!!!! Nothing!!! )
- I propped the helmet on one side using a coffee tin and started away with the glassing (]B]Respirator warn at all times![/B])
- Once cured, I did the second layer of fiberglass. This layer was tinted, once again so I can be sure that no areas are missed. Taking you're time when glassing will give you a nice smooth finish that requires little to no 'after-work' to knock down and or cover sharp or jagged areas. It's all in the application!!
- Lather, rinse, repeat for side 2:
- After a couple of hours of curing the piece is rock solid, I drilled the holed for the fasteners, then with a couple of flat screwdrivers and a hammer the pieces were gently separated.
- The de-molding of the silicone inner mold went like a dream! No cut seam needed, just rolled it up and off!
All that was left to do was make my first casting!
Here are the results!
I find it quite amazing to look at it once again with no paint.... It looks rather dull and incomplete next to it's mama!
For my first go... I couldn't be happier with the outcome! (for both the mold and the casting)
Below is a link to the video I made throughout the mold making process...
It is not a tutorial... I just decided to share what I have done.
Enjoy!
**** Smooth On Dragon Skin - First Time Making A Mold ****
Well that's about it for now, it's been a busy and expensive week! As per normal... An questions/comments/critiques... Always welcome!
Cheers all,
Dave.
