Can't find Tony Stark's sunglasses from Iron Man 3

Are these Initium Michas Voice from Falcon & Winter Soldier?
 

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Are these Initium Michas Voice from Falcon & Winter Soldier?
I think you are right, it does look like they are Micah's Voice:D(y).

The thick "squarish" frame, black upper half and especially the transparent blue lower section, really quite visible...
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We just need a better image. :unsure:
 
Finished messing around with my Oliver Peoples Sheldrake 1354/R8...
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Eventually found some brand new and boxed Gunnar Vayper Neptune (don't know why, but I've found these particularly hard to come by :oops:)...
20210405_171843.jpg 20210405_175256.jpg 20210405_175021.jpg

Seems my DIY "blue-ing" attempt on my placeholder onyx pair wasn't too far off after all :lol:...
20210405_175042.jpg 20210405_175107.jpg 20210405_172418.jpg 20210405_175123.jpg 20210405_175152.jpg

I suppose now I can use my DIY onyx pair for everyday PC/tablet screen wear. We all seem to be spending more and more time looking at screens - we need to look after our peepers!!:)
 
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Finished messing around with my Oliver Peoples Sheldrake 1354/R8...
View attachment 1443884 View attachment 1443885

Eventually found some brand new and boxed Gunnar Vayper Neptune (don't know why, but I've found these particularly hard to come by :oops:)...
View attachment 1443891 View attachment 1443892 View attachment 1443893

Seems my DIY "blue-ing" attempt on my placeholder onyx pair wasn't too far off after all :lol:...
View attachment 1443895 View attachment 1443897 View attachment 1443900 View attachment 1443901 View attachment 1443902

I suppose now I can use my DIY onyx pair for everyday PC/tablet screen wear. We all seem to be spending more and more time looking at screens - we need to look after our peepers!!:)
We're the Vayper significantly more expensive than
Finished messing around with my Oliver Peoples Sheldrake 1354/R8...
View attachment 1443884 View attachment 1443885

Eventually found some brand new and boxed Gunnar Vayper Neptune (don't know why, but I've found these particularly hard to come by :oops:)...
View attachment 1443891 View attachment 1443892 View attachment 1443893

Seems my DIY "blue-ing" attempt on my placeholder onyx pair wasn't too far off after all :lol:...
View attachment 1443895 View attachment 1443897 View attachment 1443900 View attachment 1443901 View attachment 1443902

I suppose now I can use my DIY onyx pair for everyday PC/tablet screen wear. We all seem to be spending more and more time looking at screens - we need to look after our peepers!!:)
We're the Neptune significantly more expensive than the Onyx? Great find
 
We're the Vayper significantly more expensive than

We're the Neptune significantly more expensive than the Onyx? Great find

Thanks man!! :D.
I paid $63 from ebay, which was a bit of a bargain, as I think the "going retail rate" for brand new onyx is around $70-$80.
I think I paid about $40 for my onyx pair, but they were second-hand.

The listing for the Neptune's must have just went active when I inadvertently spotted them!! o_O

I was quite happy with my DIY versions and from the IM collection point of view, was resigned to just accept them as Neptune's!!

I think the Vayper colors were maybe all the same price originally, it was just a case of choosing which color.

When Gunnar discontinued the Neptune color, they seemed to disappear completely, new and used.
I'm not 100% if the Neptune were limited editions, as there is no indication of this on the Neptune's original packaging.

I'd been looking for them not long after Age of Ultron's release, so thankfully, it's brought to a close a seemingly endless amount of searching!!:D
 
Eventually found some brand new and boxed Gunnar Vayper Neptune (don't know why, but I've found these particularly hard to come by :oops:)...
View attachment 1443891 View attachment 1443892 View attachment 1443893

Seems my DIY "blue-ing" attempt on my placeholder onyx pair wasn't too far off after all :lol:...
View attachment 1443895 View attachment 1443897 View attachment 1443900 View attachment 1443901 View attachment 1443902

I suppose now I can use my DIY onyx pair for everyday PC/tablet screen wear. We all seem to be spending more and more time looking at screens - we need to look after our peepers!!:)
I've been searching high and low for the Gunnar's - they are very hard to find.
I'm even considering painting a pair of the Onyx ones like you did.
What sort of paint did you use and how's it holding up? (EDIT - Sorry, missed the follow up post with the paint color)
Also - Is it me or do the screen used glasses actually have the darker amber lenses?

Cheers
Steve
 
Am I a bit of a diva for wanting these?

Because I won't lie, I may have a paif of these on the way
 

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Thanks for that. Is it a specialised paint?Did you simply remove the lenses and tape up the arms?

Thanks
It's not specialized paint, just PlastiKote.

To paint them is really not that difficult and a lot easier if the frame is stripped down.

The small Gunnar "G" logo "temple square" runs the whole show and helps tighten the frame front on to the lenses and also holds the arms on to the frame front.
20210406_091718.jpg
First, squeeze the arm section here, pressing together with your thumb and forefinger...
20210406_092923.jpg
This will remove the arm completely.
20210406_092848.jpg
The temple square will press out of the frame.
20210406_092834.jpg
Now the lenses will come out. Just take care as the frame sits in a groove that is cut in to the lens edge. The lenses don't really pop out, but rather the frame has to be very carefully taken off the lens groove until the lens has enough room to come free.
The clear silicone nose pads will just press out of the nose pad holders (Top tip (y): Make a note of which is which (L+R) as they are similar looking!!).

Now you have just the frame front to play with. :D

Very lightly sand the frame front with very fine grade sandpaper to create a key for the paint to hold on to.

A quick light dusting with a few coats of grey primer and it will be ready for the color.

The trick for spray painting something so small is MEGA light coats of paint.
It's not like spraying a car panel!! Haha.

It might test your patience, as it's almost human nature to want to load on the paint in one go.
By using extremely light coats, the paint is critically able to dry thoroughly between coats. Very fine coats will also help the overall finish.
I can't stress enough about using mega light coats!!o_O

If you are heavy handed with the spraying it will come back to get you later!! - The finished job might look okay, but when you come to handle the frame, the paint won't be dry underneath and the finish will be damaged. Even if you left it to dry for days, it still wouldn't be dry underneath!!
I learnt this the hard way!! Lol.

It may take you a few attempts to get it right or achieve something that you are happy with. You can always strip it back and start afresh.

The Gunnar "G" temple part, I painted this bit by just putting it face down on to a piece of masking tape.

Don't be too hard on yourself if the finish isn't perfect and expect to lose some paint when re-assembling the parts (this metal on metal paint loss will happen on original Gunnar paint too). At the end of the day, a 100% perfect paint job probably isn't really possible with a spray can, but you can get close with patience - even if you did get it 100%, as I said, there would be paint loss when putting back together as the parts (frame/lenses/arms/temple square) are quite tight fitting.

Hope this helps:cool:
 
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I've been searching high and low for the Gunnar's - they are very hard to find.
I'm even considering painting a pair of the Onyx ones like you did.
What sort of paint did you use and how's it holding up? (EDIT - Sorry, missed the follow up post with the paint color)
Also - Is it me or do the screen used glasses actually have the darker amber lenses?

Cheers
Steve
The paint is durable to some extent, but it will not stand up to metal against metal during assembly/disassembly. The original paint doesn't stand up to this either though, as the original black paint on the arm temple "pins" wears/scrapes off too.

You are correct that the movie lenses are darker. They are darker amber customs by Tanya, most likely with the AR coating. The stock original "yellow" would be too reflective for movie making.
I would have tried darker customs in mine, but the "cut in" lens edge channel/groove is beyond my skill set!! Lol:lol:

I think we had a bit of a discussion about the lenses on p.156. ;)
20210406_102154.png
 
It's not specialized paint, just PlastiKote.

To paint them is really not that difficult and a lot easier if the frame is stripped down.

The small Gunnar "G" logo "temple square" runs the whole show and helps tighten the frame front on to the lenses and also holds the arms on to the frame front.
View attachment 1444054
First, squeeze the arm section here, pressing together with your thumb and forefinger...
View attachment 1444055
This will remove the arm completely.
View attachment 1444058
The temple square will press out of the frame.
View attachment 1444057
Now the lenses will come out. Just take care as the frame sits in a groove that is cut in to the lens edge. The lenses don't really pop out, but rather the frame has to be very carefully taken off the lens groove until the lens has enough room to come free.
The clear silicone nose pads will just press out of the nose pad holders (Top tip (y): Make a note of which is which (L+R) as they are similar looking!!).

Now you have just the frame front to play with. :D

Very lightly sand the frame front with very fine grade sandpaper to create a key for the paint to hold on to.

A quick light dusting with a few coats of grey primer and it will be ready for the color.

The trick for spray painting something so small is MEGA light coats of paint.
It's not like spraying a car panel!! Haha.

It might test your patience, as it's almost human nature to want to load on the paint in one go.
By using extremely light coats, the paint is critically able to dry thoroughly between coats. Very fine coats will also help the overall finish.
I can't stress enough about using mega light coats!!o_O

If you are heavy handed with the spraying it will come back to get you later!! - The finished job might look okay, but when you come to handle the frame, the paint won't be dry underneath and the finish will be damaged. Even if you left it to dry for days, it still wouldn't be dry underneath!!
I learnt this the hard way!! Lol.

It may take you a few attempts to get it right or achieve something that you are happy with. You can always strip it back and start afresh.

The Gunnar "G" temple part, I painted this bit by just putting it face down on to a piece of masking tape.

Don't be too hard on yourself if the finish isn't perfect and expect to lose some paint when re-assembling the parts (this metal on metal paint loss will happen on original Gunnar paint too). At the end of the day, a 100% perfect paint job probably isn't really possible with a spray can, but you can get close with patience - even if you did get it 100%, as I said, there would be paint loss when putting back together as the parts (frame/lenses/arms/temple square) are quite tight fitting.

Hope this helps:cool:
Awesome. Thanks for that, absolutely perfect.
I might have a little summer project ahead of me :)
 
Normal People: Did you see the Loki Trailer? It looked cool.

Me: What knives are Loki using? I want them.
Did we get a clearer shot of Loki's sunglasses from the last trailer? Hm, was there any Initium frames?
 
I think they are Bottega Veneta BV1052-S 001 matte gold tone aluminium frame with mirrored gold lenses 52□21 145...;)(y)
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Plus, the super rare tactical cap patch...
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- UV400;)
 
Do the Cocktails ever show up in a gold frame? Got offered a pair at 120$ but I'm not sure if it's a color we've seen on RDJ. Should i get them? ( I feel like I'm asking the bartender if I should get another round...)
 

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