Burned up my new dremel tool

This is so funny. I just bought a new one the other day.

I thought I was the only one who went through these like underwear.
 
I've had a Ryobi since they started making them and it works as good today as it did when I bought it; I love it!! Highly recommended.

(it will probably crap-out tonight now that I've said that!)


Will
 
Good question. I bought a new dremel a couple months back. cutting some aluminum with it and it caught on fire. stayed on fire till I threw water on it...
Frak dremel!
 
my latest one gets so hot i have to wear a welding gauntlet to hold it, that can't be good.

i have a black and decker one sitting in a box waiting to get its first outing when the dremel bites the dust.

why do they get so hot?
 
I've been using a cheap Chicago Electric brand rotary tool for about 8 years. Bought it as a kit with about 20 tips from Harbor Freight for $8. I mostly use it to cut, carve, and engrave plastic. It gets hot, but not so hot I have to wear a glove. In the last couple years, though, it has refused to turn on maybe 5 times. It's strong enough to get the job done if I work slow and steady, but I can stop it with my fingers.
 
I had a dremel that I used for fifteen years and twice used to carve aluminum, the last project finally killed it, my brother in law gave me a Jobmate brand, it stopped after it got too hot. Then I noticed it worked after it cooled somewhat then would cut out at times, when it stopped again I decided to turn the plastic adjustment knob on the side with a flathead screwdriver and the thing came to life again. Is this the arm/brush for the motor? there is another on the other side of the body.
 
i got a black and decker rtx off the gf last christmas, it went up in smoke with a bang last week but i was using it to de-rust smoe gnarly steel wheels, thought it was great until that.
 
I had a dremel that I used for fifteen years and twice used to carve aluminum, the last project finally killed it, my brother in law gave me a Jobmate brand, it stopped after it got too hot. Then I noticed it worked after it cooled somewhat then would cut out at times, when it stopped again I decided to turn the plastic adjustment knob on the side with a flathead screwdriver and the thing came to life again. Is this the arm/brush for the motor? there is another on the other side of the body.


Yep. I would think that's the two brushes for the motor...
 
I work with a Proxxon FBS 240/E. It has always worked fine for me. I use it to carve metals and hardstone mainly. I highly recommend it.
 
I keep three Dremmel brand tools going all the time- well, ready. My bench has two ready with each a different tool- usually a sanding drum on one and a cutting disc on the other, but my ready rack of bits is standing near. I could not live without my Dremmel and my soldering equipment. I have had only one ever fail (in 43 years) and it was due to worn out brushes- I replaced the bruses and ran like new. I had to eventually sell it at a garage sale due to the new accessories Dremmel offers didn't fit. I guess they fell victim to their own quality system- the dang things just do not wear out so they had to come up with a way to make us buy new tools. I'm glad you got a refund on it. But, I would not hesitate to buy another one just like it.
 
I just took the dremel apart, cleaned all the contacts, still dead though.

I'm looking at a proxxon, I hear good things about them, that they put dremel to shame, I'm just a bit put off having to have a separate adapter to be bought desperate.
 
I have a couple of proxxon tools, pricey but they have some really good build quality. i think i may look at their multi tool when this dremel dies.
 
How long do you guys use your rotary tool/dremel before letting it rest, I've read of people using it for 5 minutes then letting it cool down before using again.

Weird thing about NY now broker dremel, is no sign that's its burnt out inside, no smell, no smoke and the brushes are in full contact, have no idea what's happened to it?
 
Before looking at a new tool, check the brushes and blow it out. It's amazing what a little cleaning will do. It sounds to me as if most of the problems here are because people are letting their tools gat clogged and stalling. The problem is that when you stall a motor the motor draws more current and cooks the windings on the armature. Long ago I worked in a motor shop and you wouldn't believe what happened to motors. Frankly though if you are using a Dremel hard enough that it gets hot enough to burn you hand you are pushing it way beyond what it can do and should switch to a bigger tool.
 
Before looking at a new tool, check the brushes and blow it out. It's amazing what a little cleaning will do. It sounds to me as if most of the problems here are because people are letting their tools gat clogged and stalling. The problem is that when you stall a motor the motor draws more current and cooks the windings on the armature. Long ago I worked in a motor shop and you wouldn't believe what happened to motors. Frankly though if you are using a Dremel hard enough that it gets hot enough to burn you hand you are pushing it way beyond what it can do and should switch to a bigger tool.

Agreed, take care of your tools and they will take care of you. :thumbsup
 
Before looking at a new tool, check the brushes and blow it out. It's amazing what a little cleaning will do. It sounds to me as if most of the problems here are because people are letting their tools gat clogged and stalling. The problem is that when you stall a motor the motor draws more current and cooks the windings on the armature. Long ago I worked in a motor shop and you wouldn't believe what happened to motors. Frankly though if you are using a Dremel hard enough that it gets hot enough to burn you hand you are pushing it way beyond what it can do and should switch to a bigger tool.

I hear what your saying but a bigger tool isn't always possible. I do a lot of delicate work with mine, 1 or 2 mm either side of the cut line isn't an option.I simply wouldn't get into some of the places. I cut a lot of gel coat and fiberglass which is pretty tough stuff. Guess I'll just have to put up with burning these things out.
 
I hear what your saying but a bigger tool isn't always possible. I do a lot of delicate work with mine, 1 or 2 mm either side of the cut line isn't an option.I simply wouldn't get into some of the places. I cut a lot of gel coat and fiberglass which is pretty tough stuff. Guess I'll just have to put up with burning these things out.

Ok, but try those diamond cutters that seem to be around for pretty cheap. I had to trim off some PC boards at work last year and those cutters worked like a charm. That was with a Dremel stylus, which is the smallest tool they make. Remember, that glass fiber is pretty tough stuff and the harder the tool the better off you are. That's especially true because a Dremel has no back up torque to speak of and has to run fast. If you still have trouble with that, see if you can find a dental handpiece. You need an supply of air and water but those things will cut through just about anything. If you do get one practice with something you don't care about because those dental drills have no tactile feedback to tell you when you are cutting. I found that out when I used the drill we had setup to do special work at another job to clean up a very bad resin casting that I was using to build a model as a Christmas present for a friend. Another reason to never buy a recast.
 
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