Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION

Along with GINO'S recently completed Yoda, this is the coolest damn thing to come down the pike in a looooong time. This won't be topped any time soon. Unless you're planning on tackling an incomplete DS 2 ala ROTJ.
 
Thanks one and all!

Mike - godhood? One could only aspire! ;)

Brad - not yet, but probably still will (and now's the time). My plan is to finish the two poles, then formulate a stategy for the rest, which will include some form of mapping/layout.

Sweet job Rob! Did you end up mapping the surface detail like we talked about before you started painting?

Brad
 
Very exciting to see this reach the detail painting stage. And, my, that's an impressive tool you've got there, Rob. You use it well, too. :p

Thanks for keeping us so well updated with text and photos. This is a great thread. Keep up the amazing work! :love :thumbsup
 
I'm pretty sure I'm going to lighten the north pole region. Its just too dark for me.

But what do you guys think?

My plan would be to re-mask, then do a heavy misting of the primary base coat. That would both lighten, and add speckle/texture.

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I think you're right. It does look too dark
and maybe it's just the picture, but it looks like your line goes out of flush to the right of the dish

rather then the masking tape, have you considered getting a square piece or styrene or foam core or whatever, and then cutting a circle in it, then lowering it down to the appropriate position, and using that for masking
as long as it's level, you'd have a nice straight line all the way around

(see illustration)
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just a thought...

or you could put your masking tape on, and use it as a guide to cut the tape
 
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Having used that method on smaller globes, I can tell you it's a nightmare to keep level. Unless you are an octopus. And I don't think Rob is.....

Assuming that the central pole-to-pole axis is perfectly vertical, you might want to consider making a large surface gauge. Something that can be adjusted to whatever height you need and is rigid. That way, you can place the base of the surface gauge on the same surface that the DS is mounted to and "draw" it around the globe. So long as the surface gauge doesn't change position, the line should be perfect.

Gene
 
Having used that method on smaller globes, I can tell you it's a nightmare to keep level. Unless you are an octopus. And I don't think Rob is.....

Assuming that the central pole-to-pole axis is perfectly vertical, you might want to consider making a large surface gauge. Something that can be adjusted to whatever height you need and is rigid. That way, you can place the base of the surface gauge on the same surface that the DS is mounted to and "draw" it around the globe. So long as the surface gauge doesn't change position, the line should be perfect.

Gene

:lol:lol I do have long arms, but only two of them!

Doing the latitude lines is no problem. The compass I rigged works beautifully and creates a perfect circle. It is large enough to do all the necessary circles on the upper half of the upper hemisphere, and I can make a longer, larger compass to reach farther.

But it is rigged with a pencil, not a cutting blade. So I drew the "artic circle" directly on to the masking tape, then hand cut the tape, which undermined my perfection on the circle a bit.

Using the compass on the southern hemi is a bigger challenge since I cannot insert it into the precise south pole due to the mounting pipe. I'm considering using the equatorial trench as a guide for the compass for the lower dome latitude lines.

Longitude lines still have me vexed.
 
I think a sheet with a hole in it would be more unwieldy than the big compass. The sheet would have to be leveled and the circle cutout would have to be the exact correct size and without any eccentricity.

The compass seems to be the right way to go. It depends on two things: an exact position of the north pole, and the compass angle being locked down.
 
Longitude lines still have me vexed.

Similar to the vertical band idea you've already tried, how about a T-square that references a perpendicular line from the trench? Ideally the T-square would be curved in both directions, with the head of the T wrapping around the trench and the blade curving over the surface toward the pole. Add some evenly-spaced markings to the blade and that can be a guide for the pinholes later.
 
Similar to the vertical band idea you've already tried, how about a T-square that references a perpendicular line from the trench? Ideally the T-square would be curved in both directions, with the head of the T wrapping around the trench and the blade curving over the surface toward the pole. Add some evenly-spaced markings to the blade and that can be a guide for the pinholes later.

Dude you're reading my mind! Been planning on trying that for a week or two now!
 
OK dirtbags heres the adjusted north pole... If anything I think I went too light this time! :angry Plus it was a pain in the ass!

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Based on the first photo in you latest post - I DON'T think you went too light. I think it looks better. But see how it looks different depending on the light you are using? Color issues aside (and I'll reserve that for when I see it in person), I think the tonal values and contrasts where you are now are good.

Gene
 
PH, you know I love your work...

admit it, you're having an internal debate about blasting the thing with primer, and starting over

but, actually, I still think it's too dark
I think you might want to shift your color palette down to the lighter side
your base color is good, but the variations should be more subtle

it looks too contrasty to me which kinda ruins the sense of scale
(hope you wanted an honest opinion)

btw... have you considered a laser level... the good ones can project a straight line, then you can mask as you like, and not have to worry about dragging your straight edge through the paint
 
I think you got the shade right Rob. The contrast between the grays on yours seems to match the contrast on the official pic - to me at least.
 
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