Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION
- Thread starter PHArchivist
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Darth_Hombach
New Member
impressive...most impressive :thumbsup
PHArchivist
Master Member
Decided I need to completely redo this section - just way too yellow...
vaderdarth
Master Member
You're killing me.
PHArchivist
Master Member
Won't take too long - couple extra days. This area is notably more yellewed than anywhere else on the model due to a way too heavy application of clear coat. Needs to be done (redone). When you key in on it in person, you notice a distinct color shade difference.
Doing it a second time will be much easier/faster that the first time through.
Doing it a second time will be much easier/faster that the first time through.
PHArchivist
Master Member
You can totally see it in the middle band. The first two vertical bars to the left of the dish were "fixed" (isolated and resprayed), yet they even have a single coat of clear (which DID yellow them just a tad, but you can't tell).
But the third vertical band moving left, you can see how dirty yellow it is, Then you can see that same yellow carry its way into the cityscape areas, where the light base grey under the speckling has turned light amber.
Its killing me too, but it has to be done.
But the third vertical band moving left, you can see how dirty yellow it is, Then you can see that same yellow carry its way into the cityscape areas, where the light base grey under the speckling has turned light amber.
Its killing me too, but it has to be done.
vaderdarth
Master Member
I'm sure it would distract you if you didn't ultimately do it. More power to ya Rob. 
PHArchivist
Master Member
I'm sure it would distract you if you didn't ultimately do it. More power to ya Rob.
That's the thing - some little "issues" here and there I've been able to move beyond. This one I have not. And when I reasoned out and rationalized the decision to redo it, I felt a wave of comfort and relief.
EvilRocketeer
Master Member
You are such a perfectionist. Amazing work. Absolutely amazing. Very breathe taking. It is nice to see some-one that takes their time to do the research and try to make it close to accurate as possible..
By the way, the tiny little dot in the third section to the left is off by a half mm..
By the way, the tiny little dot in the third section to the left is off by a half mm..
Pappy
Well-Known Member
Its nice,even when it sometimes really takes breath away for everybody who watches
Cant wait for studio photos too
:thumbsup
PHArchivist
Master Member
In this case its a bit more that just being a perfectionist.
Here's the latest pic in full (what the above images were cropped out of). Its a pretty big image, but look at it when you scale it back to fit the entire ball on your monitor.
Then look at that one area. Looks like my ****ing dog took a **** on it...
For comparison, look at the main signature vertical band on the lower dome (under the dish). See where it meets the blank equator? You can see even that vertical band is slightly discolored by the clear. But it is no where near as bad as the area I'm talking about redoing.
And yeah - I know lighting is playing on this image. The right side of the sphere is getting hit by filtered daylight (making it more blue), and the left side is under flouresent lamps. But the true grey of the base coat is what you see in between the "wilson hair", and the yellowing shown in the pic is accurate to what the eye sees.
Here's the latest pic in full (what the above images were cropped out of). Its a pretty big image, but look at it when you scale it back to fit the entire ball on your monitor.
Then look at that one area. Looks like my ****ing dog took a **** on it...
For comparison, look at the main signature vertical band on the lower dome (under the dish). See where it meets the blank equator? You can see even that vertical band is slightly discolored by the clear. But it is no where near as bad as the area I'm talking about redoing.
And yeah - I know lighting is playing on this image. The right side of the sphere is getting hit by filtered daylight (making it more blue), and the left side is under flouresent lamps. But the true grey of the base coat is what you see in between the "wilson hair", and the yellowing shown in the pic is accurate to what the eye sees.
Ooh yeah, that is a tad noticeable. Did you have it drying in direct sunlight?
Also, I vote that we make Kurt Kuhn drag his bluescreen supplies over and photograph the beauty when she's all done.
Also, I vote that we make Kurt Kuhn drag his bluescreen supplies over and photograph the beauty when she's all done.
PHArchivist
Master Member
You nailed it - Testor's Dull Coat. And I hate it too. Can you guess why!?
You can even see a distinct color difference between the entire lower dome portion that is just below the yellowed area. The lower dome doesn't look as yellow, AND the paint there is older.
Lighting reflects off the lower dome differently due the curevature facing down, not up. But its not a lighting illusion.
Don't think it was drying in the sun. I think what I did was used an exorbitant amount of clear to try to seal the silver vinyl stripes to the dome (which ironically were removed and painted on).
Further testimony to a gross misapplication of clear - look at the lower right cityscape - closest to the dish and the equator. Doesn't look as yellow does it? Well... Remember? I re-did that section once already! So it has less clear than the rest of this area.
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PHArchivist
Master Member
Here is a summary of my rationale in redoing this:
Since its a focal area, right next to the dish, I want to get it "right".
Redoing it will be a fair amount of work. BUT it will go a lot faster than the first time.
The hardest part was scrutinizing the reference material to get the geometry and line placement correct. And the ref pics were not great. Now I can use the existing pattern on my model and snap large, clear pics of it as new ref.
So...
No more running back and forth to the computer or analyzing less than perfect images. Should make the process go about twice as fast. I'll drag my butt out of bed at 5:00 AM on a Saturday, and dive in and not come up for air until its done!
The top two rows are the most yellow, and the bottom row (closest to the equator) is not quite as yellow and it has the most complicated lines. So I'll just do the top two rows to begin with.
Just to the left of the offending section, I used a darker base coat, so the yellowing is no where near as prominent. The light grey base shows the yellow much better - closer to spraying clear on a white surface. But against the dark grey, it doesn't show as well. And in the area with the darker base coat, I can MAYBE redo just the smaller areas within that section that do have the light grey.
Over all this approach should take care of the problem.
And then I'll go VERY light on the clear in redoing it, and if it comes out too "clean", then over time I can add extremely light additional coats of clear until it blends.
Since its a focal area, right next to the dish, I want to get it "right".
Redoing it will be a fair amount of work. BUT it will go a lot faster than the first time.
The hardest part was scrutinizing the reference material to get the geometry and line placement correct. And the ref pics were not great. Now I can use the existing pattern on my model and snap large, clear pics of it as new ref.
So...
No more running back and forth to the computer or analyzing less than perfect images. Should make the process go about twice as fast. I'll drag my butt out of bed at 5:00 AM on a Saturday, and dive in and not come up for air until its done!
The top two rows are the most yellow, and the bottom row (closest to the equator) is not quite as yellow and it has the most complicated lines. So I'll just do the top two rows to begin with.
Just to the left of the offending section, I used a darker base coat, so the yellowing is no where near as prominent. The light grey base shows the yellow much better - closer to spraying clear on a white surface. But against the dark grey, it doesn't show as well. And in the area with the darker base coat, I can MAYBE redo just the smaller areas within that section that do have the light grey.
Over all this approach should take care of the problem.
And then I'll go VERY light on the clear in redoing it, and if it comes out too "clean", then over time I can add extremely light additional coats of clear until it blends.
PHArchivist
Master Member
It be done... Masked off the section today and sprayed - it is not blank grey all over again... :unsure
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PHArchivist
Master Member
OK resprayed base grey, masked patter, re-speckled.
Now need to redo the lines.
BUT...
I was hoping to get away without having to do the first row.
Sadly, I will have to. The difference is just too great. Pisser that I have to redo the most complicated lines on the entire model, but this shot IS testimony to just how discolored it was.
Funny though...
The pristine grey of the base coat is almost TOO clean. Seems what is best is just a slight discoloring from the clear. Gives it a slightly dirty, real-world look.
Now need to redo the lines.
BUT...
I was hoping to get away without having to do the first row.
Sadly, I will have to. The difference is just too great. Pisser that I have to redo the most complicated lines on the entire model, but this shot IS testimony to just how discolored it was.
Funny though...
The pristine grey of the base coat is almost TOO clean. Seems what is best is just a slight discoloring from the clear. Gives it a slightly dirty, real-world look.
vaderdarth
Master Member
Phenomenal. Can't wait to see the new lines.
Wow... that really does put it into stark contrast how much the lines add to the thing... You're right it does look way too "clean" without the lines and clear... just looks off...
this entire project is awesome. I think that I'm going to have to start one in 1/2 scale soon Now that you've done the hard part and figured out all the geometry and such I'll happily "leverage" with permission of course.:thumbsup
Jedi Dade
this entire project is awesome. I think that I'm going to have to start one in 1/2 scale soon
Now that you've done the hard part and figured out all the geometry and such I'll happily "leverage" with permission of course.:thumbsupJedi Dade
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