Build: Luke Macrobinoculars (ANH Hero)

awesome! yes those will just fit on a regular small tab plug and make for an awesome and accurate green tab plug! I have basic plugs on my website for 35€ if you need. Easy swap!
 
I found one of these right angle cables some time last year and then got few plugs from eethan to swap the side plates . Then had to also buy a couple of portable TVs for the remaining parts, but finally got the complete mystery box assembled
 
Finally completed my macros. All known real parts, (one lens lacks the focusing knobs) with Portumacs lens plate/transition box and Supergreen props belt clip and mystery triangle. It’s been a fun and fulfilling (and nerve wracking at times) build. I’ve got a spare Exactra circuit board lying around so I may stick a quick reveal into the battery compartment in the future, but for now I’m calling it done.
 

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Finally completed my macros. All known real parts, (one lens lacks the focusing knobs) with Portumacs lens plate/transition box and Supergreen props belt clip and mystery triangle. It’s been a fun and fulfilling (and nerve wracking at times) build. I’ve got a spare Exactra circuit board lying around so I may stick a quick reveal into the battery compartment in the future, but for now I’m calling it done.
Wow, it looks perfect! Well done!
 
How did you fix the ibanez connector in place? Use longer screws and tap the eumig then just screw it to the eumig body???
 
How did you fix the ibanez connector in place? Use longer screws and tap the eumig then just screw it to the eumig body???

Thanks for offering these, Seneca! Excited to receive mine. Your post got me motivated to spend this morning digging into my mystery box setup.



I was lucky enough to snag one of the female pieces from Cantina_Dude's haul ... thanks to you for pulling that together, Dude! I forgot to snap a photo of the pieces before I painted them, but here is one of CD's, pre-paint:



After some satin black:






As far as the Mystery Box Male part goes, I've been seeing that most folks are opting to remove one of the face plates in order to mount the box flush to the Eumig body (with the added benefit of saving a plate) but I think I'm going to take a different approach, if it works out. When mounted to the Eumig with just one plate, the mystery box doesn't seem quite complete to me. Part of the "frame" of the box seems to be missing, when viewed from a top or bottom angle. Because of this, I'm opting to modify the rear plate to sit flush on the Eumig. I'm in the camp that believes the long tab faceplate to be more accurate than the narrow tab faceplate. I have a wide-tab, and multiple narrow-tabs, so what I opted to do was this:

Front of Mystery Box with wide tab faceplate, and screws painted satin black:



Rear Mystery Box faceplate, to be mounted to the Eumig body. I used one of my narrow-tabs for the backside, as they are more expendable and still fit the wide-tab (Honda) frame. I used some pliers to remove the metal push-clip, punched out the two little round, silver-domed pieces and used a dremel to remove the raised lip in the faceplate:



Here is a comparison of how my setup sits (left) vs. with the rear plate removed (right):



You can see that my setup sits just about one millimeter higher, and (in my opinion) looks better. The photo below shows just how little of a difference in height this setup gives, if you look at the raised-lip in the circled area:



Once all the pieces dry, I'll slap it together and continue to await Seneca's pin-plate. I plan to use the longer screws from the scrapped narrow-tab mystery box to mount the whole setup to the Eumig. The plan is to drill two holes in the side of the Eumig for these screws to pass through (from the inside out) which will thread into the mystery box through the two holes in the rear faceplate. Stay tuned for that!


On another note, after a good amount of fiddling with my macros for the past few months of no progress, I began getting some play in the Seagull knob's internals. I can't have that, so I opened it back up and plan to epoxy all of the internals in place. I also took this opportunity to notch/re-paint the B&H crossbar to allow the Seagull aluminum disk to sit lower (something I had passed up on, but came to see the need for):



Excited to re-assemble/mount that knob and be done with it once and for all. Thanks for reading, hope to post progress soon!

So, I have some small updates on my build, but first I'd like to share a discovery that I made today, which is that for enough $$$ you can actually purchase a set of what are essentially real-world, 3D macrobinoculars! Made by Sony, they feature 25X magnification with 3D, HD video feeds to each eye, extensive stabilization, and HD/3D video-recording capability. Pretty wild!



https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explor...eview-sony-dev-50-digital-recording-binocular

I'd love to get my hands on a pair of these. It did make me think, though .... could one combine an accurate set of macrobinoculars with two cameras, a smart phone and lenses from a google cardboard viewer to make a simple version of these? Probably not with the size limitations of an accurate transition box/viewer setup, but maybe for a custom build?


Anyways, updates:

I mounted my mystery box setup using two M2.5mmx0.45mm machine screws. These were the closest I could find to the connector's stock faceplate screws. None of the big-box stores had anything close (as expected) but Ace had some of these in their "miniscrews" drawer. I almost missed them. They didn't have any locking nuts in that size, so I just used two nuts tightened against each other. The screws threaded into the plug surprisingly well, making a solid connection. This thing isn't going anywhere, and if I do ever get my hands on the accurate green-tab faceplate, it's an easy swap/re-mount:






I received my mystery box pin plate from @Seneca. With a few twists and turns of the pins with some pliers, it slid right on. I might give it some satin black, but for now I like the gloss:






I finally mounted the small Seagull knobs. This was a PITA. I originally had hopes of ID'ing the thread on the knobs and tapping the Euming body for them, but eventually gave up on that. I decided to just drill a hole roughly the diameter of the threads and pressure-fit them. I used a bar-clamp and was cautious not to bend the thin frame of the Eumig. I guess the pressure was a bit too much for one of the knobs, as it's all locked up and won't turn, but the second knob still turns. Overall, I'm happy with them:



Next up: Painting/mounting the belt clip. Stay tuned!
 
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