BTTF Remote Control

I want the display led function 88mph to start from 1 then climb to 88 lifting up the right side toggle on the remote.I would like a diagram on how to properly connect all the wires to each battery and switch using all screen accurate parts.I would also like to know which 88 mph display with the black frame people are using it don't have to be 100% accurate it can light up red instead of orange.I want the circuit to do this

Electronic Board of Doc's Remote BTTF part 3 - YouTube

There seems to be a lot of information in this thread from the other guy's build. What information are you looking for?

Are you looking for information on how to build a circuit to make it function? What sort of functionality do you want? I know how to design circuits, so maybe I can point you in the right direction.
 
I found this site with information on some simialr displays:
ALCO MS-250AC Incandescent Display Numeric Readout | brian r stuckey

But it sounds like people are looking for a model made by Stanley.

As for making the display animate, the easiest setup that comes to mind is to get an Arduino microcontroller, and have it drive a TPIC6B595 high current shift register for each segment of the display. Of course this isn't something you can just wire up easily. Have to know the voltage of the display, measure how much current the bulbs draw, compare that with how much current the shift register can handle to see if it will be okay, etc. I'd also look to see if there were any chips specifically made for driving seven segment displays which could handle the kind of current incandescent bulbs need. It would be a lot easier to drive leds. Anyway, once you've got the right chips connected to the arduino, it would be a fairly simple program to write if all you wanted it to do was count up when power was applied. I was thinking you wanted something more, like wiring it up to the actual control stick on the remote to control the speed readout, or even sound.
 
Thanks for all the info bro but your speaking Spanish for me to understand lol,I have no clue about any of that stuff.Maybe a dummies guide?

All jokes aside I'm also wanting to know how to wire everything first and foremost
 
Do you have pics of your remote?
I have the Futaba remote as well as ALL the other screen-accurate parts ready to be installed, except for the 88.0 readout. I'm stuck on that part and I'm quite frustrated. Any suggestions you could throw my way just to help me with the 88.0 readout so Zi can finish it? I'd GREATLY appreciate it!!!

(P.S. This is a personal prop replica and I don't plan on making any to sell. I just want to complete this one remote for my BTTF collection.)
 
As for making the display animate, the easiest setup that comes to mind is to get an Arduino microcontroller, and have it drive a TPIC6B595 high current shift register for each segment of the display. Of course this isn't something you can just wire up easily. Have to know the voltage of the display, measure how much current the bulbs draw, compare that with how much current the shift register can handle to see if it will be okay, etc. I'd also look to see if there were any chips specifically made for driving seven segment displays which could handle the kind of current incandescent bulbs need. It would be a lot easier to drive leds. Anyway, once you've got the right chips connected to the arduino, it would be a fairly simple program to write if all you wanted it to do was count up when power was applied. I was thinking you wanted something more, like wiring it up to the actual control stick on the remote to control the speed readout, or even sound.

Perhaps easy for someone familiar enough with programming. But I'm MUCH more familiar with a soldering iron. And yes, what you mentioned is *exactly* what I'm looking for: for the count to start at 0.0 when turned on, increase as the joystick is pushed, and the readout to cap at 88.0 when the joystick is in the full "up" position.
The problem I have run into is the workable range for the joystick potentiometer from full up to full down is only a difference of 750 ohms (and remember, Doc only uses *half* that. He starts from the *center* position of the joystick)

At full down, the pot reads 1.98K; at full up, it reads 2.73K
Needing to divide the 750ohm diff. into 88 separate values for reading input gets my circuits into trouble. And that is *assuming* that the pot isn't noisy due to age, and that it outputs different values at each point along its journey.

Swift, some people don't speak microcontroller, I think that at the point in the conversation where that is mentioned, is when us hardware guys lose interest and the thread dies. For as much as the Doc Brown remote threads have been helpful for sharing sources of parts like STOP lights, switches boxes, labels, etc., who and where are the people being generous sharing code? My peeve with these threads is that half the links are now dead, and half the pictures are missing.

It'd be nice if in the 6 years since these threads started, we'd be further along than we are.

Regards,
David M.
aka McFlyDallas
 
You bet!

Rear Grey Box:
The grey enclosure is a Unibox 140.
140.jpg


Link: Unibox Standard Plastic Enclosures


9V Battery Clip:
The cheapo battery clips at Radioshack are wrong, this is the correct one:
105794.jpg

Link: BAT HOLDER,CLIP 9VDC


Knob in center of Grey Box:
The knob is a lot smaller then it looks.
104176.jpg

Link: KNOB,1/4 SHAFT,ROUND CONTROL

Hope that helps. :)

-Charles
Thank you!! i was searching for the knob info
 
Hey I was wondering if anyone has a source for the switches on the side of the Unibox...

Also, if anyone knows someone who makes the speed indicator faceplate and digits (does not need to be workable, just static).
 
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