BTTF Remote Control

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by MegaPrime33, Jan 5, 2006.

  1. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I was wondering if anybody had any info on the remote control that Doc used to control the delorean. Detailed pics of it would be great of it too as I am thinking of making this.
     
  2. starbuckcylon

    starbuckcylon Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Send me you email address. I have one or two.

    Jim

    starbuck@gate.net


     
  3. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sent you a PM. I'm hoping to find info on any of the found pieces that make the remote.
     
  4. y3a

    y3a Well-Known Member

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    I think it started as a Futaba Gold Series 6 channel Tx.
     
  5. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    With some searching, the model of the remote is a Futaba FP-T8SGA-P. The only other pieces I see are the red switch on the left, the stop led, and the, what looks like some sort of digital speedometer.
     
  6. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Can anyone help me out on finding what the red stop light is on the left side and what the counter on the top left would be? So far I've been able to identify the remote and the simple red toggle switch. I really would love to put this together but need the help, thanks.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Darthmagpie

    Darthmagpie Well-Known Member

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    I believe the "speedometer" is just 3 seven segment didgit LED that was mounted to a board and pop riveted to the controler. I beleive that there is an encoder chip that when you properly wire the leds to it, using the remote's toggle potentiometer, it will count up.
     
  8. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah, thats what I was thinking. Any idea what kind of gray board it is that they're attached too? Any idea on that stop light?
     
  9. Darthmagpie

    Darthmagpie Well-Known Member

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    I don't think that is a "circuit board" I think its a piece of gray pvc That the leds are "surface mounted" to. I wouldn't be surprised to see some shrink tubing over wires on the back going into a hole on the controler. As for the stop light. I work with thinks like environmental chambers and programable multi bath sink cranes and these are the type of contol lights on them. I would look for pilot lights on industrial control web sites like Allen Bradley(www.ab.com).
     
  10. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    After searching through a bunch of sites I was unable to find that stop light. Any more help on these parts would be greatly appreciated.
     
  11. Darthmagpie

    Darthmagpie Well-Known Member

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    A pic from the left side would sure help. You also said you found the switch. If I had to buy a pilot light, a switch , and a couple number leds I would go to the same distributor. have you tried digikey and newark?
     
  12. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I checked both of those sites and couldnt find the right pilot light stop indicator. Maybe I was searching wrong. I found what looks to be the right toggle switch at radioshack.com. Its a 12v lighted toggle switch. It looks like the right one anyway, I havent been to the store to check.
     
  13. DL4567

    DL4567 Sr Member

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    MegaPrime, contact this guy:

    http://bfcoulombe.com/remote.html

    His name is Bruce Coulombe and as you can see he builds BTTF props and sells some parts. Right now it looks like he hasn't got the remote control "kit" listed there (just the parts that attach to the remote) but he used to, and probably still sells it.

    Some time ago I remember noting that his number display is red instead of yellow/amber like in the movie, and that his stop light was yellow instead of red. You may want to confirm the colors of his kit with him.
     
  14. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thank you for the help, i sent him an email
     
  15. Darthmagpie

    Darthmagpie Well-Known Member

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    I am not sure if I am stating something really obvious here but I assume you have asked at bttfparts.com right?
     
  16. Gary Weaver II

    Gary Weaver II Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Mega,

    Sorry for not getting back to you sooner on the remote. I've never done one myself, but Bruce (Bfcoloumbe) mentioned above is a good source to go to. His units are pertty nice.

    -Gary
     
  17. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I just signed up to the site today. Waiting for them to activate my account. Thanks. :)
     
  18. Gary Weaver II

    Gary Weaver II Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'll get right on it :)

    -Gary
     
  19. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks Gary.
     
  20. MegaPrime33

    MegaPrime33 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Does anyone have any pics of the screen used remote, front and back? I really want to make this as screen accurate as possible and every little detail counts. Thanks.
     
  21. DANIEL160876

    DANIEL160876 New Member

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    Hello ! I just got my futaba and I am surfing the entire internet trying to get the red STOP light. Any clue or help ? what about the box in the back what does labels read on it ? Thanks everybody for your help.
     
  22. Maelstrom

    Maelstrom Sr Member

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    If you could find the right shape light you could probably print the letters in white on some waterslide decal paper.
     
  23. Gary Weaver II

    Gary Weaver II Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This my friends is a prime candidate for bringing a thread back from the dead. 2006? Wow...

    Alrighty here you go. I started one of these about a year ago.

    The Remote is a Futaba PCM FP-T8SGA-P - you need the version with the GREEN label to be screen accurate. However, if you can only get the red you can make a custom label to fix it like I did for my red one.

    [​IMG]

    With the remote you can get started on the LED Readout. In actuality they are not LEDs at all. They are a late 70s early 80s display made with incandescent bulbs. The original prop builder took them apart and placed film gels behind the lens to create the glowing effect.

    [​IMG]

    I got ONE original display from the original electronics master for the first BTTF Film and made a multi unit casting.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    With that casting in hand I made a custom circuit board. This is a shot of the earlier home etched board. I have since had professional boards made.

    [​IMG]

    The original Stanleys are a multi-part unit. A big part of that unit is the rear socket mount. This is how they mounted them to the display plate on the Futaba. I made these early ones from lasercut acrylic and aluminum.

    [​IMG]

    With the Stanley display worked out, I moved on to the STOP light indicator. The original indicator is a MOLEX switch.

    [​IMG]

    Any Molex will pretty much do the job. A limited number of authentic STOP's were located at APEX electronics a couple years ago. However, here in good ole middle of nowhere Oklahoma I had to make do. So.... I made my own. This involved making a new faceplate. I used authentic MOLEX indicators to get the fonts just perfect. From there I lasercut new faces from thin plastic, applied them to existing lenses and made some molds.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now that I had the Molex done, I moved onto the back. Thanks to some really wicked source references courtesy of BTTF.com's main archivist Tom Silknitter, I was able to figure out most, if not all of the details.

    The box is a Unibox model 140 enclosure. On that we add a slew of switches from Radio shack and an adjustment knob on the rear.

    As with most of Doc Brown's creations - the thing is slathered in Ebossed Tape lettering. There labels are about 98% confirmed. I remember there were one or two labels I wasn't 100% about, but they make sense from a functionality standpoint.

    [​IMG]

    This was about as far as I got before I shelved the project. I have two different friends playing around with actual electronic functions right now. When they are ready to wrap those up, I'll come back to this and see about finishing it up.

    I'm also waiting on the Blu-Ray set to see if there is more detail to be had in regards to the rear wiring and stuff.

    -Gary
     
  24. Maelstrom

    Maelstrom Sr Member

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    [​IMG]

    Are those 9volt battery holders on either side of the futaba label?

    Also...whoever may be working on this don't buy a new Dymo labeler as the letters have been made smaller on the newer models. I suggest checking ebay for old/"vintage" embossing labelers to get the right sized letters. I found this out whil working on a S-Mart Ash nametag:lol
     
  25. Jedifyfe

    Jedifyfe Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    And then I will buy a kit of this off you for my Futaba!!! Nice work Gary!
     
  26. Gary Weaver II

    Gary Weaver II Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Actually, IIRC the correct vintage tape labeler isn't a DYMO brand at all.

    Yes, those are radio shack 9V holders.

    -Gary
     
  27. Maelstrom

    Maelstrom Sr Member

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    Yeah there was another big name in the embossing labeler, but I can't remembr what it is. I have a Dymo and the other one here if I can search it down. Maybe that other brand was the correct one.
     
  28. Maelstrom

    Maelstrom Sr Member

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    Rotex, maybe?
     
  29. Onkelpsycho

    Onkelpsycho Sr Member

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    Maybe we can get good refenrence photos from you, gary...

    I would try to build one of these... Dont want to buy from Bruce...
     
  30. renesisx

    renesisx Well-Known Member

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    It's a ROTEX labeller they used for all the BTTF items. Took me buying about 50 labellers a few years back before I figured it out. A Rotex 880 will get you most of the way there.

    [​IMG]


    The main issue is the letter "Y" is correct on Rotex, but not on Dymo. That's pretty much the only font difference, so if you're only doing Doc's Remote then you can probably just run with an old vintage Dymo.
    [​IMG]

    The only thing I've not figured out is the spacing. On the Rotex 880 the letter-spacing ("kerning") is off and there doesn't appear to be a way to adjust it. So I have a pile of Rotex labellers to go through here some time next week to try and find the right one. You can still use an 880, but it takes longer as you have to manually wind the tape back between each character.

    I can see on Gary's replica that he appears to have used Dymo brand labelling tape. This is widely available. Harder to find is the correct red colored Rotex brand tape. You can pick it up on eBay, it's just not as common as the Dymo stuff.

    [​IMG]

    The Blu-ray release in October will finally reveal the correct labels on the back with 100% certainty. As Gary says - it's only about 99% certain right now, but that's because the HD copies of the film we have are pretty muddy. The Blu-ray is sharp as all hell, so it should be possible to finally make out the labels clearly once and for all.

    Gary - did you ever get anywhere with making green decals to go on the "red" remotes?
     
  31. Grey

    Grey Sr Member

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    I don't know, mine's pretty sharp. Is there a timestamp on the part in question?
     
  32. renesisx

    renesisx Well-Known Member

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    The HD versions are barely better than the DVDs. And I have pretty much every copy ever broadcast on any network, in original transport stream format, that's why I feel qualified to make that statement.

    The new Blu-ray is an entirely new world of sharpness. Only a month now!
     
  33. David

    David Well-Known Member

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    Anybody have any idea where you can pick one the remotes up still? Been looking as well as sending emails to stores but no luck as of yet.....

    David
     
  34. Charles Kline

    Charles Kline Well-Known Member

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    Finding the correct model is a pain, finding the correct Green word label version is almost impossible.

    Only advice I can give is to keep checking ebay.

    Good luck.
     
  35. David

    David Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for that. I guess I'll have to keep looking.... I guess these things turn up to often..
     
  36. Jedifyfe

    Jedifyfe Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That is true. I have the red version of the correct remote and I hope to get some of Gary's green labels for mine. Be prepared to spend about $150-$200 for the correct remote on Ebay.
     
  37. David

    David Well-Known Member

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    Hi Brad, that's not to bad, the only problem with eBay is they still you on international shipping!!! I'll keep looking out though, if any of you guys see one and could give me a buzz I would be eternally greatful....
     
  38. renesisx

    renesisx Well-Known Member

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    David: I found a couple in the UK when I lived there. Again, on eBay. Don't pay $150-200 for the red one. You can usually "Weaver" the sellers as I call it. Gary will explain the excellent technique I borrowed from him to do this.
     
  39. David

    David Well-Known Member

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    I look forward to hearing from Gary....
     
  40. Gary Weaver II

    Gary Weaver II Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Uh, there really is no technique. It's just contacting a seller and asking if they have a "buy it now" price for their auction.

    -Gary
     
  41. renesisx

    renesisx Well-Known Member

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    Basically the technique runs like this. You need to have a search running every single day. Check it every day. As soon as you see the item, before anyone has a chance to bid, get a message in there to the seller asking if they have a "Buy It Now" price or a price for which they would end the auction. Often they will - and it's usually a lot less than you'd normally pay.

    If they say they don't have a BIN price, then straight up make them an offer, say $75 on one of these remotes.

    The idea is to get the auction closed before other people start bidding and sending in questions and the seller realises he has a hot item that people want.
     
  42. Jedifyfe

    Jedifyfe Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sounds like a good plan. I might start doing this on all BTTF items I need. Thanks renesisx!
     
  43. Garthok

    Garthok Sr Member

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    Would that be the guy selling these on ebay? bfcoul....?
    I have been looking for one of these remotes on and off for nearly 2 years now with no luck. I have been tempted to just buy one of that guys remotes, because I had just about given up hope of finding one otherwise.

    So is here any reason not to buy from him I should know about? They seem very expensive, but I figured by the time I found the parts and imported them to Australia I would be close to that price anyway...well that's what I tried to convince myself
     
  44. Grey

    Grey Sr Member

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    Well a blu-ray copy in 1080p will certainly be better than the 720p rips floating around, but it's hardly compareable to DVD copy which is a much, much lower resolution.

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1244235/bttf-remote.png
     
  45. David

    David Well-Known Member

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    Ive found one (with the green label) the ladies asking for $125, is this fair price do you think?
     
  46. Jedifyfe

    Jedifyfe Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Make sure it is the correct number: Futaba PCM FP-T8SGA-P

    Be aware that there is another Green Labeled Futuba PCM with a different model number.
     
  47. David

    David Well-Known Member

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    It's a Futaba**8SGA-P TX, I think it's the wrong one?!?!?
     
  48. Gary Weaver II

    Gary Weaver II Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sounds like the right type to me.

    -Gary
     
  49. David

    David Well-Known Member

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    What do you reckon on the price I've been quoted?
     
  50. Gary Weaver II

    Gary Weaver II Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If it's a green label and correct model - sounds like a fine price.

    -Gary
     

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