BRRogers / Verity Cosplay / 7 Chambers - "MoM of All Heroes"

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Verity Cosplay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
My question was: is there a list of parts somewhere? Went through the thread and can't find it so it's hard for me to know if I'm missing something or not. If there's a list somewhere please tell us the post#. Thanks.

Lots of folks asking. I will generate full parts lists for both versions of the kits and post them soon as I get a chance. The lists are currently in factory order spec quantities vs a clean "this is a standard" or "this is an elite"

Pretty trivial for me to generate tho so I will try to throw one together for you guys tomorrow and post
 

JediJohn182

Active Member
Received mine today in Ireland but think I may have some finishing issues. I’d like to get some second opinions on as this, as it is my first saber and I’m not sure what to do. It came oily all over which I assume is just threading lube so I gently wiped it clean around the none threaded areas with soft microfibre cloth and noticed some flaws as I picked up each piece.

first off I’m not sure if I’m missing any pieces?
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secondly a number of pieces have what seems to be some tarnishing that a microfibre can’t take off and I’m worried it’s permanent?

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Mark P

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So I'm just curious, does anyone have any advice on making this into an ISYHCANL version? I would rather fabricate a second control box insert so I have both options instead of permanently altering this one. Thoughts?
 

Verity Cosplay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So I'm just curious, does anyone have any advice on making this into an ISYHCANL version? I would rather fabricate a second control box insert so I have both options instead of permanently altering this one. Thoughts?

probably the best thing would be to print maybe a plastic version of the canoe without the rail overhang? And then glue on rails to the top?

not entirely sure...
 

BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So I'm just curious, does anyone have any advice on making this into an ISYHCANL version? I would rather fabricate a second control box insert so I have both options instead of permanently altering this one. Thoughts?
I would recommend a 3d printed insert that does the same thing except has the rail section fully removed. The card can then be place directly down on top and the rails fit on the side
 

BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Probably the best thing would be to print maybe a plastic version of the canoe without the rail overhang? And then glue on rails to the top?

not entirely sure...
Js1y3rF_fzvpKUgJ7W5XSCqqex_ffaV3C3K9i4LAJvO2T6yvCw.gif
 

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Mark P

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm just looking for ideas, I don't have a 3D printer but I would certainly be willing to purchase from someone who does. I just like having options and the ISYHCANL is really the most iconic shot of the Hero from the film.

I love the saber as-is so I am going to try to do a separate piece because I do not wish to modify any of the awesome work you guys did. I may just forgo it altogether though if I end up with another Luke... been thinking about a TLJ Hero or waiting to see what happens with the Mando Luke.

Anyways, I have an aluminum wind-vane that I need to go paint antique gold. :)
 

Sieg

Active Member
I'm just looking for ideas, I don't have a 3D printer but I would certainly be willing to purchase from someone who does. I just like having options and the ISYHCANL is really the most iconic shot of the Hero from the film.

I love the saber as-is so I am going to try to do a separate piece because I do not wish to modify any of the awesome work you guys did. I may just forgo it altogether though if I end up with another Luke... been thinking about a TLJ Hero or waiting to see what happens with the Mando Luke.

Anyways, I have an aluminum wind-vane that I need to go paint antique gold. :)
Maybe you could track down an Anakin Starkiller if anyone ever sells one. It's already got a plastic canoe and the rails you're looking for.
 

Grigori

Active Member
It’s possible there could be a metal shaving in the thread that has lodged it in at the set screw or a buildup of grit from factory tumbling in the threads.

I would first use something like WD-40. Either spray into the threads repeatedly over the course of a couple hours or allow the assembly to sit in a container filled with it (just enough to saturate into the threads) for a couple hours.
Clean off the outside and If you wear rubber gloves it might be enough to help it move.

if that doesn’t work, wash it in warm soapy water then let dry (not Palmolive or oxi-clean that will cause oxidation)

(Remove the nipple set screw before trying this):
We are going to look at using temperature. Sticking the assembly in the freezer for a while and then dipping *just* the emitter cap in boiling water until hot. (Aka ice cold male threads working against Boiling hot female threads) Then trying (with a heat resistant) glove to untwist and see if temperature expansion/contraction helps.


PM one of us directly if that doesn’t work

Of course, happy to hear suggestions from anyone who has had a similar issue and resolved with success.

WD-40 did the trick thanks so much! Took several hours of applying it into the joint and a few attempts, but then like magic it opened up :)

The hole for the internal set screw was a bit rough around the edges with some loose grit, so was probably the culprit. Given it a good clean and will see about a little sanding down or something before it goes into use.

Thanks again!
 

BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
WD-40 did the trick thanks so much! Took several hours of applying it into the joint and a few attempts, but then like magic it opened up :)

The hole for the internal set screw was a bit rough around the edges with some loose grit, so was probably the culprit. Given it a good clean and will see about a little sanding down or something before it goes into use.

Thanks again!
5oy.gif

I am so glad
 

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Blastinwomprats

New Member
Super excited to have placed my order on this second run!! I started my search for an ideal FX ready, screen-accurate Luke Hero a few months ago, and when I found this project knew that it was the one to go with! I love the collaboration and effort that has been put into this hilt, many kudos to Verity, BRRogers, and others that have contributed and made it happen.

I did have one question: any idea on timing of releasing a chassis, either printed or a print file? I'm not in a rush to get an install done, but just curious as I'm currently deciding whether I want to do an install myself or outsource it. Thanks again for your work!
 

BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Super excited to have placed my order on this second run!! I started my search for an ideal FX ready, screen-accurate Luke Hero a few months ago, and when I found this project knew that it was the one to go with! I love the collaboration and effort that has been put into this hilt, many kudos to Verity, BRRogers, and others that have contributed and made it happen.

I did have one question: any idea on timing of releasing a chassis, either printed or a print file? I'm not in a rush to get an install done, but just curious as I'm currently deciding whether I want to do an install myself or outsource it. Thanks again for your work!
The first chassis I’ve seen so far put on market by RGV Custom Sabers.
Quality Custom Sabers and Service by RGVCustomSabers on Etsy

he’s literally working on the install now. (Facebook live link)
 
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